The cold air kit one that still uses the maf housing correct? I think the kit in the link below is the one I'll be getting!
http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=135_171&products_id=442
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Who has the High Boost intake with a SCT BA2600 and who tuned it?
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The cold air kit one that still uses the maf housing correct? I think the kit in the link below is the one I'll be getting!
http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=135_171&products_id=442
That's an insane amount of frustration, money, and questionable drivability to maybe gain 10hp. I feel sorry for the money and tuner effort being exerted. The factory maf w/mafia and factory inlet tube will support 700+ no problem. No tuning issues. No fitment issues. No water ingestion fear. Easily serviceable. Low cost.
Yep that's it. Its just the high boost with an adapter for the MAF. If you want to change just slap a bigger filter on it and drill out the hole on the side for your maf and drop it in.
Yes, the RAI style intakes are much easier to work/tune with but you lose the benefit of the cooler air charge you get by moving the filter into the fender/front bumper area which is a great way to lower IAT2s.
I'm piecing together a custom setup that I hope will be the best of both worlds. It's the high boost intake tube with a cap on the molded in MAF hole plus VMP's 100MM MAF conversion kit. So I'll have a slot style MAF at the end of the intake tube (inside the fender), then an 8" filter. This will be similar to JLT's latest CAI (not high boost) except it will have a slot style MAF and a larger filter.
I think this should get rid of the noise/inconsistency in low end MAF counts while retaining the benefits of having the filter inside the fender. I will definitely post pics and results in this thread when I have them.
I'm piecing together a custom setup that I hope will be the best of both worlds. It's the high boost intake tube with a cap on the molded in MAF hole plus VMP's 100MM MAF conversion kit. So I'll have a slot style MAF at the end of the intake tube (inside the fender), then an 8" filter. This will be similar to JLT's latest CAI (not high boost) except it will have a slot style MAF and a larger filter.
I think this should get rid of the noise/inconsistency in low end MAF counts while retaining the benefits of having the filter inside the fender. I will definitely post pics and results in this thread when I have them.
That's likely the one I'll be getting. If my amsoil filter is already bigger than what's provided in the kit, I'll use that.
I've not had any issue with IAT1 or IAT2. But I am running ethanol...and the tune doesn't pull timing until around 175 IAT2
This is a datalog after cruising and beating on the car for 45 minutes. It was about 88 degrees outside. Notice the IAT1 (aircharge) is 6 degrees lower than ambient and the IAT2 (downstream) is 27 degrees short of pulling any timing....and this is the top of a romp in 4th gear and 22+psi. This car pulls and pulls all day long. I think the only way it would approach pulling timing is if it was stuck in stop n go traffic on a very hot day. Once air is traveling over the nose, it lowers quickly. IAT2s are usually mid 120s cruising
I don't know if you can see the cooling benefits of E85 reflected in IAT2 readings but your cylinder temps will definitely be less compared to gasoline. It's good that you've got a nice buffer before timing starts being retarded, but your IAT2s would be even lower with a cold air style intake.
My motivation for keeping air charge temps down is simply to make more power. At any given volume of air, the cooler it is, the more dense it is. A higher density reading from the MAF will cause more fuel to be commanded which yields more power. :burnout:
I've not had any issue with IAT1 or IAT2. But I am running ethanol...and the tune doesn't pull timing until around 175 IAT2
This is a datalog after cruising and beating on the car for 45 minutes. It was about 88 degrees outside. Notice the IAT1 (aircharge) is 6 degrees lower than ambient and the IAT2 (downstream) is 27 degrees short of pulling any timing....and this is the top of a romp in 4th gear and 22+psi. This car pulls and pulls all day long. I think the only way it would approach pulling timing is if it was stuck in stop n go traffic on a very hot day. Once air is traveling over the nose, it lowers quickly. IAT2s are usually mid 120s cruising
Do you have long tubes and are you running a killer chiller? If no killer chiller then I don't understand how your IAT1 temps could be lower than the ambient temp.
I don't know if you can see the cooling benefits of E85 reflected in IAT2 readings but your cylinder temps will definitely be less compared to gasoline. It's good that you've got a nice buffer before timing starts being retarded, but your IAT2s would be even lower with a cold air style intake.
My motivation for keeping air charge temps down is simply to make more power. At any given volume of air, the cooler it is, the more dense it is. A higher density reading from the MAF will cause more fuel to be commanded which yields more power. :burnout:
Well, I wish you luck in your quest to get a solid system to work properly. Lower temps are obviously better....but there has to be a balance between cost and functionality. So far I have not seen enough data to prompt me to change....what I have works too well to mess with. But I am certainly going to keep eye on your findings. I'd really be interested in seeing datalogs to review these setups.
