New '96 Cobra Owner.. Tons of questions!

Serfma

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Long time no see! Monday was pretty warm so I took the mustang out for a drive. Haven't touched it since my last post. Running around town and I'm realizing my OBD app (OBD Fusion for Android) was reading coolant temp really oddly. Was stuck at 210 even after running it hard up and down the street well after it's had ample time to warm up and get to operating temps. Looked further into it and realized there was a PID (stat) that was specifically for '96 Ford vehicles for engine coolant temp and this one read in C and was reading 100! It was updating regularly and reacted as expected. Rose when I was giving it hell, dropped when I idled. However I noticed that it got up to 114C / 237F and even spiked to 117 for a brief split second (there's been times the temp would show 40C then next update or two would go back to normal, so I think maybe was a false reading for a moment) and that was at idle! It was certainly raising, but eventually cooled back off.

After running things through my head again with a fresh look at it after a couple months of away time, I realized that I didn't connect LOW SPEED back to the fan and only had HIGH SPEED connected. I suppose at the time I was thinking both were hot with voltage so I'd keep it to HIGH just in case. I realize now that one or the other will be hot depending on certain conditions and it could be the reason for getting so hot but my mind still is thinking back to maybe it's head gasket. Unfamiliar with head gasket symptoms -- is it possible to have a partial gasket problem that's small enough to get things hot or would you guys say I should be fine after reconnecting low speed wire back to the fan?

Lastly -- suppose I do have a head gasket issue. What issues can I run into by continuing to run the car, as long as temperatures stay ok? I figured as much that I could run it and check the oil + coolant after so long to see if it shows anything?

EDIT: I realize I didn't post my pressure test from last year. Bank 1 I read 105 PSI, Bank 2 I read 160 PSI. (15 or less within each other on each bank). I ran the test while cold, I don't know for certain if I disabled fuel pump, and didn't test while WOT which I believe I read somewhere it's what should be done. Going to try another test on the next warm day.
 
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Serfma

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Replaced both coolant sending unit and sensor. Prior to replacing sending unit, coolant gauge read being on the hot side. This unit is showing hotter and going straight to Hot. ECU is reading the normal 208 - 212 range. When I give it hell, I've gotten temps up to 233F (it was 40F yesterday to give an idea of the temps), and I have coolant leaking from the lower radiator hose and upper. Only a minor leak. What the hell is going on? Lol
 

Serfma

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Well I just wanted to update --

I have figured out quite a lot the last couple of months! Upgraded radiator fan to a Mark VIII (slower version) and done a proper burp procedure. Temps are doing great! Haha
 

Serfma

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Final update of this thread!

I have since successfully done a head gasket in the Cobra with the block in the car (never ever doing it again in the car) and it seems like that was the problem with my cooling issues. Compression hasn't been checked yet but it has ran great!
 

Serfma

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Just wanted to thank all of you that took time out of your lives to help me out. Absolutely in love with this car and it's crazy to see how far it's come since my very first post and knowing absolutely nothing.

This was a quick sanding + spray paint job in a day so that the car was entirely one color. Once I get everything else hammered out with the car I'm going to get a real paint job haha :)
 

Serfma

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Going to use this first ever post of mine as a progress thread of mine.

There has been a LOT that has happened since my last update. We sprayed the car blue. The rings were bad in the original engine and tearing down we found cylinder #4 scratched up to the point it needed bored + honed. Planned on forging the bottom end and boring it but quotes were around $2500 or more to bore + torque plate hone so I decided to swap engines out of a lincoln mark 8 that's in it to this day.

Got a 2.1 Kenne Bell and installed it. Somehow a bolt ended up in the #1 intake port and beat the piston. Didn't do too much damage. Filed the damage down, swapped the head with another and sent it. I goofed up and set TDC without realizing there's two TDC's and had the driver bank 360* out from the crank (physically 180* out) and that was in September 2022. You can actually see the bolt sticking out in this picture.

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Yes the car ran. The issues it had was some violent shaking at 800rpm which made the transmission sound like it was knocking, in 3rd or 4th accelerating the car shook. It was incredibly loud which I thought was from the SLP LM2's.

