Planning on fixing my wheel hop problem with some new rear end bushings and upper and lower control arms. Which do you run and do they work?? Didn't have any wheel hop until I had my shocks changed so I'm figuring these should fix the problem.
Which Upper n LCA's Do You Guys Run??
- Thread starter DaJoker
- Start date
I wouldn't run aftermarket (solid) upper control arms with the triangulated 4 link on a bet.
I run the UPR double adj upper with poly bushings. I also installed poly bushings in the axel housing. I run Maximum Motorsport lowers.
I run Ford SVO uppers and Southside Machine lowers.
yup just get new stock rubber ones, unless this thing is Only going in a straight line at the track
no wheel hop whatsoever.. bbk upper and lowers basically these: BBK Mustang Rear Upper & Lower Control Arm Kit (79-98) 2526 - Free Shipping!..
this what you mean to avoid if i want a good set up for autocross?
Yes, see that pic, those 2 arms are now pulling against each other binding the rear suspension, this creates a condition called "snap oversteer" on corner exit because those arms are trying to force the rearend back to midline where it is not (as) bound up. The only thing you can do to make that worse is to add a panhard bar. If the car spend sit's life at a dragstrip then that's different. but you must have some "give" on those upper bars because they are opposing arcs. That's why everybody (MM, Steeda, Griggs..everyone) dumps those upper bars on their kits and replaces them with a torque (truck) arm or some other linkage.
i got maximum motorsports solid lowers, stock uppers. kyb shocks. and removed quad shock. no wheel hop here
Car is mainly a weekend car but we do have a motorsports track down here and I have been on it a time or two. Funny you mentioned Steeda, cause that's whose upper and lowers are going on the car as we speak. Steeda's G-Trac package has the steel upper control arms. Hope I didn't get the wrong parts but my car does see some road course fun, but only one lap at a time.
Interesting.
Well, if you look a little closer you can also see a Griggs panhard bar running along the bottom of that photo.
So, is this what you mean by "torque (truck) arm"?
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& if so, are they similar to a Watts link?
Don't notice any snap oversteer when cornering, but honestly, i don't know what that really is.
To me the car corners like it's on rails compared to a stock fox.
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Blacksheep1 thanks; i pulled this from Griggs:
Griggs Racing Products
their advice is to remove one of my upper control arms so apparently i need to determine which one or if it matters.
i left a message with Grigg's tech support line three days ago and again yesterday
oke:
they might be on vacation.
not my intention to "hijack someonee else's thread" here however i'd appreciate yours or anyone else's feedback and or suggestions.
Griggs Racing Products
their advice is to remove one of my upper control arms so apparently i need to determine which one or if it matters.
i left a message with Grigg's tech support line three days ago and again yesterday
oke:they might be on vacation.
not my intention to "hijack someonee else's thread" here however i'd appreciate yours or anyone else's feedback and or suggestions.
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The problem with any arm in the Fox 4 arm suspension is ARTICULATION.
The factory deals with this by using such a soft bushing, the bushing itself will allow for articulation. The thin stamp steel arm may even twist a bit too, allowing for articulation.
The aftermarket and all the uneducated consumers try to sell you a very strong arm and a solid or stiff polyurethane bushing. Now when you articulate the rear axle the arm and bushing do not allow for articulation so the axles brackets are not going to give, the arms not going to give it`s the attaching brackets, many know as torque boxes.
Eventually they rip from the frame.
The only solution in a 4 arm system is to run some sperical joints or heims. Maximum Motorports seems to be one of the only companies to recognize this.
The factory deals with this by using such a soft bushing, the bushing itself will allow for articulation. The thin stamp steel arm may even twist a bit too, allowing for articulation.
The aftermarket and all the uneducated consumers try to sell you a very strong arm and a solid or stiff polyurethane bushing. Now when you articulate the rear axle the arm and bushing do not allow for articulation so the axles brackets are not going to give, the arms not going to give it`s the attaching brackets, many know as torque boxes.
Eventually they rip from the frame.
The only solution in a 4 arm system is to run some sperical joints or heims. Maximum Motorports seems to be one of the only companies to recognize this.
Well said, but having used the spherical heims on a trianagulated 4 link I can tell you that even that is a band aid and does not solve the problem
i dont have them yet but im rebuilding the rearend and when i get everything ready to bolt back in im goin with SVE tubular control arms. its not a bad price for both upper and lowers. then again im kind of on a tight budget and its only a summer weekend driving car.
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