03 cobra alternator solution
- Thread starter Sajin
- Start date
Big 3?
bigger alt power wire with fuse, extra bigger ground battery to frame, extra bigger ground frame to motor
I read in a post where someone said not to buy a new alternator, but have your original rebuilt. They specifically mentioned the problem is the diodes are soldered in and after a while the solder melts and the alternator craps out. They said when you have the alternator rebuilt to have the diodes tack welded into place.
I only read that in a thread here in the HOW TO section where they discuss replacing the alternator. So, I'm not sure how well it works or not.
It was in this thread:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?182632-**Alternator-Removal-How-To-PICS-**
I only read that in a thread here in the HOW TO section where they discuss replacing the alternator. So, I'm not sure how well it works or not.
It was in this thread:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?182632-**Alternator-Removal-How-To-PICS-**
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I'm pulling a lot volts with all my extra electronics, I had the same issue with my alternator, I got pa performance that's been working well for about five thousand miles now. Very pleased with the customer service as I called with questions.
I think the issue is the heat the alternator needs to tolerate next to the exhaust manifold. I went the Lifetime Warranty route with NAPA. I think it is a flawed design and all will eventually fail in these cars.
I wonder if Ceramic Coated Long tubes help this at all with having less heat on the alt. Im sure the cast iron manifolds radiate like crazy vs a good coated header.
Well I have a rebuilt OEM alternator and upgraded 0gauge power/ground wires and only have issues after my Cobra is heatsoaked. When cold or cooled off it starts fine and charges fine (14+ volts) at idle and while cruising. When hot or heatsoaked it will have a hard time starting and charge around 12-13 volts at idle/cruising.
I am not running any extra high load electronics and the AC is not on when I crank it over. Same situation everytime I drive, the only variable is the engine bay temps. Still looking for a way to cool or replacement alternator that can take the heat.
I am not running any extra high load electronics and the AC is not on when I crank it over. Same situation everytime I drive, the only variable is the engine bay temps. Still looking for a way to cool or replacement alternator that can take the heat.
Same here. Mechman or Stock. The hotter it is the lower the charging is. My Mechman starts at around 14.2. On a cold morning it stays there. ON a 90 degree day ill be in the mid 13s.
LOL P49Y-CY....
I bought my coupe in 2007 with 27K miles. Did not change anything mechanical (except added a CAI and exhaust) and no issues at all (Coupe has 45K miles now). I just picked up a Vert with 75K on the odometer and the alternator is still going strong. However, I think it is an early build. It doesn't appear to have any pulley changes either and it is still going strong.
BTW: if and when my alternators go out I will be having them rebuilt, not buying anything from the parts store. I bought a lifetime for my DD 99 Contour. The alternator went out a few months later. I got another one free, but it's still a hassle to take it out and reinstall it.
I bought my coupe in 2007 with 27K miles. Did not change anything mechanical (except added a CAI and exhaust) and no issues at all (Coupe has 45K miles now). I just picked up a Vert with 75K on the odometer and the alternator is still going strong. However, I think it is an early build. It doesn't appear to have any pulley changes either and it is still going strong.
BTW: if and when my alternators go out I will be having them rebuilt, not buying anything from the parts store. I bought a lifetime for my DD 99 Contour. The alternator went out a few months later. I got another one free, but it's still a hassle to take it out and reinstall it.
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I'm new to these cars so sorry if this question seems dumb. Mine still hasn't fallen apart but I was thinking to change the pulley to see if it helps it last longer, would I need another belt and would it affect anything else? It's a ported and piullied car, thanks.
solution: buy brand new terminator off showroom floor. do not change lower pulley. drive for next 12 years, 118k miles.
disclaimer: this solution may not work for everybodyoke:
LOL, I don't understand all the alternator issues. My old terminator had over 80k on it when I sold it and the alternator was still original. The previous owner didn't beat on the car but he definitely enjoyed it (drag raced occasionally, and auto crossed it).
I wonder if the returnless fuel systems are harder on them, it seems like the guys that lose a lot of alternators are guys with BAPs....etc. I wonder if its harder to run that type of system vs just the continual consistent draw of the return system.
I would have to agree with you CJ. It seems cars that have been modified (BAP's or pulley's added) are the ones with the majority of problems. Like I have said my coupe has 45K and my vert has 75K, neither one of them is mechanically modded (except for CAI and exhaust) and no ALT issues here (knock on wood) LOL.
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I would only agree to an extent ... I think the primary issue with these aftermarket high output alternators is that primary positive and ground cables are not upgraded which ultimately increases strain and resistance on the system decreasing the effectiveness and efficiency. The upgraded wiring kits alone are not enough. For example, ypgrading the short ground cable from the battery to the front support structure is often forgotten about.
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