I'm having a bit of trouble with my cobra and figured I would ask here before going ahead with what the shop says. My cobra only has 61k miles on it and has two problems. The first is a loud rattle in the engine that can be heard as soon as you start the car and stays rattling while driving. The rattle has caused "concerns" for two shops I've tried to bring it to to have it looked at but besides running "codes" and pulling the belt off they are claiming its the motor and I need a new engine or have it rebuilt. I don't believe its the engine as its kind of odd no codes are coming up saying whats wrong, the check engine light isn't on and besides the rattle the engine drives just fine. It has no problems shifting, accelerating, starting up, etc. There isn't any smoke from the engine or exhaust, oil pressure reads a little more to the right side (I'd say med-high pressure). The temp of the engine is fine as its not over heating (doesn't go past middle). I have a 3rd person going to look at it before I decide what I'm going to do with it. The second problem and the main reason I brought it in was it started with a recent stall on deceleration. I've cleaned the MAF and AIC and it still stalls. When it idles with a cold start it stays fine at 1k, after driving around for awhile it seems to struggle staying above 500 and i've found myself pulling the ebrake to avoid hitting people at lights. Is there anything else I should look into for the stalling problem? As for the rattle issue does that really sound like it would be the engine?
01 Cobra problems.
- Thread starter Shadow01
- Start date
first off, the CEL is useless for the most part heh, its not always going to tell you when something is wrong.
And I am kind of with Double "O" on this one, sounds like a spun bearing to me. What was your oil level like?
You can test this by disconecting one COP at a time and see if the noise goes away.
And I am kind of with Double "O" on this one, sounds like a spun bearing to me. What was your oil level like?
You can test this by disconecting one COP at a time and see if the noise goes away.
+1 on the spun bearing. the cel would not run you a code saying spun bearing so you can't go by that....what part of nj you from?
ok first off the gauge in our cars sucks from stock to begin with... if u have a possible spun bearing ur oil pressure is not going to change... if u have a spun bearing ur going to hear the most god awful noise in the world it is going to sound like a really loud ticking noise... the worse it get the louder it gets... the pcm will not tell u if u have a spun bearing. the best thing to do is like the other guy said pull one injector harnes at a time... but have 2 peaple with u... put the car on jack stands and layunder neath it and listen... and most likely ur on ur way to a spun bearing... it happens to alot of peaple... i would have rather had a spun bearing that my moter shit a ****ing rod out the side.... any way good luck dont give up on ur car...
My oil levels was fine last time I checked and just checked today I was about a quart low, nothing that should cause a spun bearing. The rattling isn't a loud painful sound, it more or less sounds like someone dropped a marble or something inside and its getting knocked around. The 2nd place I took it too said it could be the spun bearing but he doubts it, he believes it to be a rod or lifter that is bad. I am a little mechanical and still want to test to see if its the spun bearing or not. Could someone post a picture or diagram of what im supposed to be looking for to disconnect? I believe I saw it but rather double check before just randomly disconnecting stuff.
Oh and for the one that asked, im in central NJ.
Oh and for the one that asked, im in central NJ.
I am no mechanic but, I would not take your car back to that guy. Your car is a DOHC design and you should not have lifters....:nonono:
Bad bearing will be knocking.
When the bearing spins odds are it will lock up not long after.
Rattle noise sounds more like timing chain tensioners or something IMO.
Meticulous with oil levels?
Been low, full, over full and real low.
Sometimes I waited till the light came on to add a QT between changes.
When the bearing spins odds are it will lock up not long after.
Rattle noise sounds more like timing chain tensioners or something IMO.
Meticulous with oil levels?
Been low, full, over full and real low.
Sometimes I waited till the light came on to add a QT between changes.
x 2 on the spun bearing...had it happen. mine started with a light/med rattle. when they finally went it sound like freakin freight train and would definitely stall out, sometimes wouldn't even stay started. you can do a quick oil change and check your oil for metal - take a magnet and run it through the oil you drained in a plastic pan.....pulling COPS are quickest, but unfortunately when I did it, it didn't uncover my problem - this is just another way to check....
if you got metal shavings, you can almost bet your rod bearings are on their last leg....new motor will be required....
don't drive the car unless you absolutely have to...... good luck man!
if you got metal shavings, you can almost bet your rod bearings are on their last leg....new motor will be required....
don't drive the car unless you absolutely have to...... good luck man!
lifter, lash adjuster...same thing.
