I am pleased to say, i have finished the install of my whipple supercharger this weekend! I started at around 4 pm friday, and had it running at 2:30 am Saturday morning. Whale i had the lower intake out i saw a lot of room for porting, so i did that as well. By the time i had that done i couldent feel my hands and had wrecked a $50 carbide bit! Im hopeing that effort went to good use, possibly a little better torque curve? Well heres the list of modifications I installed:
Black Whipple (gen 2) stock 3.5" upper
Accufab mono blade T.B.
4lb metco lower pully ring
4 100mm idlers (belt is EXTREMELY close)
JLT hi boost cold air intake (painted the same colour as my car)
60lbs Injectors
K.B. B.A.P.(40A relay wireing upgrade)
Snow performance Watter Methanal injection (Dual jet upgrade, installed in the lower intake so they spray just after the intercooler bolted to the blower)
S.C.T. maf 2600
3.2" alt pulley
dual Fans for my gords ford Intercooler (may or may not help?)
svt X3 tuner.
Now as for things that i would advise for people that want to install this stuff:
STOCK LOWER PULLY DOES NOT COME OFF!!!
lol! I had 3!!! guys pulling on a snap-on pry bar (3' long) with a 4' bar on top of that for more leverage! and still did not pop!
We had to stop in fear of braking somthing, the snap-on pry bar was starting to bend beond what looked normal..
The way that we finaly got it off was a bit crude but worked with a HELL of a lot less stress.. I had one friend in the car in 6 gear with his foot on the brake, one guy pulling on the pry bar(not hard at all) and i took my air hammer and just tapped the spoke of the pulley in a clockwise fashion and POP! it came loose.
When the stock lower comes off, I would strongly advise that you use some kind of thread restoring kit and restore the threads that are on the stock lower(used to mount new lower) just to be on the safe side, they looked a bit rusty on mine. Dont forget your locktite! I also found the way that the bolts went in felt like they were stripping at the end.. must be those washers they supply you with the kit. ( i think they were crush washers)
Also if you choose not to use the bracket on the side of the new Whippler you must replace the bolts (put them back in the holes) because for some strange reason thiese bolt holes are vaccuum ports! (found that out the hard way lol!)
Other then that i took my time and did not rush and im sure if you do the same you will not have any problems. The car started right up with just a base tune it purrrrrs like a kitten. The whippler did make a strange noise appon first start up that lasted about half a seccond( like gears grinding) but im assuming that was just the oil going through as it hasent done it again.
My car made a strong 406hp and 399 tq on a mustang dyno with just a intake and full exhaust. stock motor no pullies.
AS soon as i get it tuned i will let you guys know my new numbers..
I would also like to take the time to thank those who have shared there stories in the past as a ton of my information and research has come from this site.. Thank you!!
Andrew
PS: I would love to post pictures but i have no idea how to do that? Always makes the thread better!
Black Whipple (gen 2) stock 3.5" upper
Accufab mono blade T.B.
4lb metco lower pully ring
4 100mm idlers (belt is EXTREMELY close)
JLT hi boost cold air intake (painted the same colour as my car)
60lbs Injectors
K.B. B.A.P.(40A relay wireing upgrade)
Snow performance Watter Methanal injection (Dual jet upgrade, installed in the lower intake so they spray just after the intercooler bolted to the blower)
S.C.T. maf 2600
3.2" alt pulley
dual Fans for my gords ford Intercooler (may or may not help?)
svt X3 tuner.
Now as for things that i would advise for people that want to install this stuff:
STOCK LOWER PULLY DOES NOT COME OFF!!!
lol! I had 3!!! guys pulling on a snap-on pry bar (3' long) with a 4' bar on top of that for more leverage! and still did not pop!
We had to stop in fear of braking somthing, the snap-on pry bar was starting to bend beond what looked normal..
The way that we finaly got it off was a bit crude but worked with a HELL of a lot less stress.. I had one friend in the car in 6 gear with his foot on the brake, one guy pulling on the pry bar(not hard at all) and i took my air hammer and just tapped the spoke of the pulley in a clockwise fashion and POP! it came loose.
When the stock lower comes off, I would strongly advise that you use some kind of thread restoring kit and restore the threads that are on the stock lower(used to mount new lower) just to be on the safe side, they looked a bit rusty on mine. Dont forget your locktite! I also found the way that the bolts went in felt like they were stripping at the end.. must be those washers they supply you with the kit. ( i think they were crush washers)
Also if you choose not to use the bracket on the side of the new Whippler you must replace the bolts (put them back in the holes) because for some strange reason thiese bolt holes are vaccuum ports! (found that out the hard way lol!)
Other then that i took my time and did not rush and im sure if you do the same you will not have any problems. The car started right up with just a base tune it purrrrrs like a kitten. The whippler did make a strange noise appon first start up that lasted about half a seccond( like gears grinding) but im assuming that was just the oil going through as it hasent done it again.
My car made a strong 406hp and 399 tq on a mustang dyno with just a intake and full exhaust. stock motor no pullies.
AS soon as i get it tuned i will let you guys know my new numbers..
I would also like to take the time to thank those who have shared there stories in the past as a ton of my information and research has come from this site.. Thank you!!
Andrew
PS: I would love to post pictures but i have no idea how to do that? Always makes the thread better!