No long tubes, this car has factory '04 manifolds. No killer chiller. It has a factory inlet elbow, a factory maf and a blue open end 9" amsoil filter with a carbon fiber heat shield essentially right in the factory location.
I don't see how a killer chiller is going to help IAT1s....that sensor is right above your maf on the inlet elbow well before it enters the throttle body or blower. I think you're referring to IAT2 benefits of a killer chiller.
My IAT1 is below ambient here probably because at this snapshot on the datalog....I'm going about 135mph. That's 6200rpm at the top of 4th with almost 27" tall rear tires. Once you get airflow introduced, IATs drop, even without a killer chiller or cai.
On my old car the stock factory inlet tube didn't fit very well and the ribs wore the paint of my Powered by Ford SVT coil covers. Now with the second gen JLT on my car I have tons of room, it really fits great. I have at least a finger widths gap between the gen 2 and my powered by Ford coil coil covers.
Thanks. I don't disagree with you at all. It shouldn't be that big of a hassle to get it to work well and for most the juice is probably not worth the squeeze. But I really enjoy the tinkering/customization part of working on my car and it's fun for me to experiment with new things to improve performance. Doing your own tuning makes a huge difference too since you can take your time and you don't have to run back and forth to your tuner for small changes.
As promised, here are pics of my new frankenstein intake/MAF setup.
Consists of:
high boost intake tube with molded in MAF plate sealed
VMP 100mm upgrade kit w/ VMP 3500 slot style MAF sensor
The whole assembly is about 2 inches longer than the high boost filter but the silicon coupler is much more flexible than the filter. I should be able to angle it so that it doesn't touch the front bumper cover.
The rest of my car isn't ready to go yet so the actual results will have to come later.
Consists of:
high boost intake tube with molded in MAF plate sealed
VMP 100mm upgrade kit w/ VMP 3500 slot style MAF sensor
The whole assembly is about 2 inches longer than the high boost filter but the silicon coupler is much more flexible than the filter. I should be able to angle it so that it doesn't touch the front bumper cover.
The rest of my car isn't ready to go yet so the actual results will have to come later.
You do realize that the vmp 100mm maf is smaller inside diameter than the jlt intake tube. A better choice would be a jlt 110mm maf. I do like what you have done and you can get shorter filters to make it fit. Can't wait for results.
Sub'n for results also!
Yes, but the slot style VMP3500 has a higher ceiling than the BA2600 even in a larger housing. The VMP housing at 100mm is only 4mm smaller than the opening of the high boost tube which makes for a nice transition. It is also one of the shortest slot style housings you can get for our cars. My goal here is to have the cleanest MAF signal possible while hitting 700rwhp and keeping the filter inside the fender.
What pushed you to go this direction? I mean to clean up the maf signal?
I have no maf signal issues with my BA2600 in the JLT high boost tube. The maf val file was way off, but once tuned I haven't had any complaints.
I have no maf signal issues with my BA2600 in the JLT high boost tube. The maf val file was way off, but once tuned I haven't had any complaints.
This set-up has been installed in my buddys car (Bad93svt) and it seems to work well with his TVS setup. Justin at VMP is who came up with this idea and it cleaned up his MAFF signal A LOT. His drivability is also improved.
I have the next gen high boost on my car as well with a BA3000 and i'm thinking of either moving a MAF in the fender, or just buying a RAI and modify a head light to have a "ram air" effect. My car drives great but i'm not happy with my MAF curve and i'm still getting a lean spike at WOT.
I have the next gen high boost on my car as well with a BA3000 and i'm thinking of either moving a MAF in the fender, or just buying a RAI and modify a head light to have a "ram air" effect. My car drives great but i'm not happy with my MAF curve and i'm still getting a lean spike at WOT.
Did anybody figure this out? My car with a gen 1 high boost vs the gen 2 is a lot different at part throttle. STFT went from ~1.0 to ~.75. My tuner is working it out right now though. He definitely fixed the bad idle.
The two best solutions are to probably
1. Install a screen in the intake tube.
2. Put a filter on the end and plug the hole like Txenginerd posted.
The last option is to just hack the hell out of the maf curve.
The tube is bigger than the 90mm tube that the maf was plotted in. Therefore the maf transfer table needs to be tweaked a LOT. So much in fact that other things might get affected, such as calculated load at idle.
I ended up having to increase my "engine displacement" quite a bit to get the calculated load to a stable point.
"hacking the hell out of the maf curve" is actually the RIGHT way to tune it. Screens & other hardware manipulations would be the hack.
I ended up having to increase my "engine displacement" quite a bit to get the calculated load to a stable point.
"hacking the hell out of the maf curve" is actually the RIGHT way to tune it. Screens & other hardware manipulations would be the hack.
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