It could very well be a chain tensioner, primary or seondary. Where is the sound located, front, back, side?
Last edited:
I will be going out and recording it with my mp3 player in a little bit as its being recharged right and and i'll upload it and post the link so you guys can hear the sound which might help a little. I'll find out where the sound is coming from as well (side wise).
In the meantime does anyone have a link or something so I know what these COP things look like? A few people are telling me its most like a scam just to get the most money out of me as the ford dealership told me 9.3k for a new engine, and the 2nd place said 6.4k to rebuild it.
EDIT: The 2nd place was an "authorized" ford repair places if that matters at all.
In the meantime does anyone have a link or something so I know what these COP things look like? A few people are telling me its most like a scam just to get the most money out of me as the ford dealership told me 9.3k for a new engine, and the 2nd place said 6.4k to rebuild it.
EDIT: The 2nd place was an "authorized" ford repair places if that matters at all.
Last edited:
rattle increase with rpm? And is it consistent or sometimes? If it raises with RPM i'm also going with spun bearing if not, something could jst be rattiling around under the hood
Here is the sound file I said I was going to record..there is a few seconds of silence at the start as I had to set the recorder and start it. I noticed it speeds up real fast at the start of the engine and then kind of stays the same..I did give it a little gas while recording and the clicking/rattling seems to remain the same.
http://www.uploading.com/files/HIOGWD2A/VOICE002.MP3.html
http://www.uploading.com/files/HIOGWD2A/VOICE002.MP3.html
i had a similar sound on my engine, it was a tick at start up but got quieter as it got warmer..... i waited and nothing happend and then one day i checked my oil level and it had lost 6 quarts so i said WTF and got some oil, shortly after that on my way back from ohio my engine let loose and dropped a valve into the cylinder and then thru a rod leaving me were im at now. im pretty sure it was a failed valve because it sonded like valve tapping and oil pressure never showed signs of being low and as i was driving down the turnpike it got worse worse then i was running a 7 cylinder 31V cobra engine. not cool. get your head checked!!
Nice with birds in the background on the audio file 
Btw, does a spun rod bearing damage the crank or is it just the rod that's history? I've also got some really small metal like ticking on idle but it goes away when I rev (or maybe it just doesn't hear anymore then). I rarely drive my car so I haven't really figured that knocking out yet.
Btw, does a spun rod bearing damage the crank or is it just the rod that's history? I've also got some really small metal like ticking on idle but it goes away when I rev (or maybe it just doesn't hear anymore then). I rarely drive my car so I haven't really figured that knocking out yet.
Just a small update. I pulled the COPS..well I hope it was the COPS as it had a little blue and red wire with a clip. I did one by one and started, the sound was still there. I haven't drove it much as I'm trying not to do any major dmg but I do have to drive it to one last place before I go ahead with the rebuild. I believe the sound goes away after the car is warmed up (would have to confirm that) and with the rough idle wouldn't it be the timing chain or tensioner? I know on some cars you can check the chain without taking anything apart but I don't believe its possible with this mustang.
EDIT: forgot to add tomorrow when I take it to the 3rd place I will also drain the oil and run a magnet like something said though it and see if It picks up any medal.
EDIT: forgot to add tomorrow when I take it to the 3rd place I will also drain the oil and run a magnet like something said though it and see if It picks up any medal.
Last edited:
Nice with birds in the background on the audio file
Btw, does a spun rod bearing damage the crank or is it just the rod that's history? I've also got some really small metal like ticking on idle but it goes away when I rev (or maybe it just doesn't hear anymore then). I rarely drive my car so I haven't really figured that knocking out yet.
A spun bearing will absolutely damage the crank and the rod. Depending on the amount of damage, they may be repaired, but if you have a high horsepower engine replacement is the only answer IMO. The sound I am hearing in the soundfile could be a bearing, but if it goes away when warm I doubt it. I would try to remove the serpentine belt to rule out a noise in water pump power steering pump or alternator.
Users who are viewing this thread
