Won't start...long

blksn8k

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Ever since last summer I have been having starting problems with my 99 Cobra. The problems started when I drove it to work one day and it would not crank in the parking lot after work. I had some co-workers push me down a slight grade so I could pop the clutch and it fired. The only way I could get it to crank after that was to add a separate ground wire from a starter mounting bolt to the chassis. I checked the red factory ground strap between the motor mount and the chassis but that did not seem to be the problem. I cleaned the connections at this ground even though they were not corroded. The factory ground strap did not have excessive resistance when I checked it with a volt meter. At this point I could at least drive the car.

Then I started having an intermittent problem with it cranking but not firing. Sometimes it would start with no problem and other times it would crank but not fire. Now it will not crank again. The battery is fully charged and I pulled the starter and had it checked. I also replaced my temporary ground wire from the starter with a heavier gauge pre-made ground strap since the wire melted when it would not fire. I also removed the factory ground strap again and checked and cleaned the connections again.

When I turn the key now I am getting a loud clicking sound at the starter but it will not engage. Also, now if I leave the battery ground terminal connected the battery discharges over night. The multi-meter is showing .85A current draw when I connect it between the positive battery post and cable, for whatever that's worth.

The car has extremely low miles and stays in a dry garage. I suspect it is still a ground or short issue but I have checked all of the obvious ground connections including those at the core support for the under-hood fuse/relay box.

I am about to call the local Ford dealer and have them haul it in even though I feel it could be something simple. Any ideas? Could it be a faulty ignition switch? Where is the ground connection for the EEC Power Relay? I assume at the core support. Has anyone experienced a similar issue on their Cobra?
 

MrBrain

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I havent driven my car a whole lot. But lately it happened to me that it wouldn't crank. But I just played around with the remote key a little an locked/unlocked the car. First from inside and that didn't help, then from outside and after that it cranked.

I know I have something strange in my car, I can't have the electrical harness connected to the center console at all, it will drain the battery in a couple of days :(

Your problem sounds like the starter solenoid or a dead battery. I'd check the battery first (a condition test) as you can charge it "full" but it appears as it has no capacity in it. Putting your Volt meter over the battery when cranking should also give some indication if the Voltage drops alot.
 

01vert

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"I also replaced my temporary ground wire from the starter with a heavier gauge pre-made ground strap since the wire melted when it would not fire. I also removed the factory ground strap again and checked and cleaned the connections again."

I would assume that since the smaller strap you added melted, that it was acting as the ground and the factory strap was not grounded as all the current went through it and melted it. If the factory one was good then it should have shared the load and the smaller cable not melted.

I would look to see that your positive cable is tight into the starter and is not shorted somewhere or kinked and damaged internally.

Rehook the ammeter and pull fuses from the box under the hood one by one till you find which one stops the current draw.

Good luck


oops forgot, battery needs a load test as it may be lunched with a bad cell
 
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wallie40

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I used to have a similar problem that you guys had prior to my Eaton/KB Swap. I found that the alternator was causing a parasitic drag which would cause the battery to die in 1-3 days. I found that there probally was a diode that went bad.
I also have a very low mileage car(20k or so) and I couldn't go from day to day.

Since my Eaton/KB swap I changed to the 03/4 setup and I left my car for 10 weeks and it fired right up like I had just left it. I tried replacing batteries but that was just a band aid for a couple of weeks.

There are others on the board that have had similar issues.

Do a search for Parasitic Drag.

-Paul
 

Hockeyman48

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Not sure of positive cable routing , but if you lift positive cable off of battery,then lift positive battery output wire off of alternator you can then use a test piece of wire to check for current draw with your meter to the alternator positive output stud to the positive post on battery. If the .85 amps shows up its a bad diode in alt. Replace it.
 
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blksn8k

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Not sure of positive cable routing , but if you lift positive cable off of battery,then lift positive battery output wire off of alternator you can then use a test piece of wire to check for current draw with your meter to the alternator positive output stud to the positive post on battery. If the .85 amps shows up its a bad diode in alt. Replace it.

Would a bad diode in the alt cause the no-crank issue with a fully charged battery? Thanks.
 

Hockeyman48

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No , it should not. If Im not mistaken a low voltage at battery 11.5 or thereabouts will not allow a crank.Ask tech at dealership.How old is your battery?Perform a load test as mentioned to rule this out.Did you check amperage draw at alternator post as mentioned?
 

blksn8k

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I went back and rechecked the no load current draw and found .14 Amps. Had the meter set wrong. Sorry.

Battery is an Optima Red Top, less than a year old and shows 13.19 Volts.

Alternator diode test shows 0 Amps current draw, assuming I did it right.

Just had the started tested again and it's good.

Just tried a different battery from a running car. No change.

Just to restate the current problem, the car will not crank. All I get is a loud click at the starter when I turn the key.

Would the fact that the last time it would crank but not fire indicate a bad ignition switch?
 

Hockeyman48

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Yes I think its possible to not get a signal through a bad contact for ignnition circuit but still have the crank circuit work. Without a wiring diagram I'm kinda guessing at the circuit logic for your ignition switch. With the click at the starter though, its wierd that it wont crank after all you have tested .I'm sorta out of ideas. you could have an intermittent problem with solenoid on starter,sometimes you get voltage to starter motor and sometimes you dont. Thats in the starter. All I've got! Good Luck!
 

blksn8k

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I still think it's a wiring problem based on how it has progressed. My next step will be to test the positive wires at the starter and solenoid.
 

Hockeyman48

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Sounds like thats where it will be.I've had cables look and appear good and test ok with some ohm meters but have corroded surface contact between wire and terminal lug down at starter/solenoid.Could check for that in your ground cables too.Good Luck
 
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blksn8k

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Cranking issue was a bad ground, just as I thought. The dealer replaced a body ground, apparently one that I couldn't see.

The no start was another issue. They had to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump and sending unit. They also replaced the fuel filter.

Runs and starts fine now. I'm happy. The car seems happy. Hell, everyone's happy. :beer:

fcf87a90mb6.jpg
 

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