Pulled my transmission around Feb this year, confident that I had an issue somewhere internally causing the knocking. On a 4 post lift you could hear it knocking from the input shaft area but I believe it was the clutch fork smacking around even though you couldn't grab it and hold it to make it go away. If you pressed the clutch pedal in it would go away.

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Replaced bearings as a "while I'm in here", found shift fork pads that were breaking apart, and the reverse sleeve all mangled. Everything else looked pristine. Put back together, put into car, had the new replacement TOB screaming. Pulled the trans and ordered a Ford Racing TOB from many recommendations and reinstalled. Still screaming but not nearly as loud. Whatever, sent it. Still have a scraping noise which is the transmission bellhousing spacer plate slightly bent rubbing against the flywheel that I've just left because it'll have to self clearance sooner or later. Lol.

Installed a tubular K member, tubular control arms, and Raceland coilovers (I know, I know! I regret even buying them but they were better than cut springs at the time) that I found locally for $250. The k member and control arms alone make me more motivated to work on the car onwards because everything's so easy to reach.

Fast forward to April 15th of this year where I finally did a compression test, and I have no idea why I never did it before this but I'd been driving it on and off as a semi-daily. 165psi down the passenger bank, 210psi down the driver bank. Took the timing cover + valve covers off and found the issue finally!

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This pic was taken at TDC #1 compression, note the cam keyways facing 180* out from where they're supposed to be.

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Once it was back in time it was much quieter, smoother, and WOT was absolutely insane compared to what I was used to.

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We had sprayed it blue for the longest time, maybe almost a year at this point. Finally got it to where I was liking the look I was going with. Set of 315/35/17s on the rear and still spinning them halfway into 2nd gear. 1st gear is practically unusable unless I really play the throttle just right.

Now we come to the other night when I was a few towns over visiting family when I had this happen:

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Wasn't doing anything crazy. Regular drive back home, maybe 60mph, just cruising when a deer appeared right in front of me sprinting across the road and I nailed it. There wasn't enough time but for me to realize it was a deer in front of me, couldn't even react to brake or swerve.

Passenger fender, hood, front bumper, headlight panel, pass headlight, radiator + fan, all destroyed. The crash bar funny enough looks like it wasn't moved at all but the frame in front of the CAI is bent. I think the rest is ok but the entire front support needs to be cut out and replaced since the beginning of owning the car, I've just been too nervous to start. Lol
 

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CobraBob

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Sucks that you hit a deer. As you found out, they can do a lot of damage. I like the blue paint. You've been really busy over the past couple of years.
 

Serfma

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Insurance was only liability as I didn't have it on the road quite yet. Planned on putting comprehensive / full coverage on it today but.. yep.

This is all spraypaint by the way. The quarter still hasn't been repaired on the passenger rear so I'm only doing cheap $60 spray paint jobs until I can get the time to cut the quarter out and put a new one in. Never done body work before so it'll be a challenge.

I did find a 97 Cobra roller for about $2k that looks to be in VERY good condition, 106k miles, that I have been debating buying and dropping everything into. The body of this car is so beat up that I am simply not experienced enough to be confident about fixing it. Subframes are smushed and banged up, passenger quarter needs cut out and replaced, driver side dent either pulled out if possible or completely cut and replace that quarter as well, unsure as of yet. Zero body work, know zero people that can help guide unfortunately. Afraid to totally screw the body up. Lol.

You can see the driver side damage here, which replacing a door is no big deal, however I have no idea what to do about the quarter section damage.

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Passenger side is completely banged up, bondo'd over. I have no idea where to even start with it either. Don't have any good pics of it but it's pretty obvious in person.

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Core support has always been banged up as well and haven't had a clue where to start except now with the deer damage I'm considering cutting the core support out from right in front of the shock towers, cutting from another car, and welding it. Zero welding experience currently either LOL

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As you can see from this bad angle pic just how bad it is.

Funny enough while scrolling through pics I found the black Cobra era I had.. looking at it, it really makes me want to go back.

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ViciousBlack97

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Honestly, if the roller is nice and rust free, the amount of time you'd spend trying to make a beat up body look straight would probably be better invested in taking your running gear from the current car and swapping it over. Just my 2 cents, but body work usually goes down the rabbit hole quickly once it gets started, that is if you want a result that will look good and last.
 

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