Has anyone change there balancer to an overdriven one with a pd blower and did you have to change the water pump?
Whip and overdriven balancer
- Thread starter stangn
- Start date
Looking to add a good balancer and figure why not add a little boost while I'm at it.
Ati told me if I tried an overdrive with the 6 rib setup that it would bring on belt slip. They recommended a stock diameter or stepping up to a 10 rib drive and the 20% overdrive. I'm planning to do a stock diameter balancer from them.
Last edited:
Interesting. I might roll the dice on that deal anyway.. worst case just pulley the blower back up.
I've already broken one Whipple 2.75" pulley so going a little larger in that area might be a good idea.
I have a bit of a hard time following it really, as it will be a larger diameter pulley. I was thinking of doing the 20% and stepping to a larger upper (85mm) just to bring the boost back down a bit.
Maybe someone has tried it and can chime in.
Maybe someone has tried it and can chime in.
I have researched this. You can add the ATI pulley but you need an electric water pump to the tune of $995.00.
http://www.jpcracing.com/ati-performance-2011-13-5-0-coyote-harmonic-balancer-15-overdriven/
http://www.jpcracing.com/meziere-2011-coyote-electric-water-pump/
http://www.jpcracing.com/ati-performance-2011-13-5-0-coyote-harmonic-balancer-15-overdriven/
http://www.jpcracing.com/meziere-2011-coyote-electric-water-pump/
Last edited:
You can do the above for $1500+, or go to the frpp 10rib setup & 20% ati overdrive for over $2000 by the time your done, I know on the TVS blowers Steigmier can do the snakebite which is just overdrive gear in the snout, can go 2:1 gears which would make a 10lb pulley make 20lbs, don't know if he can do it on a Whipple, vmp is suppose to be making a 8rib setup with a 10% overdrive crank pulley for the TVS that comes with a new snout for around $2000, might could use it with a Whipple, you wouldnt need the snout but would need a 8rib upper pulley for the Whipple, I wish someone would make a 6rib overdrive crank pulley for the 5.0 cars, just not many options out there for us yet
Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. rbracingford is selling the 10 rib whipple conversion for $1250 on ebay
That is about $300 cheaper than anyone else plus $15 shipping.They had 3 and I just bought one.
I had swapped my TVS for a 2.9 whipple with 2.75 a week ago and the 6 rib belt is already a 4 rib!
That is about $300 cheaper than anyone else plus $15 shipping.They had 3 and I just bought one.
I had swapped my TVS for a 2.9 whipple with 2.75 a week ago and the 6 rib belt is already a 4 rib!
Thanks for the "heads up" olaosunt.
I am having doubts on belt slip being an issue for a couple reasons...
1) It will be a larger diameter crank pulley
2) People add smaller uppers (to a point) to 6 rib drives and increase boost that way (w/idlers) without slippage. I would think that adding a larger crank pulley to increase boost via the balancer would be a more effective way of increasing boost than adding a smaller blower pulley. At a minimum, how could it be "worse" or more likely to induce belt slip than running a smaller upper?
For me I thought about adding the 20% overdrive and just adding an 85mm or so upper for a modest boost increase. I have an 82mm currently and get no belt dust whatsoever.
Am I missing something? Can someone who knows, chime in on this?
1) It will be a larger diameter crank pulley
2) People add smaller uppers (to a point) to 6 rib drives and increase boost that way (w/idlers) without slippage. I would think that adding a larger crank pulley to increase boost via the balancer would be a more effective way of increasing boost than adding a smaller blower pulley. At a minimum, how could it be "worse" or more likely to induce belt slip than running a smaller upper?
For me I thought about adding the 20% overdrive and just adding an 85mm or so upper for a modest boost increase. I have an 82mm currently and get no belt dust whatsoever.
Am I missing something? Can someone who knows, chime in on this?
Last edited:
Justin @ VMP tuning has been working on a 10% overdrive setup with 8 rib for the PD guys give him a call. I think u need to change the A/C clutch also.
