As stated above, I was driving (a little aggressive) when suddenly the car revved up to max rpms, I shifted to neutral almost immediately and it continued to do so for about 2-3 seconds, a total of no more than 5-6 and I turned it off. Ever since then it has not started, I am completely unsure of what this could be. I’ve heard IAC could cause the issue of revving up, but would it also stop the car from starting now? It’s a terminator swapped motor into a 2001 cobra. Any help is appreciated, just want to get her back on the road.
Car revved itself up to 8k rpm’s , turned it off won’t start now, only crank.
- Thread starter Codie
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Check the throttle plate, sounds like it's wide open.
Injectors will not open if tps is 100% during crank.
Injectors will not open if tps is 100% during crank.
How would I go about checking the throttle plate? It looks as if it’s closed and functioning normal. I’m also getting fuel up at the fuel lines when I press the valve on the fuel lines during crank
edit nevermind
the position of the linkage should show you but you can always pull the inlet boot off to visually check.
WOT wont allow the injectors to pulse while cranking, fuel pump will still prime
I'm wondering if the pressure in the fuel rail is residual considering it went from WOT to off in a matter of seconds. Isn't there a fuel pump reset button in the trunk? Driver's side, forward of the tail light, behind the carpet, little red button... Worth a shot.
Even then without the throttle opening it wouldn't continue to rev.
No, the pedal was not stuck. Something electrical it seemed like.
Already checked this, the red button was already pressed inwardly. (Assuming that is on)
Pulled off intake and checked, linkage and everything is fine. Throttlebody opens and closes as normal.
Have you checked it for any codes? sure sounds like a mechanical issue to me, it shouldn't be able to rev without opening the throttle plates.
Op you’ll still have fuel pressure if the throttle plate is wide open.
Fuel pump and injector pulse are two separate items.
Sounds like it isn’t stuck open currently so that shouldn’t be the problem, just wanted to clarify what’s going on with a non running vehicle and a WOT condition.
So for a car to run, you need fuel and spark.
You can rent or buy all the tools to check these very quickly at an auto parts store.
Fuel pressure gauge
Noid light
Spark tester
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Fuel pump and injector pulse are two separate items.
Sounds like it isn’t stuck open currently so that shouldn’t be the problem, just wanted to clarify what’s going on with a non running vehicle and a WOT condition.
So for a car to run, you need fuel and spark.
You can rent or buy all the tools to check these very quickly at an auto parts store.
Fuel pressure gauge
Noid light
Spark tester
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
No, I don’t have a way to do so. I’d have to tow it to a shop and then pay their fee which is $125. I just feel like it would be a waste because everyone who’s worked on the car previously ****ed up in someway or another. GearHeads out of Texas is the one who completed the swap and used both the 03 and 01 harness in connection and it’s really confusing.
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could a bad TPS be telling the car its WOT? or something in the spliced together harnesses gone wonky
Don’t go down the road of all the weird swap stuff
Go after it like you’re a tech and a customer brought their car in
Get the tools i mentioned. Check those systems and go from there.
It will lead you to the right place.
Thought there was a way to pull codes via flashing check engine light but maybe that was on OBD1
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Go after it like you’re a tech and a customer brought their car in
Get the tools i mentioned. Check those systems and go from there.
It will lead you to the right place.
Thought there was a way to pull codes via flashing check engine light but maybe that was on OBD1
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Hm. Should only rev up with an input. Does sound like TPS may be suspect. Try disconnecting it then try to start it.
If tps is stuck at wot. Car won’t start either.
If tps is stuck at wot. Car won’t start either.
No flash codes on OBDII but you can get a cheapie code reader that will give you the codes for less than $50.00, not the most complex tool in the world and won’t do the job of a scanner but it will read and clear codes
As mentioned, check and confirm the bare basics first, them move on to the more complex things.
Check the FRPS and the MAF is plugged in good.
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