Wilwood calipers with stock brakes work ????

[stangn]

Ok so I was brain storming on how I hate the stock non brembo calipers. I see that wildwood has brake kits for 05- up in several versions but will just the calipers and mounting brakets work with stock rotors? Guess I could pull mine apart and measure everything however I can't be alone in this thought. Anyone else done this or looked into it? The 6 pot calipers are only like $320 and 4 pot rears are $300 each. Haven't priced mounts but the kits are big money, guess it's in the rotors.

 

[stangn]

Really! No one out there in the mustang world ever thought to do this?

Guess I'm out there to far on modifying my car, but painting my calipers isn't good enough.

 

[Voltwings]

Well, what exactly is it about them you hate? The non brembo calipers have virtually the exact same clamping force as the Brembos, the Brembos only advantage (aside from aesthetics) is their larger heat capacity and use of the 14" rotor (again, heat capacity).

Maybe i cant find the Wilwood kit you're looking at, but the two i see wouldnt be very useful at all, and in fact dont even see any designed to work with a ~13" rotor... would likely need to be a custom bracket.
Keep in mind, the 05-10 GTs had the same 12.5" Rotors the V6 has now. The V6 and GT actually share the same caliper, the carrier is just different to allow the GT the use of its 13.2" Rotors.

This kit uses a 12.9" Rotor, so obviously it wont do us any good since thats smaller than the GTs stock 13.2" Rotor.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/wilwood-superlight-rear-0512.html

These use a 14" rotor, but 6 pistons vs 4 pistons (on the Brembos) Really makes no difference in clamping force. More pistons just = more even pad wear under heavy braking (road course). I've seen it happen plenty of times with single, or even double piston calipers that the pad will wear at an angle; 4 and 6 pistons tend to alleviate that.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...2013&make=Ford&model=Mustang&option=GT+Models

^^ These are also $540 a pop
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd.aspx?itemno=120-13290-RD


Its a cool idea, but really as long as you stay with the stock rotor size, its going to serve virtually no purpose... Unless im completely misunderstanding what you're going for here?

 

[stangn]

Correct me if I'm wrong but clamping pressure is mainly control by braking pressure ( abs as well ). So you feel a 4 piston caliper will stop the same as a 6 piston will ? How about the rear a single to a 4 piston wilwood do you feel they brake the same?

The kit from wilwood with a "13" rotor is 140-9109 dr and the caliper is a 120-11779 rd and they are only about 320 from summit racing. The rear is 120-11782 rd caliper about 300 from same vendor.

I want more stopping power while drag racing so the rear is my main concern. I just can't use a huge rotor and a 15" wheel. So if I run a better caliper in the rear why not finish the job and do the front as well, again don't need a huge front rotor.

That's where my heads at anyway lol.

 

[mattaglover]

Correct me if I'm wrong but clamping pressure is mainly control by braking pressure ( abs as well ). So you feel a 4 piston caliper will stop the same as a 6 piston will ? How about the rear a single to a 4 piston wilwood do you feel they brake the same?

The kit from wilwood with a "13" rotor is 140-9109 dr and the caliper is a 120-11779 rd and they are only about 320 from summit racing. The rear is 120-11782 rd caliper about 300 from same vendor.

I want more stopping power while drag racing so the rear is my main concern. I just can't use a huge rotor and a 15" wheel. So if I run a better caliper in the rear why not finish the job and do the front as well, again don't need a huge front rotor.

That's where my heads at anyway lol.

The brakes you have are more than capable of stopping you for drag racing.

 

[Voltwings]

In my mind the hydraulic force is still the same since nothing in the way of lines, master cylinder, any of that jazz is changing, you're just changing the surface area of said force. Dont quote that as fact, thats just where MY head is at so to speak.

I use Centric premium rotors, Carbotech XP-10 (track pad, not recommended for street, squeaks and dusts like crazy) and with 295 NT-05s on all 4 corners i can still kick the ABS on with ~75% brake pedal application on stock non-brembo calipers. What this says to me is i still have WAY more brake than tire. Tires are what really determine stopping power, so i'm assuming you're using some kind of skinny up front, which is why you're having difficulty stopping? That does put you in an interesting position, but sadly drag racing is not really my Forte' so i dont know that i can help you there.

 

[vergil]

I agree with Voltwings. I upgraded mine with 4 piston brembo's and I don't feel a big difference over 2 piston stock calipers. I don't think upgrading especially rear brakes will give you more stopping power. The rotors you are looking for is like $300 each.

 

[debit_free_2010]

Correct me if I'm wrong but clamping pressure is mainly control by braking pressure ( abs as well ). So you feel a 4 piston caliper will stop the same as a 6 piston will ? How about the rear a single to a 4 piston wilwood do you feel they brake the same?

The kit from wilwood with a "13" rotor is 140-9109 dr and the caliper is a 120-11779 rd and they are only about 320 from summit racing. The rear is 120-11782 rd caliper about 300 from same vendor.

I want more stopping power while drag racing so the rear is my main concern. I just can't use a huge rotor and a 15" wheel. So if I run a better caliper in the rear why not finish the job and do the front as well, again don't need a huge front rotor.

That's where my heads at anyway lol.

Don't be going crazy with the rear brakes, the purpose of the rears are to keep the rear from coming around while the front brakes do the stopping. Also like the others said, the OE brakes have more than enough braking power to over power the tires and activate the ABS.

I'm running Hawk HPS pads with stock rotors and have no problem slowing down from 130 to make the 1st turn off. The problem with that kind of heavy braking is you'll burn the rotors off well before the pads. I got 40,000 miles on my 1st rotors and the HPS pads were still 50%, the front rotors were shot. I'm at 25,000 miles on my 2nd set of pads and OE rotors and I've not done as much racing this year so my rotors are in much better shape.

 

[stangn]

I'm trapping 129 now and yes it stops ok. Planning on building the motor and upping the boost. I just don't want to build a 750 hp engine and count on calipers designed for 420 hp that's all.

Thank you all for the input.