Need input on what to buy / where to buy it... 1000+ rwhp application

[aarons04cobra]

So my motor is making a loud ticking from the top end. I am yet to disassemble and find the cause due wanting to build a new motor to reach my power goals. I am aiming to make 1000 RWHP running a 4 liter whipple and e85. I was thinking I will pull my motor and sell it to a friend, that way I can start my car on a fresh platform. I have gone back and fourth between buying a block and building it from scratch, or buying a prebuilt short / long block and piecing it together from there.

Please advise.

Thanks SVTP

 

[badjuicedgt]

probably going to be cheaper buying a pre assembled short/long block, plus there are a lot of good builders out there plus that's why all the big drag racers have an engine builder they use and don't do it them selves. That's the way I'm going to go this winter I'm just going to order a new long block and add the rest myself, ive done it both ways and its a lot less headache buying an already built motor.

 

[Posi]

Call Michael at L&M Engines and he'll take care of all your needs. Then when your engine is ready he just ships it to you via truck. It's what I did with my BOSS build and I never had an issue. He also designed custom 2.3 liter blower cams for my VMP TVS that's on the car now which makes 742hp at 21lbs of boost thru a built 4r70w.

 

[ctgreddy]

Livernois or L&M

Please keep in mind tho building an engine for that kind of hp will not be cheap by any means. You're going to want to consider a sleeved teskid/3v block, billet rods, good pistons, etc.

 

[GodStang]

Also remember most of the 4.0L guys got rid of the blower due to issues with it on our motor. Also for that power with a TS look at GT500 heads instead of cobra heads. Better power potential.

 

[Brutal Metal]

So many guys in here lately want to go from a pullied eaton all the way to 1000HP? WHY for a street car?

 

[s351]

So many guys in here lately want to go from a pullied eaton all the way to 1000HP? WHY for a street car?

I think a lot of guys read about how easy it is to do without hearing all the horror stories of building them never mind the bank account. I have a way over built street car, that I turn down to drive simply because you need so much space, and alertness to use it on the street that it becomes crazy to drive worrying about traction and breaking stuff. People see all this power and don't understand what it takes to make the car actually work without being a headache.

That and watching to many texas2k events.

 

[badcobra]

I'd re-think your Whipple 4.0 plan. Almost every guy who has put that blower on with plans to make big power has gotten rid of it as mentioned. If you want 4 digit power and have a VERY large budget, go turbo.

 

[Nightmare302]

You can build "budget" 1000rwhp builds but they typically fail. You don't need and should not sleeve a teksid/new WAP for that power level. You do not need GT heads and going to GT heads requires different intake and the 4.0 will not fit. If you go 4.0 you need to address the crank snout and the pressure the big blower puts on it when spun hard. A 3.4 would make 1000rwhp and would be a better blower.

You sound caught up in HP. Find out what you really want out of the car and then build accordingly otherwise you will end up very unhappy and will probably end up parting the car out like 99 percent of big hp builds do.

Do you want a cruiser? No need for 4.0 or 1krwhp.
Do you want a drag car? Suspension/transmission become incredibly important and can cost more than your engine build.

A lot of people think making 1krwhp makes your penis size grow but in reality you've got a dyno queen that would lose to most 700rwhp cars.

"affordable" 1krwhp recipe.

E85 fuel or Race gas
Teksid/05+ WAP block
Molnar Billet Rods
Custom Pistons (10:1 compression or higher)
Tool steel wrist pins (I like .180 wall some say it's overkill)
Total seal steel rings with napier cut second ring
ARP heads studs
ARP main studs
Factory crank
I like king bearings
New GT500 oil pump with boundary billet gears
factory heads with valve job and seats replaced
BTR springs factory retainers
01 Cobra intake or mach (this also requires new timing cover, alt, throttle cable/bracket so on)
On3 turbo kit but replace all v-bands and check for leaks
Use your favorite brand of turbo typically around a 76mm (lots of cobra guys are super hard for precision I like borg )
Bosch 105's
Fore twin 465 fuel system (this includes line, filter, reg, rails)
26 spline input shaft
RXT clutch
full tilt boogie racing IRS bushing or SRA swap with at least 31 spline
you'll need tubular suspension (I like team z)
Your choice of tuning options (ngauge,SCT whatever)
SCT BA5000 MAF
Random gaskets (timing cover, valve covers, headgaskets so on)
Wideband
Boost controller (boost leash is awesome)
New timing chains
Replace plastic tensioners with metal and shave notches add spacers


If you want to add cams:
Cloyes adjustable gear kit if you want to use the Z chains
Custom grind cams

If you want add protection
Shelby Mike billet arms
Accufab secondary chains




You are still over 10k to do it. To do it "right" would put you near 20k. If you want a shop to build the motor add 2k to it. If you want someone to build the whole thing had another 2-3k. Don't forget you'll need to pay a tuner as well.

