Which PC package is the best deal?

FloridaSvt07

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I'm looking to get one of the PC packages off of autogeek, but can't quite decide which one to get. For polishes, I'm leaning towards the menzerna, heard it was top of line. These packages don't seem to have the pads I would need. I plan on using the CCS orange pad followed by white then blue. How many of each will I need? When using the foam pads, are the pad conditioners necessary or no? Also, could somebody explain the alcohol rub down after you polish an area on the car, how do I mix it? Sorry for all of the questions. I plan on doing the car this saturday and want to do everything right. Here's a few links to the PC packages, most likely you all have seen them. Let me know what you guys think, like buying everything seperate, or the package..etc. Thanks!

http://autogeek.net/hk7424.html

http://autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-cable-intensive-shine-kit.html

http://autogeek.net/popoprkit.html
 

mblgjr

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In his setup you would go in this order:

Swirl remover 3.0; Klasse AIO; Finishing Glaze 3.0; Sealant 3.0

Given that order, use this color pad: orange; white; blue(or black); black

Aquawax is a great after-wash touchup product and lasts quite a while as well. This setup will really make the metallic pop.

Depending on how bad your swirls are; I would also recommend this setup; I've had great succes with it on my Redfire (your sister color...just red, haha)

http://autogeek.net/optimum-porter-cable-kit.html

ADD: http://autogeek.net/optimum-opti-seal.html

I would add two 5.5" CCS Orange pads (one for Compound; one for Polish)
http://autogeek.net/ccs-5-5inch-foam-buffing-pads.html

This is optional but it works out cheap if diluted and works great over the OptiSeal, is durable unto itself and REALLY makes the metallic pop.. http://autogeek.net/optimum-instant-detailer-32oz.html

With my setup; it will vary for how bad your swirls are to start.

*Most* cars will only need this procedure:

Orange/Polish; white/polish (*or white/PoliSeal); OptiSeal by hand

If you have worse swirls or problem areas:

Orange/Compound; Orange/Polish; White/Polish (*or white/Poliseal)

IF (and thats a big IF) your car was well cared for and you only have the lightest bit of shadow swirls; you can get away with White/Polish ONLY and follow with your LSP (OptiSeal).

PoliSeal has 1/2 the cutting ability of Polish and is a hybrid Sealant/Canauba product that works great as a maintenance product and is similar to Klasse AIO, but has a nicer look and more durability, though probably a little less cleaning ability.

Opt. Products work well via rotary or PC and thus when working via PC have longer working times. PC's work easier and are more effective with a smaller pad, which is why I suggest using the 5.5" pads to make things go a bit better and they are easier to control and fit on some Mustang panels a bit nicer too.

OptiSeal is great on metallics and makes mine pop nicely. Very wet and nice durability, super easy to apply as well.
 

mblgjr

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You recommend the Wolfgang products over the others? I don't really understand the steps if you include the Klasse and a sealant?

The newer WG products offer a pretty nice bang for your buck, esp. the new 3.0 Sealant.

Menz. is nice but the extra coin isn't always worth it for the first timer or for low-volume jobs because of the large qty. they make you buy.

Optimum achieves Menz. quality results at lesser cost, esp when working on anything other than black.
 

FloridaSvt07

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The newer WG products offer a pretty nice bang for your buck, esp. the new 3.0 Sealant.

Menz. is nice but the extra coin isn't always worth it for the first timer or for low-volume jobs because of the large qty. they make you buy.

Optimum achieves Menz. quality results at lesser cost, esp when working on anything other than black.
This will be the first time I have ever used an orbital so I want to go with a cheap effective product. Sounds like most of the brands work, just personal preferance. Is the optimum compound equivalent to say poorboy's SSR 2.5. The wolfgang swirl mover looks to be only one step where as opt looks to have 3? Also which pads will work better the 5.5in or the traditional 6.5?
 

mblgjr

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Just for clarification; a PC is a random orbital not a rotary/orbital only...which is why its safer to work with but takes longer as well. The trade off is worth it for ease of use and peace of mind safety.

OC is stronger than SSR2.5; its more like 3 probably. OP is like 2.5 but has more initial cut and finishes better. Both the Opt. products are more pad-reactive and have a greater working range than the SSR's. The Opt. line is better *overall* than the SSR's to me as they cut/finish nicer and don't dust compared to the SSR's. HOWEVER, the SSR's do what they do nicely and have much shorter working times via PC.

Menz. falls in here as well; their stuff works great its just a matter of your choice if you want to spend the coin and be done. But like I mentioned earlier, I don't know that the cost increase is worth it over the Opt. unless working on black.

I prefer the 5.5" pads for the most part because they increase the effectiveness of the PC and fit the contours of the Edge bodystyle a little nicer (like the tops of the door panels and fenders). Most kits also include a 5" bp; which is MUCH better suited (and meant for) the 5.5" pads. Though most kits include the 5" bp and 6.5" pads; which makes the pads curl up and makes excess vibration because the edges of the pad will "flap" or flutter. If you want the 6.5" pads; get a 6" bp. Its worth it.

As far as the WG products; Mixxer would know best, I really haven't used them nor researched so can't comment. I do know they've improved their product line a lot over the past year.
 
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mixxer

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Acuallywhat matt said is right except KLASSE after that glaze because its not really a glaze its a finish polish and the klasse is to clean and prep paint for sealant.
 

mblgjr

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Acuallywhat matt said is right except KLASSE after that glaze because its not really a glaze its a finish polish and the klasse is to clean and prep paint for sealant.

Sorry, didnt know the Glaze was a FP.

Does Klasse AIO not have about the same cut to it? :dw: I would think they'd be pretty close

How does the WG lineup relate to the Menz. lineup? IE relate say...IP to one of the WG products...(if possible) cut-wise. Other than shorter working times for PC use, I don't much see how the Menz. line could actually be MORE user friendly than it is :-D

Thanks! :beer:
 
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mixxer

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thewolfgang glaze is very similair in cut to 106 and the swirl remover is like SIP. Klasse has no abrrassives only chemicals for cleaning and sealing but will cut alittle due to pad used. The wolfgang polishes dont dust as much as menz and also are not humidity finiky.
 

FloridaSvt07

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mblgjr

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The Klasse isn't a "got too" it mainly acts as a paint cleanser really that provides a nice clean surface to put your base on. To me its optional, but I know its part of Mixxer's (and others) process.

You're not going to go wrong with either of those kits you posted. Just add OptiSeal to the Opt. lineup. I really think you'll get great results with either; I just don't have a lot of experience with the new WG lineup.

BTW, the Klasse would be applied via PC, speed 6/white pad, treat it just like a polish. Apply a small amount and work it until it goes clear/flashes over. Its easy to work with.
 
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FloridaSvt07

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Appreciate the feedback mblgr and mixxer! Im going to purchase 2 orange and white 5.5 CCS pads and one blue or black pad should do for the sealants. Will the pc be able to correct small scratches if worked long enough? I know any of the scratches that are caught by a fingernail need to be touched up or corrected by a rotary. I'm looking foward to detailing the car this weekend, hope everything goes well!
 

mixxer

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IMHO the klasse is a must use if your using a sealant to allow it to bond correctly. Another option would be use the 601 and 105 duragloss combo That would cut out the klasse and duragloss is similar to zaino.
 

FloridaSvt07

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So all I would need to get is just the small bottle of Klass KIO and apply this before the sealant? I heard it takes about 12 hours to cure?
 

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