Window Switch problem(no blown fuses) NEED HELP ASAP

Hurrycanestang

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Hey guys, quick window switch problem (I hope). Went downstairs a few minutes ago and started the car and rolled my windows down to put my top down. Well the back left window which needs a lil help sometimes was being a PITA and wouldn't go down, so when I tried to put my other windows back up, all of them don't move! I hear the window switch module clicking so I know it has power to it and none of the fuses are blown. After researching I found the connections can get dirty over time and so I took mine out, took it apart, cleaned and put back together. Still the same as before. Im lost here...I daily the car so I don't want to drive and leave the windows down when I park obviously. I need to fix this somehow. If I can't fix it the proper way. Can somebody tell me how to hard wire the switch to a battery so I can roll it up? Thanks guys.
 

hotcobra03

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Hurrycanestang

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Well after going down to check it out today, started the car and the battery was seriously drawn down in power. I rode it Autozone and bought a replacement switch and found it did the same thing. So its not the switch itself. No blown fuses and not quite sure which relay they run off of.
 

Hurrycanestang

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Suppose f2-43 is the culprit, wouldn't this also mean my drivers side lock and unlock switch wouldn't work as well? It is still operational. Also you call it a "breaker" does this mean it can be reset just as a house breaker can be?
 

hotcobra03

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Read the testing..it tell what to inspect before test..

Says what fuses to check..3 fuses and 1cb..

A test light is what you need....or a homemade setup..2 wires on a 12v bulb..or anything that gets powered from 12 volts like radar detector..cell phone cig plug...

Those links will say when fuse gets powered or if all the time power..
 

Hurrycanestang

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I'm sorry, i didn't understand the first part, read the testing, it will tell what to inspect before test? And what three fuses? Please remember I'm not too savvy on electronics and the wiring diagram. It confused the hell out of me. If you know the fuse numbers I can find them. Thanks again!
 

hotcobra03

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Principles of Operation

Power Window Control

NOTE: Battery power and ground must be removed before disconnecting the GEM connectors to avoid setting false DTCs.

The driver power window one-touch down operation is controlled by the generic electronic module (GEM). This feature functions only when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACCY positions. The GEM determines ignition switch position by monitoring the key-in ignition, RUN/ACCY and RUN/START circuits. The one-touch down operation is requested of the GEM by momentarily pressing the driver window regulator control switch DOWN for 62 ms to 320 ms. The GEM uses the initial voltage input from the down switch to begin the one-touch down operation. If the voltage input was less than 320 ms, the GEM will maintain the voltage supply to the motor down circuit. The GEM will maintain the operation until:

seven seconds expires.
motor stall is detected by monitoring the current draw.
a voltage input is received by the GEM on either the up or down switch circuits.
The ground for one-touch down operation does not pass through the GEM. The ground is supplied through the driver window regulator control switch as with normal operation. If the GEM continues to see voltage on the down circuit for more than 320 ms after initial activation the GEM will not effect operation. The down circuit through the GEM is a direct connection to the motor in its normal state. This allows the driver window regulator control switch to control the motor for normal operation.

The passenger window motors are hardwired directly to the window regulator control switches.


Inspection and Verification

Verify the customer concern by operating the system.
Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.


Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
Power window regulator
Window run weatherstrip
Door window glass
Central junction box (CJB) circuit breaker 43 (20A), fuse 39 (5A) or 23 (15A)
Battery junction box (BJB) fuse HTD BL (40A)
Generic electronic module (GEM)
Window regulator control switch
Window regulator motor
Instrument cluster module (ICM)
Heated rear window relay
Rear window defrost switch
Heated rear window grid
Circuitry



If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.
If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool manual.
Carry out the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTIC TEST. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
CKT 914, CKT 915 or CKT70 - ALL ECUS NO RESP/NOT EQUIP, refer to Section 418-00 .
NO RESP/NOT EQUIP for the generic electronic module (GEM), go to Pinpoint Test A.
NO RESP/NOT EQUIP for the instrument cluster module (ICM), refer to Section 413-01 .
System passed, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the GEM or ICM.
If the GEM or ICM DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the GEM or ICM Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.
If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, proceed to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
 

Hurrycanestang

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I think I found the problem, I found a floating relay in the kick panel that looks tied into the regular system. It has a mount for a ground but wasn't bolted into anything. After a quick hold to metal I got the window to move up about 4 inches. I got cramped up being on the floor and being 6 foot 4 so I'm gonna go back tomorrow morning and finish mounting it properly. I took some pics of the relay I will post a little later tonight.

20140409_221136_zpsiktaqkjt.jpg


20140409_221012_zpssihundyv.jpg
 
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hotcobra03

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In stickys above theads..see read before you post

In here there is a mod to make passenger window 1 touch also..

It might require a relay added like you found..worth the look

But sounds like thats cause of problem if they moved
 

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