I ordered the standard ati. To much bullshit to deal with when the motor is still rocking junk rods and pistons. Should be able to recoop some of my money later when it all gets steeped up.
Whippe 10 rib conversion update
For anybody considering this it gets real expensive quickly:whine:
I managed to put together the Ford racing kit,ATI Damper and Thump tensioner for about $2100.I then bought a 10 rib 3 inch pulley for another $180.I thought I was all set... but was told by Lund,Cruz and Evolution I will need the revised alternator bracket Evolution developed on Cruz's car to keep from throwing belts.
I spoke to Fred earlier.He said the bracket was "not going to be cheap" given their "R&D" but yet to hear back how much.
He also said I had to send in the 2.9 to whipple for an up fit for the 10 rib.I spoke to Whipple and it is going to cost $600 plus shipping back and forth-ouch!
Is that right? I had thought only the 2.3L needed the up fit.Even with getting the whipple cheap off Cruz for $2000 might as well have bought a twin turbo(or centrifugal to make high boost) set up and sold my complete VMP kit.No one wants the TVS compressor on its own:nonono:
I think I may have to figure out how to make the six rib work.Going to ask my Tech to look again at the alignment and shave the brackets if needed.Any other suggestions?
Does any one know where I can get the belt?.I figure I will start with a brand new belt after I do those things.
Hoping I can return that stuff I already bought and not get killed with restocking fee if I can make this 6 rib work.Unless some one want to buy it off me:idea:
Lund,who is tuning the car said he was also concerned about how much heat I would make at 23 lbs(3 inch) of boost on the 2,9 and said I would need an Ice cell despite my heat exchanger.
For anybody considering this it gets real expensive quickly:whine:
I managed to put together the Ford racing kit,ATI Damper and Thump tensioner for about $2100.I then bought a 10 rib 3 inch pulley for another $180.I thought I was all set... but was told by Lund,Cruz and Evolution I will need the revised alternator bracket Evolution developed on Cruz's car to keep from throwing belts.
I spoke to Fred earlier.He said the bracket was "not going to be cheap" given their "R&D" but yet to hear back how much.
He also said I had to send in the 2.9 to whipple for an up fit for the 10 rib.I spoke to Whipple and it is going to cost $600 plus shipping back and forth-ouch!
Is that right? I had thought only the 2.3L needed the up fit.Even with getting the whipple cheap off Cruz for $2000 might as well have bought a twin turbo(or centrifugal to make high boost) set up and sold my complete VMP kit.No one wants the TVS compressor on its own:nonono:
I think I may have to figure out how to make the six rib work.Going to ask my Tech to look again at the alignment and shave the brackets if needed.Any other suggestions?
Does any one know where I can get the belt?.I figure I will start with a brand new belt after I do those things.
Hoping I can return that stuff I already bought and not get killed with restocking fee if I can make this 6 rib work.Unless some one want to buy it off me:idea:
Lund,who is tuning the car said he was also concerned about how much heat I would make at 23 lbs(3 inch) of boost on the 2,9 and said I would need an Ice cell despite my heat exchanger.
Has anybody done the calculations to figure out what RPM the 2.9 is spinning with the 2.75" pulley and stock damper? Whipple's max suggested RPM is 18000.
What can a person sell a 2.9 head unit for, and what does a 4.0 cost?
What can a person sell a 2.9 head unit for, and what does a 4.0 cost?
18500 at about 7500 rpm.
The ati comes in pieces and you have to bolt it all together. I do see where the alt Tensioner is very close to the damper but it sure looks like the back pulley for whip drive could be larger and clear the water pump.going to install ati soon and will see if the tensioner could be moved and a 20 o/o OD pulley could be on back of damper.
f this. With all this headache Im just going to get a beefcake special paxton.
The Paxton is certainly easy and cheaper. Does not have to be a headache though if you have the coin just buy a 2.9 with the 10 rib setup complete. It's 12k though... More than most want to spend even if they have it.
It's only a headache when you're looking to get every last bit out of the blower. Same as anything else really. These are built motor problems, not stock ones.
Users who are viewing this thread
