Wiring a Line Out Converter, could use some input.

[ririck]

(If this is in the wrong forum, I apologize, mods please move it)

Hey all. I'm putting new speakers in my silverado, and i'm having some issues. I need your help.

The LOC is a PAC SOEM-4

Everything is working the way it's supposed to, the amp comes on, stereo works rear speakers work (They're spliced into for the LOC so i know that it's hooked up correctly) However, I get nothing from the subwoofer. The only thing I can figure is that the line out converter isn't hooked up correctly.

I have the "input" set to wired, and the "output" set to RCA, where my amplifier is plugged in.

The only thing I can figure is that it needs a power source? However, the 12V constant wire is on the OUTPUT side, which makes no sense to me?

The wiring diagram can be found in the link below, if you'd like to take a look at it. I have the blue/black wire grounded, and i'm utilizing the RR and LR inputs. The black wire is ungrounded, and constant remains unplugged as of right now.

Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

 

[Silver03]

Line out converter would mean you need some "output". lol sorry I got nothing for you. Good luck though.

 

[motoman991]

A line out convertor needs a power source? I have one on my car and I just have it hooked up to the two rear speakers. Is your amp on the correct channel? Have you messed with any of the switches on the amp?

 

[straightliner1]

According to the instructions:
* Yellow will get a 12 volt constant power. Wire this into the power wire you have feeding your amp and fuse it seperately with a 5 amp fuse.
* Blue black connects to chassis ground. If possible use the same ground as the amp to prevent ground loops. If this isn't possible, scrape the paint away, use a star washer and affix the wire with a good quality ring terminal, self tapping screw and a star washer.
* Blue goes to the "remote turn-on" wire that kicks the amp on and off.


How do you have it hooked up now (speakers and all)?

 

[piss&vinegar]

Ya, to add to what Straightliner1 said, wire the blue wire to the switch power which is typically red but make sure to verify with meter. If you need help with this just let me know. Sounds to me that the LOC simply just does not have power. I have done these in the past but never had one that required power but it also appears that the unit you have has active filters on it instead of passive filters which probably explains why the need for power.

 

[ririck]

Now I have a diff realm of problems, ha. I plugged in the LOC to the same power source as the amp, Grounded it at a different place, now when I turn my truck off, my stereo, amp, and LOC won't turn off, and the LOC is STILL NOT giving the amplifier a signal to send power to my speakers :shrug:

 

[piss&vinegar]

The amp requires a constant 12V but the amp also needs a remote 12 volt signal to tell it when to turn on/off and that is what switched power is for. The reason everything is staying on is that you have the switched signals wired to constant 12 V. Make sure you power the LOC, the remote input for the amp to switched power. You can test this with a voltmeter by finding the switched power in the stereo harness and turning the ignition over to accessory. If you have 12 volt then and only then you know you have switched power and that is what you want to use for the LOC and remote amp signal.

 

[ririck]

The amp requires a constant 12V but the amp also needs a remote 12 volt signal to tell it when to turn on/off and that is what switched power is for. The reason everything is staying on is that you have the switched signals wired to constant 12 V. Make sure you power the LOC, the remote input for the amp to switched power. You can test this with a voltmeter by finding the switched power in the stereo harness and turning the ignition over to accessory. If you have 12 volt then and only then you know you have switched power and that is what you want to use for the LOC and remote amp signal.

It's wired to switched power. The windshield wiper fuse.

I have the remote wire for the LOC stuck into the Remote slot on the amplifier, I figured it would make them both run to that fuse, do I need to run it's own wire there?

 

[red96cobra]

The remote wire should run to the power antenna wire coming out of your head unit

 

[NA97GT]

The remote wire should run to the power antenna wire coming out of your head unit

no, you want to connect to the remote output, unless its stock then you'll want to use a switched 12v.

I do these all the time as many of you know I'm a professional installer. Anyways this type of line out converter needs to be hooked up to both constant power and ground in addition to the speaker wire inputs. This system uses a signal sensing input to then provide a dedicated remote output for your amp. If you have a test light or multimeter check that your power connections are correct. Also be sure that the speaker inputs are connected to the correct wires (+ and -) to ensure polarity, if these are backwards or wrong it wont work right. Because you said it is staying on that leads me to believe that the part could possible be defective, if its hooked up properly. Check those and let me know whats going on.

 

[red96cobra]

You are right NA97GT. That is what I meant don't know why I said antenna.... Damn head cold! lol

 

[piss&vinegar]

I never saw a remote output on a stock unit when I did installs. I have seen power antenna which is typically a switched 12v so I think it would be ok to use in this case. Again, test it with a meter. If I could not find a switched power in the stereo harness I would look for one in the steering column but that did not happen often. Not sure how the circuitry in that particular loc works but if the Speaker outputs are hooked up incorrectly + to - then it may still work but will just put the speakers out of phase.