X-pipe installation problems/questions.

[stevenscamaross]

So I finally receive my catback and UPR off road x-pipe yesterday. Perfect day outside today and I have the dayoff of work so I pull out the rhino ramps and drive up the ramps backward. I begin the removal of the stock catback at about 1 pm. It takes a total of 5 minutes to get it off. I start the car and drive off the ramps. Now I drive up them foward to lift the front in the air to remove the x-pipe. Driver side bolts come out nice and easy. I get to the passenger side and take out the back bolt first, comes off nice. Now the front bolt. SON OF A F*CKING B*TCH. I went from using extensions to my sockets to breaker bars to everything I could possibly think of to get this bolt off, no luck. So here it is 8 pm and my car sits out infront of my house with the stock x-pipe still on and the bolt is rounded off (and it's the only bolt left in). :nonono: So now I have to take it to Meineke (or another muffler shop) to have them take the bolt off for me with a inpact wrench.

I have a few questions about the x-pipe install. I noticed that there are 2 plastic plugs one for each side before the precats and two right after the cats one of each side as well. These are connected to metal plugs that enter the stock x-pipe. I unplugged all four of these plastic plugs but the metal plugs are still in the factory x-pipe. Looking at the offroad x-pipe, I notice there are 4 holes drilled with revets that these would fit in perfectly. Not to sound like an idiot or anything, but I'm assuming I need to unscrew these metal plugs and screw them into the offroad x-pipe and plug the plastic plugs back into them correct?

Sorry, it's been a long day. :bash:

Steven

 

[stevenscamaross]

ttt

 

[Fang]

That sucks about the bolt. I have read that on other threads. I personally have not removed my h-pipe but I heard that one bolt is a pain. Hope all goes well.

 

[loose nut]

Those four metal plugs are the O2 sensors...yes, you have to transfer them to the new x-pipe (I kept mine in the same relative locations).
Did you get "MIL eliminators"??? You will get a check engine light on the dash if you don't use MIL eliminators with the o/r x-pipe. They plug into the rear two O2 sensor plugs.

Sorry about the stripped nut. I used a 15mm swivel impact socket to get a snug fit...along with an impact gun to break it loose.

You are frustraited now...but it will be worth it.
Good luck. :beer:

 

[CGoeschel]

Yes, you have to remove those and screw them into the new x-pipe. Those are your O2 sensors.

Sorry didnt see the above reply. Does your new x-pipe have Cats? If it does, you do not need the MIL eliminators.

 

[stevenscamaross]

Thanks for the replies guys. I figured those were the 02 sensors but I was just making sure. Those things are in the stock H-pipe pretty tight. Did you guys use a wrench to take them out? The stripped nut shouldn't be a big deal and Home Depot has hundreds. I'm just alittle frustrated about the 1 nut screwing my whole night up. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a smile on my face.

I have the predator on order and that will take care of the Check Engine Soon Light. Any drawbacks about driving around with the light on till the predator gets here?

 

[CGoeschel]

Yeah, i used a wrench to take them out. One wouldnt come out, so i had to buy another one from parts.....not cheap, even at my employee price! Your x-pipe has no cats? Thats going to be crazy loud! Mine is almost too loud with the high flow catted x-pipe, but Im using the Borla Stinger as well.

 

[stevenscamaross]

Yea I'm hoping for crazy loud. 3 inch mac catback with 3.5 inch tips and the upr offroad x-pipe.

 

[03Sssnake]

Originally posted by loose nut

Sorry about the stripped nut. I used a 15mm swivel impact socket to get a snug fit...along with an impact gun to break it loose.

You are frustraited now...but it will be worth it.
Good luck. :beer:

Dead nuts on...The 15mm deep w/built in swivel is the only way to go. I tried with just a deep and swivel/ext, no way in hell was it coming, the deep plus swivel extension are too long, so I could never fully square up on that bolt...With a snap-on 15mm deep/built in swivel, came off in 2 mins...

 

[loose nut]

use an open end or flair fitting wrench on the O2 sensors...21mm I believe (double check that). You could use a good adjustable wrench also, but be careful. Stike the wrench abruptly to break the threads loose.

Somebody who has done this install more recently than I please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the OE nuts are what is called "stover" nuts, get them at an auto supply store...they are the crimped steel lock nuts (do not use nylocks either!!!!). :bash:

Keep asking questions please. We all went through the same thing at sometime.

 

[stevenscamaross]

Why no nylocks?

 

[loose nut]

Originally posted by stevenscamaross
Why no nylocks?

nylocks are single use only...and the nylon loses grip over time in the automotive exterior environment. It definatly isn't going to last long on an exhaust manifold. :beer:

 

[69gt4speed]

I went to autozone and borrowed their o2 sensor socket sets for my ol sho. 15, 30 deposit refunded on return. Nylocks would melt down, the nylon. I used to use brass nuts cause of your problems now stainless with neversieze. Always use a 6 point socket on pain in the a$$ nuts/bolts, use liquid wrench and a propane torch to heat up the nut only. watch out for fire too. Driveshaft bolts use locktite, the torch trick works good on locktite. There is also a new product for rounded nuts/bolts a special socket that digs into the metal don't know if they have deepwells or not or swivels, a good investment is 3/8, 1/2 impact universal can't bind up. :beer:

 

[fubu795]

I installed a MAC H-pipe along with the MAC 3 inch Cat-Back. Everything was simple to put on. The MAC H-pipe leaks air by the driver side collector bolt, there is no fix. I have a UPR X-pipe sitting in my bedroom waiting for a nice day to be installed. Its to damn cold here in Pittsburgh. Check out my website for videos, its the loudest cobra I've personally ever heard.

www.03cobra.net

 

[black10th]

I had to remove the studs on the drivers side header and turn them around when I installed my MAC o/r X pipe.....this solves the drivers side leak issue