Same problem here. Doesn't seem like there is an answer for this. Trouble shooting here we go.
Stalling on decel/braking with clutch in
- Thread starter MustangThief
- Start date
phillySVT said:
My tuner messed with mine last night as it is doing the same thing. He set it so the idle doesn't drop so rapidly when the clutch is pressed in, but afterwards on the way home it died a couple times. This has been an ongoing issue for me for months now, and not only is it dangerous in traffic, but it makes driving my car very displeasing. I've done the IAC, MAF, TB, cleaned EVERYTHING and also checked ALL lines for vacuum leaks... still no 100% fix. Im seriously beginning to believe this is a mechanical issue, and not tuning related.
Has anyone looked into a technical Directive that might be out from ford. Maybe this is common enough for a TD but not a recall.
There are 2 TSBs from Ford about the stall.
Problem is, along with others, I'm running a custom tune and it's still happening.
I asked a couple people if the TSB reflash from the dealer possibly reflashes a part of the ECU that is not affected by using an XCAL2/Predator? Maybe those parameters that they flash are locked? I'm not sure, and haven't gotten an answer on it.
I'm in the same boat as JBN...
But JBN, my problem is, sometimes it will happen 3-4 times in one drive, some days as soon as i press the clutch in the RPMs go above idle and never drop below, and it runs great.
I don't believe it would be something mechanically however, i'd say it has to be the tune somehow.
My tuner was stumped as well, but said i should drop it off and he can road test it. (think i already said that)
Problem is, along with others, I'm running a custom tune and it's still happening.
I asked a couple people if the TSB reflash from the dealer possibly reflashes a part of the ECU that is not affected by using an XCAL2/Predator? Maybe those parameters that they flash are locked? I'm not sure, and haven't gotten an answer on it.
I'm in the same boat as JBN...
But JBN, my problem is, sometimes it will happen 3-4 times in one drive, some days as soon as i press the clutch in the RPMs go above idle and never drop below, and it runs great.
I don't believe it would be something mechanically however, i'd say it has to be the tune somehow.
My tuner was stumped as well, but said i should drop it off and he can road test it. (think i already said that)
RealBadDude
Banned
i notice you have a MAC cold air kit.
if you notice on the factoy airbox unit the mass air meter sits at the 10 o'clock position. many aftermarket kits such as K&N and the MAC kit rotate the mass air to the 12 o'clock position.
doesn't sound like a big deal until you consider the physics of air flow. there is a bend in your pipe after the mass air into the supercharger. that bend impacts the air speed at the mass air.
ford located the mass air meter and tuned for it at 10 o'clock.
the air flows slower at the 12 o'clock position then the 10 o'clock position due to the bend in the pipe after the mass air and the variations in air speed as result of that bend.
the behavior can come and go with each day. it depends on the weather, literaly. air density changes with each day, and thus so do mass air readings
i can't claim to understand it, but i am willing to bet if you are able to rotate your mass air back to 10 o'clock it goes away.
ask me why i know...
someone suggested this to me, and i didn;t buy into it at first, but i tried it since nothing else seemed to work at the time. seems okay now so i presume that was it.
i had to drill the K&N kit and reattach using the supplied nuts and bolts.
if you notice on the factoy airbox unit the mass air meter sits at the 10 o'clock position. many aftermarket kits such as K&N and the MAC kit rotate the mass air to the 12 o'clock position.
doesn't sound like a big deal until you consider the physics of air flow. there is a bend in your pipe after the mass air into the supercharger. that bend impacts the air speed at the mass air.
ford located the mass air meter and tuned for it at 10 o'clock.
the air flows slower at the 12 o'clock position then the 10 o'clock position due to the bend in the pipe after the mass air and the variations in air speed as result of that bend.
the behavior can come and go with each day. it depends on the weather, literaly. air density changes with each day, and thus so do mass air readings
i can't claim to understand it, but i am willing to bet if you are able to rotate your mass air back to 10 o'clock it goes away.
ask me why i know...
someone suggested this to me, and i didn;t buy into it at first, but i tried it since nothing else seemed to work at the time. seems okay now so i presume that was it.
i had to drill the K&N kit and reattach using the supplied nuts and bolts.
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I am all up for giving anything a try right now
I have a K&N CAI and will try drilling it and putting it back to the 10 oclock position.
My tuner got back to me on the datalog i gave them up earlier in the threads and said he was noticing some air fluctuation.
