Yet Another Overheating Thread

[ShadowDrake]

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T-stat orientation seems right in that the spring part is in the bypass path....thats what the manual shows.

I think the T-stat never totally blocks the bypass path and is like a mixer function...I don't see how the construction would allow for totally blocking the bypass path off...I don't even think the system would want that to happen...hammering like that.

Anyone?

Going off into theory now, it would seem most ideal to me for thermostat full open to full close the bypass loop.

Having it be progressive would be most ideal.

Thermostat only being 10% open would still allow 90% of the flow from the bypass loop. Thermostat 100% open should allow 0% hot coolant from the bypass.

Because if the coolant is hot enough to get thermostat full open - you shouldn't want to bypass any hot coolant past the radiator.

I wonder if there would be an effective way to rig this up But that's an entirely different thing. Car should be cool now so we'll see what I can do.

 

[Janstang]

Just to clarify.. You aren't topping the coolant expansion tank all the way to the top with antifreeze are you? If you are thats your issue.

 

[ShadowDrake]

Just to clarify.. You aren't topping the coolant expansion tank all the way to the top with antifreeze are you? If you are thats your issue.

Yeah typically - pretty close anyway. Does it need expansion room?

Took the crossover plug off and the car took like a cup of water... not exactly groundbreaking. I drove it to work so I will check again on lunch or something.

 

[ShadowDrake]

Yeah typically - pretty close anyway. Does it need expansion room?

Took the crossover plug off and the car took like a cup of water... not exactly groundbreaking. I drove it to work so I will check again on lunch or something.

Just got home from work - car still overheats. Went to get gas. ECT at the gas station was about 70*c, just before the thermostat opens.

Coming home, ECTs hold at 88-90 for a minute, then just keep on going right up. Shut the car off in traffic for a minute to get the temps down so I could get home.

Backing into my garage as ECTs are at 116 and rising. I hop out and toss a rag over the overflow bottle in case it decides to pop while I'm poking around.

Upper radiator hose is ROCK SOLID. Bypass hose is only slightly warm but also has pressure. Lower radiator hose is cold and somewhat pliable (not as stiff as the upper was. Thermostat housing on the radiator side is warm, can't reach the block water inlet because of too much hot stuff around.

I shut the car off for a 60 second count.

ECT still reported 118 when I turned the engine back on. Within 30 seconds of idling, ECTs are back at 102 and dropping fast.

All the while, nice warm air comes out of the heat. It's about 50*F outside today so there's no excuses there.

Any further ideas? I'll try to add some more water to it after it cools down but it's going to be a little. I let it idle so the temps came back down to normal ranges (95) and shut it off.

Edit: Short drive, checked again. All hoses have equal pressure - car is overheating but lower radiator hose is cold like the thermostat is stuck closed. No way in hell I've had this many thermostats and they've ALL been bad. Same as before, shut it down for 60 seconds and start it back up and temp plummets.

Let it sit for ~60 mins and cracked open the crossover plug, coolant came out. Cracked open the degas bottle and it too wanted to puke coolant. So I'm going to let it cool off so the pressure is gone and we'll see. *shrug*

 

[Janstang]

You shouldn't be filling the "coolant expansion" tank all the way to the top. FWIW, on my car I changed the cooling system so it now has the thermostat on the topside, just after the coolant crossover tube, where it heads over to the radiator.(similiar to the how the 2V's run).

 

[shurur]

Q: Have you tried running without the T-stat installed?

Q: And are you absolutely sure your T-stat is oriented right?

I'd pull the T-stat and make sure all the air was out of the system...just to eliminate the T-stat in the equation.

It's running over now as it is..WTH!

And I still need to research whether your GT block uses a T-stat housing on top of the motor or not..it almost feels like some kind of cooling system mix-and-match problem.

NOW Real Pics close-up would be helpful...especially of your top block and around your cross over tubes....and underneath where the bypass tube goes...i.e....around your T-stat housing(s??).

I'm not sure you need a bypass tube and independent T-stat housing with a GT block..because I believe your T-stat housingand bypass connection is on top of the motor.

Also

http://reischeperformance.com/

"Many have searched the internet and part stores for a properly fitting low temp thermostat for their late model GT500, Cobra, Mach 1, Bullitt, Mustang GT and Boss 302. Beware of aftermarket companies who sell the same thermostat for all Ford modular engines. Those units are designed for the 2V SOHC engine and, if installed in the improper housing, will be unable to shut off the bypass- allowing hot coolant to recirculate back into the engine at all times, reducing the efficiency of your cooling system.
Our FORD-4D (right) & other Ford DOHC thermostats are custom made with the same size diaphragm and bypass control as the OEM units. Each of our thermostats is modified by hand using only U.S. made parts and then quality inspected to ensure consistent opening temps. These t-stats are the only ones specifically designed to fit these applications making them the best performing low temp units on the market!"

