New '96 Cobra Owner.. Tons of questions!

Serfma

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You need all the dowel pins. They are what actually locate the pressure plate on the flywheel, the bolts just provide the clamping force to keep it on.

Is this for first time alignment, or to maintain alignment while it's installed? I'll have to drop the flywheel and get 2 dowels reinstalled.

Both clutch kits, pressure plate tab holes do not line up to the flywheel. New one was for an 11" flywheel but holes were above the old, so I think I need a 10.5" actually. The initial kit I purchased was for a 10.5" but I feel like maybe it was smaller overall for the pressure plate due to it being for a GT possibly, not sure. Threw me off, that's for sure.
 

ViciousBlack97

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Is this for first time alignment, or to maintain alignment while it's installed? I'll have to drop the flywheel and get 2 dowels reinstalled.

Both clutch kits, pressure plate tab holes do not line up to the flywheel. New one was for an 11" flywheel but holes were above the old, so I think I need a 10.5" actually. The initial kit I purchased was for a 10.5" but I feel like maybe it was smaller overall for the pressure plate due to it being for a GT possibly, not sure. Threw me off, that's for sure.
It's for location during the operation of the clutch. The precision fit between the dowel pins and the pressure plate is what provides the locating forces while the bolts just serve to hold it in place.
 

Serfma

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Would the two dowel pins be something I could press in myself or better to take it to someone? Seems like a simple hammer in, with caution. Lol
 

ViciousBlack97

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Would the two dowel pins be something I could press in myself or better to take it to someone? Seems like a simple hammer in, with caution. Lol
Yep, easiest way is find a deep socket that fits loosely around the pressure plate side of the pin but is too small for the flywheel side and just hammer it home. Don't directly hit on the pin itself because they are a very tight fit to the pressure plate and any burs will cause a major headache.
 

Serfma

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Yes just tap them in till they seat,check them for burrs on the ends to.

Will I just be looking for dowel pins for 8 bolt '96 Cobra flywheel, or is there anything specific? There's already 1 inserted so I'm unsure if there's any variance or difference between any. Wanting to make sure it all gets done correctly.

Apparently my buddy said someone offered $2k as the Cobra sits, and wants to come take another look at it. Not sure if I'd want to do that, but I'm still unsure if I have a head gasket leak, piston ring issue, or if it's a timing issue. Haven't gotten to do a compression test yet, not until we get the clutch back in.

To note: It hasn't overheated with radiator fan hooked directly to battery running at full speed, but when left to the computer it kicks on right at around 210 but will eventually run itself to around 240. The condenser is right up against the radiator and is pretty banged up, is it possible that the condenser is blocking air flow from the front and in turn could be the issue for radiator running hot? It still leads me to thinking more of head gasket issue instead though.

Yep, easiest way is find a deep socket that fits loosely around the pressure plate side of the pin but is too small for the flywheel side and just hammer it home. Don't directly hit on the pin itself because they are a very tight fit to the pressure plate and any burs will cause a major headache.

Thank you for the info, and to both of you for being so helpful and responsive! It's giving me a lot more confidence in working on this beast haha
 

ViciousBlack97

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To rule out anything major, I would pressure test the cooling system. Barring something like a head gasket or other cooling leak, my next bet would be to check and see if the recall was done for the condenser.
 

saleen97118

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Another thing to think of and I have run into this on a cobra,is if a previous owner has put stopleak into the cooling system it will plug up heater core and cause a backup in flow,and a higher pressure in system.drain all coolant and look for stopleak if you haven't already,hate to see you throw money at it for a blockage or flow problem.it also plugged the oil cooler to the point of limited flow took me a day of testing to find stopleak in system.
 

Serfma

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To rule out anything major, I would pressure test the cooling system. Barring something like a head gasket or other cooling leak, my next bet would be to check and see if the recall was done for the condenser.

Pressure test the cooling system? Never heard of doing that. Is it testing from the reservoir / degas?

