yes, 6 pulls all done back to back, no cool down!
Why 5.0's owners aren't doing Long tube headers mod?
- Thread starter C5 KLR
- Start date
yes, 6 pulls all done back to back, no cool down!
Ive seen a lot more midpipe cars have better curves then LT guys it seems. Unless your F/I its useless
From my understanding they aren't very beneficial to us bc out cars come with stock shorties. Other cars such as LS based engines come with manifolds
I seen a install video for LT and I don't think is something I will be doing. Now if it was as easy as my 11 camaro than it would of been on top of my list in a hurry.
i did mine on 4 six ton jackstands on the floor in my garage. It really was not hard at all. A little intimidating at first but it was super easy.
How long did it take you? What brand?
Same here! But I lowered the back of my K member down and holy hell was it easy! Took me 6hrs by myself and saved a shit ton of money then paying some shop to do it.
Stainless works. It probably took about 10 hours since it was my first time. I can prob do the whole swap in around 6 now that i know what im doing. I didnt drop the K member though.
Is dropping the K member easier than lifting the engine?
they say it helps with some clearance to get the headers in. I didnt really have to much trouble. to get the pass side in i pushed the motor slightly towards the drivers side while my buddy helped feed it in. the second time i pushed and got it myself. I had a fitment issue and SW made me a brand new set of headers so I had to take them off and swap them out. Great customer service from those guys!
Couldn't squeeze in an extra 5 HP for an even 400 at the wheels?
Good to know. Our auto shop on base has lifts, so I won't have to use jack stands luckily. Any special tools you can recommend besides the standard regulars?
15mm gear wrench was a life saver for tightening the header bolts. I reused the stock studs and nuts. havent had a single issue with with them coming loose or leaking.
Think you for that post, now i wont even mess with LT's and just keep my O/R X pipe.
Yes it is. I lifted the motor off the mounts then I dropped the back of the k member down to ground then I lowered the motor with the jack down past the frame rails and from the wheel well all the headers nuts were directly in line with my eyes. I used an electric snap on gun to take off the all the nuts. I have stainless works also and re used all the stock studs and nuts and stock gaskets and haven't had one issue yet. Only tough part I had was putting in the passenger side header. I couldn't get it up past the studs so I took out the back 4 studs slid the header up and hung it on the first 4 studs then just threaded the back studs back in and put all the nuts back on and lifted k member back up into position. Also before I dropped the k member I traced every part I could get a marker on so when I put it back up I was basically back to where it was tightened down at the factory.
Did you read the first sentence of that thread? It says different days and 10 degrees hotter and more humid! That's going to have some serious affects on your numbers.
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