 

[shurur]

More details needed.

Where are you filling the coolant from?

Also post pics of your setup. We'd like to see this frankenstein creation.

I.E...what 006 said on post #2...

 

[ShadowDrake]

Q: Have you tried running without the T-stat installed?

Q: And are you absolutely sure your T-stat is oriented right?

I'd pull the T-stat and make sure all the air was out of the system...just to eliminate the T-stat in the equation.

It's running over now as it is..WTH!

And I still need to research whether your GT block uses a T-stat housing on top of the motor or not..it almost feels like some kind of cooling system mix-and-match problem.

NOW Real Pics close-up would be helpful...especially of your top block and around your cross over tubes....and underneath where the bypass tube goes...i.e....around your T-stat housing(s??).

I'm not sure you need a bypass tube and independent T-stat housing with a GT block..because I believe your T-stat housingand bypass connection is on top of the motor.

Also

170° PERFORMANCE THERMOSTAT for Mustang Shelby GT500, Boss 302, Cobra, Lightning, GT & Mach 1

"Many have searched the internet and part stores for a properly fitting low temp thermostat for their late model GT500, Cobra, Mach 1, Bullitt, Mustang GT and Boss 302. Beware of aftermarket companies who sell the same thermostat for all Ford modular engines. Those units are designed for the 2V SOHC engine and, if installed in the improper housing, will be unable to shut off the bypass- allowing hot coolant to recirculate back into the engine at all times, reducing the efficiency of your cooling system.
Our FORD-4D (right) & other Ford DOHC thermostats are custom made with the same size diaphragm and bypass control as the OEM units. Each of our thermostats is modified by hand using only U.S. made parts and then quality inspected to ensure consistent opening temps. These t-stats are the only ones specifically designed to fit these applications making them the best performing low temp units on the market!"

Yes the thermostat is installed correctly, the spring and base of the thermostat is in the path of the bypass loop.

I took the thermostat out today and cut up my OEM cobra stat - removed all the innards and just left the top ring. Reinstalled that so the thermostat housing will seal (it was leaking with only the o-ring in there).

So essentially I pulled the thermostat today. Refilled the system (it took about 2qts less coolant to refill - I didn't max out the overflow bottle and instead filled it to the "Add coolant" line.

AFAIK - all the blocks are the same when it comes to coolant flow, but the FGT block may be different (it has a very different water pump which I guess flows much more coolant). The 04 GT blocks are identical to the 04 Cobra blocks - this theory holds water because unlike what everyone says about the 4v swap I did NOT have to make any changes to my block to fit the 4v timing equipment.

I have the continental water pump and my GT water pump - they look identical, the vanes are not reversed. The continental block is a WAP block (99-01 aluminum).

The 2v setup DOES have the thermostat at the top of the engine but it's built into the intake manifold at the crossover. I'm not really sure how the coolant flows over the thermostat in this setup to open it - it may pass a small amount of coolant at full closed. When it opens, it allows the hot coolant out of the engine. This seems far more ideal to me than using the cold coolant from the radiator as the measure of temperature.

Results from removing the thermostat? It's been 50-60 today (pretty warm!) and driving it around to test, coolant temperatures hover around 70-78*C depending on driving. I abused the car (0-130) and drove it hard in general and never saw the temp go above 82*C. Everything appears to be normal. And if the coolant coming out of the engine is 78*C - that puts it at 172*F... aka PERFECT.

Warmup time is definitely longer but my average drive doesn't have the car warming up completely anyway.

Everything appears to be good.

I believe my problem is the hose I'm using for the bypass circuit is too small. It should be 1-1/2" but is 1" instead (or something along those lines. I didn't think it would have that much of a difference but I guess it must.

And a side note, you can't use the reische refill instructions per say when refilling without a thermostat. If you rev it with a funnel in the crossover, even with the degas bottle closed, it will suck the coolant out of the degas bottle and up into the funnel. The coolant will stay there until the engine is shut off and you crack the degas bottle open.

Little deviation but I believe I have all the water out.

I'll still get pictures soon. I'd use my phone but I can't seem to leave anything stock and have a ROM on there right now which does not have the camera functioning

I'll do one better and use a friend's gopro for video.