As for "check if the recall was done for the condenser", what's that entail? I'm thinking of pulling the condenser because it's trashed and we need a new one anyways, unsure if I can cap off any of the lines until I get a new one, especially with the A/C line shorted out currently and haven't looked far into it because if it's head gasket I have that to worry about instead.

Another thing to think of and I have run into this on a cobra,is if a previous owner has put stopleak into the cooling system it will plug up heater core and cause a backup in flow,and a higher pressure in system.drain all coolant and look for stopleak if you haven't already,hate to see you throw money at it for a blockage or flow problem.it also plugged the oil cooler to the point of limited flow took me a day of testing to find stopleak in system.

From what I can remember, I didn't see anything weird when I drained the coolant the very first time. I have the old radiator still, so I'll see if I can get it cut apart to check out the rows to see if I can find anything concrete.
 

ViciousBlack97

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Pressure test the cooling system? Never heard of doing that. Is it testing from the reservoir / degas?

As for "check if the recall was done for the condenser", what's that entail? I'm thinking of pulling the condenser because it's trashed and we need a new one anyways, unsure if I can cap off any of the lines until I get a new one, especially with the A/C line shorted out currently and haven't looked far into it because if it's head gasket I have that to worry about instead.



From what I can remember, I didn't see anything weird when I drained the coolant the very first time. I have the old radiator still, so I'll see if I can get it cut apart to check out the rows to see if I can find anything concrete.
They sell kits that fit on the fill cap opening and use a handheld pump to pressurize the entire system. I think you can rent them from some stores, but you can pressurize the system to whatever the cap is rated to and watch the gauge. If it holds steady, the system should be leak free. However, if the needle slowly drops, you can deduce that there is a leak somewhere in the system. It especially helps with finding external leaks because you will physically see the coolant escaping from wherever the leak is.
 

Serfma

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I'll get that checked out possibly tomorrow, depending if we have enough time to put the tranny back in, if not Saturday.

Found out that the flywheel indeed is an 11" but is from a newer gen vehicle. Came straight from a clutch shop in Louisville, KY. Brought the old part to compare and it is an exact match. Asked the guy about dowel pins and he said "they don't do much, the 6 bolts do it all, maybe just help with aligning the plate to the flywheel is all" lol

Thankfully there's at least a place here in KY to walk in and purchase off the shelf instead of having to order online.
 

Serfma

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Best photo I have of this mess of a core support and condenser and just in front of the engine. Do we have an idea of what fan line voltage should be when it kicks on and at what temp? I think 210 it kicks on, but heats up further to the point of 240 and never ramps up fan speed.

P.S. new radiator is in, SR Performance Mustang Aluminum Radiator 100527 (96 4.6L w/ Manual Transmission), but fan is STOCK.
 

Serfma

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-snip-

After a full day of running the Cobra around I have a slew of questions to ask!

1. On the 45 minute drive, well into the drive, the coolant temp gauge would move over to the "L" in "NORMAL". I ran an OBD w/ Torque Pro and the coolant temp never read higher than 200 during this time. Bad gauge? Trust OBD over the gauge?

2. Clutch is stiff after replacing TOB, clutch fork, clutch plate, clutch disc, properly mounting fork to pivot stud and TOB to the fork. Greasing everything that's needed. I'm 90% sure the reason is the clutch plate. I found that we have an 11" flywheel that has apparently came out of an '05 - '08, which was told to me by a clutch shop that matched the plate that came out of the car. The plate fingers bend inwards close to the center, opposed to sticking out towards the TOB. Cable is new and slides through the sleeve ok. I can still shift but it's definitely a stiff pedal.

3. In 5th gear I'm hearing a high pitched whine when I'm not giving any gas. Sounds to be something with the tranny/clutch. Maybe TOB adjusted incorrectly? It's not a very present sound, hard to hear, definitely over the engine alone lol

3 -> figured out it was the TOB. firewall adjuster twisted out and fixed it.