I do remember having the stall issue when i was stock(04) as well though so i am leaning to it not being a hardware (CAI) issue. I am willing to give anything a try though.....
I have a K&N CAI and will try drilling it and putting it back to the 10 oclock position.
My tuner got back to me on the datalog i gave them up earlier in the threads and said he was noticing some air fluctuation.
I do remember having the stall issue when i was stock(04) as well though so i am leaning to it not being a hardware (CAI) issue. I am willing to give anything a try though.....
I didn't read through the tread so I don't know what was said but..
When my car was tuned and I pulled out, the same thing happened to me. I turned around and told him what happened and he just pulled the chip and messed with something and it hasn't happened since then... He told me he changed the settings on the idle when the clutch goes in when coasting to save gas or something. He had a name for it but I can't remember. It was an easy fix for him..
Dunno if this helps but good luck
When my car was tuned and I pulled out, the same thing happened to me. I turned around and told him what happened and he just pulled the chip and messed with something and it hasn't happened since then... He told me he changed the settings on the idle when the clutch goes in when coasting to save gas or something. He had a name for it but I can't remember. It was an easy fix for him..
Dunno if this helps but good luck
chopps said:
Tim tuned my car as well... He is great guy and stands by his work...
Will you be making it to dyno day at the new shop???
my car was doing this almost everytime i would come to a stop or push the clutch in. I know it sounds retarded but i was looking around the intake area and noticed the pipe off of the TB was hanging off of the bottom and after resetting it on there and unhooking the bat. term. the car hasnt done it since. just my $.02
RealBadDude
Banned
Cobra8urZ06 said:
unhooking the battery terminal is only a temp fix.
this is a "learned behavior" so give your car time to re-learn the bad behavior and will start at it again.
When I got my stock brand new 03 Cobra it was fine until I installed a CAI then I had the stall issue. I was running QUD2. I took it to the dealer and they flashed it with YDH1 and I never had the problem again. I've since been reflashed by my tuner who says he started with an 04 cobra flash and still don't have the problem.
I have the YDH1 and still have the stalling issue.
I would like to know if anyone has yet found the culprit to this problem. Like i read previously about making adjustments to the dashpot, does anyone know if theres a problem in the dashpot or is that just the band-aid fix? Anyone find anything new?:shrug:
I just went out and double checked the sticker they put in my passenger's door and it is indeed YDH1. It cured my stall immediately. Is it possible that you didn't get the flash? Maybe have the dealer verify it really was flashed? Sorry I'm reaching here. Not sure what else to tell you. Hopefully someone else has some insight.
Check you MAF and make sure it's still in the same position as it was before the install of the intake... Unless you tune it for the angle change it will cause random stalls....
it is YDH1 and has been verified/tuned several times. My tuner data-logged everything from the wot passes we made in 2nd and 3rd gear with his wideband on the car. Everything looks good across the board, with my a/f sitting at 11.7 all the way to redline. My maf is in the stock location.
I recently heard from someone on another site that the boost actuator and boost bypass actuator solenoid could possibly be bad; he says the if the seal goes bad in the actuator that it can cause idling/dying issues. Those are about the only things i haven't replaced yet, so come monday ill replace them. He also told me the seal can go bad after a missed shift/rev limiter hit, and the first time my car ever sputtered or stalled was after a night of street racing. I'll let you guy know what happens. Thanks for the sugestions thus far guys.
Jay
I recently heard from someone on another site that the boost actuator and boost bypass actuator solenoid could possibly be bad; he says the if the seal goes bad in the actuator that it can cause idling/dying issues. Those are about the only things i haven't replaced yet, so come monday ill replace them. He also told me the seal can go bad after a missed shift/rev limiter hit, and the first time my car ever sputtered or stalled was after a night of street racing. I'll let you guy know what happens. Thanks for the sugestions thus far guys.
Jay
Mine is an early June 2002 production, came with QUD2 code, got reflash from dealership to HSF0 to cure the stahl problem. It worked, had to send the Predator back to RWTD to get an upgrade due to code change. However, since these cars have been out for a number of years it could be a component failure rather than the PCM code that is causing your issues.
I think I'm going to get the reflash then work with my tuner for him to rebuild my tune on the new code.
I think it's a PCM issue not a hardware issue, because it happens to sporatically. Sometimes it doesn't happen for a week, sometimes it happens 3 or 4 times in one trip...
I think it's a PCM issue not a hardware issue, because it happens to sporatically. Sometimes it doesn't happen for a week, sometimes it happens 3 or 4 times in one trip...
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