New '96 Cobra Owner.. Tons of questions!

ViciousBlack97

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What do you mean by sleeve on the transmission? Any pics or further explanation for what to look at?



Also -- are o2 sensors interchangeable from a V6 automatic SN95?
I know for a fact that the foxbody T5s had an aluminum throwout bearing retainer sleeve that would regularly wear. With the T45 it is made of steel and shouldn't ever wear enough to cause an issue, but it's still something to look at while the transmission is out. It looks like a metal pipe that surrounds the input shaft on the transmission. The only purpose is to give the throwout bearing something to ride on.
 

Serfma

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Does anyone know if the K-member is going to have to be dropped in order to remove a header, if not both? I'm going to get back under it later this afternoon to see if I can cut the mid pipes with a reciprocating saw to drop the exhaust and have enough clearance for accessing the tranny bolts + dropping it.
 

Serfma

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Does anyone know if the K-member is going to have to be dropped in order to remove a header, if not both? I'm going to get back under it later this afternoon to see if I can cut the mid pipes with a reciprocating saw to drop the exhaust and have enough clearance for accessing the tranny bolts + dropping it.
 

hotcobra03

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Headers are fun.

Before you do.

Revisit fork and cable.

Fork will move. But you can use a pry bar and move fork like cable would.

Even a new cable needs to be oiled:lubed before installing.

Remove cable wd40 till it drips out.
I had the extremely hard pedal issue on last cable.
 

Serfma

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Headers are fun.

Before you do.

Revisit fork and cable.

Fork will move. But you can use a pry bar and move fork like cable would.

Even a new cable needs to be oiled:lubed before installing.

Remove cable wd40 till it drips out.
I had the extremely hard pedal issue on last cable.

With a pry bar, the fork was insanely hard to move forward. Cable slid in and out of sleeve smoothly, but I will lube it up. Tomorrow the clutch kit comes in and I still have yet to drop the tranny. Blah. Only have a couple 3 ton jack stands and no ramps.

What's going to be the best bet on lifting high enough to comfortably drop the k member if I absolutely have to? Don't think I'm going to be able to manage grabbing the header bolts with how tight of space there is.
 
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hotcobra03

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With a pry bar, the fork was insanely hard to move forward. Cable slid in and out of sleeve smoothly, but I will lube it up. Tomorrow the clutch kit comes in and I still have yet to drop the tranny. Blah. Only have a couple 3 ton jack stands and no ramps.

What's going to be the best bet on lifting high enough to comfortably drop the k member if I absolutely have to? Don't think I'm going to be able to manage grabbing the header bolts with how tight of space there is.
It’s tight but headers can be done over the fender and under

I found on mine if I lifted engine up I was able to see top bolts which really helped

Lowers were easy

Removing shifter boot may help on trans bolts.

Luckily I have t56 trans and bell are 2 pieces.

I can do cluch with only lifting rear

I also found using old rims work well to raise car and be safe with more room to work
 

ccq8le

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Kudos to you for taking on the project!!! Make her beautiful again and keep the updates coming.

I too would cut the headers and start new. I think you want to plan all of your lower end projects out and get them across the finish line before putting the exhaust back on.

I always imagine myself buying a project like what you have and restoring it to life.

Again Kudos, and I am looking forward to reading about your build!
 

Serfma

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I believe it's the T45 tranny that is in this Cobra correct? '96 and all that. She's in the shop and we're working on getting the tranny out.. does starter absolutely require to be removed to get tranny out? Also -- we thought we couldn't find the top tranny bolts and that it was going to be a nightmare. Nope. The previous guys just left them out. Not sure if that's typical or a worry.

Oh, drive shaft bolts on the rear were hand tightened only, too.
 

hotcobra03

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Just unbolt starter And pull it back

It can hang if that’s what your asking

Someone didn’t tighten shaft bolts.

They will come out easy if they have been reused But to break them loose may be hard.
 

Serfma

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Input shaft on transmission has some slight play. Don't have the funds to buy a new tranny, what's the labor looking at for replacing the input shaft bearing?

Thinking of just replacing the clutch and reusing tranny as it is and worry about a new one down the road as it doesn't have a ton of play.
 

Serfma

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Does this flywheel look like it needs resurfacing or outright replaced?

Also the issue with the clutch fork was that the TOB was not installed into the fork correctly and the fork wasn't mounted to the pivot ball. That's why it had so much play when I was first checking things out and why it would always feel semi ok until you moved the clutch pedal a few times and it fell off the pivot bearing lol

20190923_134634.jpg
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20190923_134645.jpg
 

Silverboost

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It’s a steel flywheel right? If you can get it resurfaced and it’s cheaper than a new one, then go that route. Also the input shaft should have some play but not a lot. Are you able to measure the play ? I would fix all these things before you put the tranny back in


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

Serfma

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It’s a steel flywheel right? If you can get it resurfaced and it’s cheaper than a new one, then go that route. Also the input shaft should have some play but not a lot. Are you able to measure the play ? I would fix all these things before you put the tranny back in


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

It's the stock. Resurfacing will definitely be cheaper as all I've found are $280+ aftermarket flywheels. Input shaft has very very slight play. Can just barely wiggle it, nothing major.
 

saleen97118

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105 pass side on compression
160 driver's side compression
Has this engine slipped 1tooth on timing pass side?I would redo compression test to se if it changes.
Could also be the intake runner control plates stuck shut or open on one side
 

Serfma

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I ordered the wrong clutch kit. Clutch plate is too small. Figured it out once we had it back on lift to install clutch and tranny back in. Gah. 10.5" clutch plate, but flywheel is 11". After doing some Googling I see a lot of people have made the mistake so I'm definitely far from the first lol
 
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Serfma

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105 pass side on compression
160 driver's side compression
Has this engine slipped 1tooth on timing pass side?I would redo compression test to se if it changes.
Could also be the intake runner control plates stuck shut or open on one side

I have no idea if it has slipped. I'm a pretty noob car guy which is why I'm here learning as I go :) Once I get tranny back in I'll do another compression test and check to see what values I get.
 

Serfma

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Ok now the question is: 11" flywheel. Just resurfaced. I have 10.5" clutch kit. Should I go with an 11" clutch kit, or downgrade to a 10.5" flywheel and use clutch kit I already have?
 

saleen97118

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The crank shaft on a gt has 6 bolts for flywheel a cobra has 8 bolt double check me on count.the OEM clutch for cobras was made by valeo that's what I installed in my car.,don't install get the right size clutch AutoZone has the OEM clutch kit 8 bolt cobra 11" disc.they sell valeo clutch kits
 

Serfma

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Ok after having flywheel resurfaced I noticed there's only 1 dowel pin and I'm unsure if there were 3 initially. Are the dowel pins important or does the plate get a good alignment with just the 6 bolts?
 

ViciousBlack97

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Ok after having flywheel resurfaced I noticed there's only 1 dowel pin and I'm unsure if there were 3 initially. Are the dowel pins important or does the plate get a good alignment with just the 6 bolts?
You need all the dowel pins. They are what actually locate the pressure plate on the flywheel, the bolts just provide the clamping force to keep it on.
 

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