why in the name of jesus are brake lines so tight?

Quadcammer

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I get the whole not-leaking scenario, but for crying out loud.

Was attempting to install MM SS brake lines.

Got my flare wrench out, and went to work.

Nope, it started to strip and didn't budge a millimeter. I mean, yeah the car is 10 years old, but its always garaged and never really sees salt or snow (i.e. no rust).

I've used some pb blaster, let it sit for 2 hours, then hit it again with the PB. I'm going to try again tomorrow, but im concerned that its stripped badly on the sides I can't really see. Annoying, no question.

Any thoughts on what I can do to prevent this thing from stripping further and getting it loose with a minimum of frustration?

Thanks.


Oh, I got the new struts in (piece of cake), endlinks (same), and rack bushings (huge pain in the ass) done.

Cheers!
 

AntiHeightPunk

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had the same issue the other night with a friends head bolts....was the first failure to leave my garage...i will tackle it another night with air tools
 

brkntrxn

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I agree with KXT. Sounds like they have gotten to the point that you need to soak it again with more WD40/PB Blaster/etc and go at it with "pliers of mass destruction", aka vise grips, if you can get them on it.

Is this on the caliper or the other end?
 

Quadcammer

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they aren't THAT butchered that Im ready to resort to vice grips (although I think there is a special type that works pretty well).

This is the chassis end.

Pain in the ass.
 

VirtualSVT

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honestly the best way to get them is to get the wrench on there good and tight and then hit the wrench with something like the heel of your palm.

I've always had good luck with that. If you strong arm them they will strip.
 

brkntrxn

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honestly the best way to get them is to get the wrench on there good and tight and then hit the wrench with something like the heel of your palm.

I've always had good luck with that. If you strong arm them they will strip.

Or ping the wrench with a small hammer. I have had success with that as well. Since the heel of your palm is somewhat soft, the hammer "shocks" the wrench and nut/bolt you are removing.

Of course, by then I have usually lost patience and my temper and commenced to manhandling it. :bash:
 

Un4GivN

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Or ping the wrench with a small hammer. I have had success with that as well. Since the heel of your palm is somewhat soft, the hammer "shocks" the wrench and nut/bolt you are removing.

Very good advice, except I normally use the BFH.

Since you're using flare wrenches, the wrench should sit on the line without holding it, correct? Any chance you can get a foot to it and kick it? Rather than soaking it with PB blaster again, I would rather take a propane torch to it and heat it up a little bit.
 

Quadcammer

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all good options.

Its hard to get a good whack given the stuff in the way. I'll try hitting it with the propane tomorrow. Didn't get a chance to mess with it today.
 

CobraRed01

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Sucks trying to whack something when you've got about 2" of swing room. In some tight situations I've clipped my vise grips on the opposite end of the wrench to get extended leverage. It works if you have room. Watch the knuckles.
 

Quadcammer

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the PB worked, and I didn't need vice grips, so I got lucky.

Lines are on, fluid is flushed, and brake pedal is solid.

now I gotta wait for the snow to melt.
 

Quadcammer

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eh, given how much of the braking force comes from the front, Im not too concerned with the rears right now.
 

no_slow_svt

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heat, WD40, and when you really get mad you can spit on them.

heat seems to work the best.
but yes they r a pain, and if you can get them off without destroying them your doing alright.
 

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