Looking for used deals would help.

That should get you going. It will still lose to auto cobras making 200-300 less but you'll have your number with a large amount of boost.

People do not understand how much it costs to build a car right.

 

[GodStang]

Very good post. Your affordable 1000rwhp recipe is for turbo correct? I would think doing it twin screw would be way more $$$. On a side note You can use your stock intake for GT500 heads been done a few times.

You can build "budget" 1000rwhp builds but they typically fail. You don't need and should not sleeve a teksid/new WAP for that power level. You do not need GT heads and going to GT heads requires different intake and the 4.0 will not fit. If you go 4.0 you need to address the crank snout and the pressure the big blower puts on it when spun hard. A 3.4 would make 1000rwhp and would be a better blower.

You sound caught up in HP. Find out what you really want out of the car and then build accordingly otherwise you will end up very unhappy and will probably end up parting the car out like 99 percent of big hp builds do.

Do you want a cruiser? No need for 4.0 or 1krwhp.
Do you want a drag car? Suspension/transmission become incredibly important and can cost more than your engine build.

A lot of people think making 1krwhp makes your penis size grow but in reality you've got a dyno queen that would lose to most 700rwhp cars.

"affordable" 1krwhp recipe.

E85 fuel or Race gas
Teksid/05+ WAP block
Molnar Billet Rods
Custom Pistons (10:1 compression or higher)
Tool steel wrist pins (I like .180 wall some say it's overkill)
Total seal steel rings with napier cut second ring
ARP heads studs
ARP main studs
Factory crank
I like king bearings
New GT500 oil pump with boundary billet gears
factory heads with valve job and seats replaced
BTR springs factory retainers
01 Cobra intake or mach (this also requires new timing cover, alt, throttle cable/bracket so on)
On3 turbo kit but replace all v-bands and check for leaks
Use your favorite brand of turbo typically around a 76mm (lots of cobra guys are super hard for precision I like borg )
Bosch 105's
Fore twin 465 fuel system (this includes line, filter, reg, rails)
26 spline input shaft
RXT clutch
full tilt boogie racing IRS bushing or SRA swap with at least 31 spline
you'll need tubular suspension (I like team z)
Your choice of tuning options (ngauge,SCT whatever)
SCT BA5000 MAF
Random gaskets (timing cover, valve covers, headgaskets so on)
Wideband
Boost controller (boost leash is awesome)
New timing chains
Replace plastic tensioners with metal and shave notches add spacers


If you want to add cams:
Cloyes adjustable gear kit if you want to use the Z chains
Custom grind cams

If you want add protection
Shelby Mike billet arms
Accufab secondary chains




You are still over 10k to do it. To do it "right" would put you near 20k. If you want a shop to build the motor add 2k to it. If you want someone to build the whole thing had another 2-3k. Don't forget you'll need to pay a tuner as well.

Looking for used deals would help.

That should get you going. It will still lose to auto cobras making 200-300 less but you'll have your number with a large amount of boost.

People do not understand how much it costs to build a car right.

 

[Nightmare302]

You can also sub in Wiseco pistons with upgraded wrist pins but they don't come in flat top. They are the most robust off of the shelf but the savings is only 200-300 bucks.

In regards to GT heads, they are designed for 5.4's so the intake will not line up nor will the exhaust. If you want to attempt to make your lower work you could but it would not be easy and would be custom. Manifolds can be modified for the exhaust as well but again that would be custom. The cost benefit in a GT head for a twin screw if you don't have a 5.4 and the GT500/GT lower is not worth it at all as the factory heads can be massaged to out flow stock GT heads.

If you go turbo/centri you can use the FR-500c (which is what I use) with GT heads.