your thoughts on this centrifugal belt slip fix

[DSG2003Mach1]

Another mach1 guy has a combo very similar to mine running a D1 w/ a 3.6" pulley, Im gonna be running a 3.7 but he is having belt slip issues using the same thump RR tensioner I am. I was looking for a used 8 rib conversion and someone posted about running 16-18psi with a 6rib setup by adding an additional idler between the alternator and the power steering pump.

I can add this idler for under $50 vs $400 for the eight rib setup...I could also get a no-slip 3.7 6rib pulley from RR for ~$150 and Id still be ~$200 ahead of the game.

machined standoff for new idler

additional idler installed (requires machining off the lip of the water pump pulley which my uncle can do)

any educated thoughts/opinions as to how this will work?

 

[BlackVenom99]

It's not adding any belt wrap, but is taking up some slack in the belt. That slack can be reduced with a smaller belt, unless the ideal size isn't available which would then make this the next best option.
It'll only assist if your original problem was because of the lack of an ideal belt size.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

im starting to lean towards that more than anything it would help keep ya from slinging a belt when getting on/off the throttle due to wheel spin or just playing around...dont really wanna get on the dyno only to have belt slip issues but then again why spend a fortune if I dont have to...maybe just trying a 3.7" pulley from RR would be a worth a shot (its not gonna be a dd so replacing a belt once or twice a year doesnt bother me)

 

[redfire04gt]

As stated it doesn't provide any further belt wrap. I looks like it definitely helps with the slack between the alt and ps pulley's. Was the belt not tight before or did you have a shorter belt? The belt needs to be tight! Personally I'd just do the 8 rib if you can find them used or at the junkyard. If you ever want to go to a smaller pulley you'll need it anyways and you'll have spend $200 on this setup with a RR pulley and another $400 on top of that for the 8 rib.

Or for a bit more than $200 find a used IW overdrive crank and trade your pulley for a larger one.

 

[AntiHeightPunk]

the only way i got rid of belt slip is going turbo

 

[Parts-is-Parts]

As I told you on M1R...there was zero belt slip on a D1 with 16psi. Stock tensioner too.
Don't be scared...send me the 20 bucks and save yourself a world of headaches.

 

[BADD281]

Will this work on the 2v's also? I've always wanted to add an idler there since my oversized alternator slips with the tiny billet pulley. Never understood the lack of idler in that area.

 

[Black*Death]

I just went from a 3.2" on a P1sc 6 rib to a 2.95".

I had the 2.95 coated by Carbinite. I will get it tuned and let you know, but coating the pulley may help?

 

[rubber duck]

Worst case is you sell the RR pulley and idler. It might work depending on how small of a pulley you go. When I would get slip it would be from the s/c pully itself, and I don't quite see how this idler will help that, but I'm sure there's a few guys that would be interested to see how it goes.

 

[Brutal Metal]

I saw close to 15 psi with no belt slip last winter, 6 rib,stock tensioner,Reichard pulley,Vortech idler,112.89" belt..

 

[01yellercobra]

You shouldn't need anything extra with pullies that big. More then likely something somewhere isn't lined up. My alternator was about 1 rib off alignment from the blower and it caused all kinds of issues. Once I found it and aligned it, I didn't have problems. Granted that was with a 3.9" pulley. I was making 14psi.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Im going to run the extra idler along with going 8 rib as from everything Ive read it seems like around the 3.7/3.6 is where the slip issues tend to start.

I give up on trying to get a hold of RR so if it comes down to it Ill look into something like the carbonite coating mentioned above, I dont care if its hard on belts as it wont see a ton of miles anyway