4. What o2 sensors do I need? Currently have one that works out of the 4. Not sure if required or if it would help me any to seek a few out.

Absolutely loving the car already just from day 1.
 
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Serfma

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Just an update:

I've learned so much the last couple of months. Thanks to each and every one of you that have taken the time out of your days to help me out.

Overheating problem is effectively gone. Temp gauge on the instrument cluster is not accurate, and found out that the gas gauge is also inaccurate when I ran out of gas out of town with a "half" tank of gas.

The only "problems" I have so far are:

  • Gas tank gauge reads incorrectly
  • Temp gauge is not accurate
  • WOT in first gear RPMs rise to 3.5k, pause / stay steady for a couple seconds, then resumes onwards.
  • Valve covers leaking oil
  • Squeaky belt
  • Clutch pedal incredibly stiff due to installing a clutch plate for an 05 and above Stang, which means it's for a hydraulic clutch! :(
  • Possible exhaust leak at the header(s)
  • Still lower compression on one bank. Should I completely stop driving with uneven compression or is it ok?
  • Core support needs to be cut and new re-welded, currently have radiator held by zip ties, shhh
  • Exhaust is stock, been cut, and terribly welded on by a buddy since it's temporary and held up by coat hangers until next weekend when I have time to fix it lol
Definitely spring 2020.. lol
 

Serfma

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Not much update since last. Cold weather set in and I'm focusing money into the business rather than the project.

Running pretty well for now. Needing to fix issue with my gas gauge. Little below half tank it ran out of gas (the gauge showed a little below half) and when I put just as much as 3 gallons in it'll read full. With ignition off it does not reset back to Empty. Do I need to bypass slosh module?
 

Shifty Powers

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You have made some crazy progress already. I am sure it is going away for the winter until spring. Which will give you time to game plan and get some parts together.

The gas guage could be stuck or the floater on the fuel pump could be stuck too. Mine reads accurate up until an 8th and then doesnt move from there. But now I know and dont let it get past there. But you should be able to go past half based on milage and how your driving.
Could put aftermarket guages in for temp and such.

Sounds like a new exhaust is in your future with new header gaskets. Sounds like valve cover gaskets would be good. Maybe even header gaskets(but thats a bigger ball game). Are all the pulleys good on the car? I am sure one may need replacing soon.
 

Serfma

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Have not looked into the fuel gauge issue yet after doing the anti-slosh module bypass, still waiting to run it out of fuel to see where it's left at. I don't have access to the garage in the place I'm renting so I'm waiting for that.

I'm going to work on valve cover gaskets, replace the serpentine belt (I know easy and quick but I get so lazy and distracted by everything worse lol), drop the K member to do header gaskets, and as for checking pulleys -- not sure but I'll look into it!

I've pulled the entire front-end off. I need to get a new front bumper, new headlights, and a new core support. American Muscle has a core support for $110 and a buddy can definitely weld it in. Main delay is from needing the free money to throw into the car. Entirely regretting modding my Cobalt at all.

Where's the best place to find body parts without buying brand spanking new?
 

jgt58

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Have not looked into the fuel gauge issue yet after doing the anti-slosh module bypass, still waiting to run it out of fuel to see where it's left at. I don't have access to the garage in the place I'm renting so I'm waiting for that.

I'm going to work on valve cover gaskets, replace the serpentine belt (I know easy and quick but I get so lazy and distracted by everything worse lol), drop the K member to do header gaskets, and as for checking pulleys -- not sure but I'll look into it!

I've pulled the entire front-end off. I need to get a new front bumper, new headlights, and a new core support. American Muscle has a core support for $110 and a buddy can definitely weld it in. Main delay is from needing the free money to throw into the car. Entirely regretting modding my Cobalt at all.

Where's the best place to find body parts without buying brand spanking new?

Sent from my SM-N950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

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