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SN95 Cobras
Which Cobra to buy.
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<blockquote data-quote="RSbeast" data-source="post: 10267322" data-attributes="member: 110560"><p>I've had both. I think the 4v's respond to bolt ons VERY well stock and run great. If my 4v was a coupe with more gear; I'd take it all day every day over a 5.0 variant with the same mods. One car will go low 14s; the other will go high 12s. Cold air, gears, hpipe, catback.</p><p></p><p>The 5.0 will take h/c/i to get to 300rwhp whilst the 4v will go with boltons and a tune.</p><p></p><p>The TORQUE difference however is night and day as I loved my 5.0 around town more. The 4v has much better manners and none of the 94-95 trivial drivability issues with hanging idles and so forth.</p><p></p><p>Starting with a GT is $$. A cobra isn't going to be THAT much greater but it's arguably cheaper. We did a budget build on my brothers 94 cobra.</p><p></p><p>190lph fuel pump > a must as the stockers are usually ailing by now anyhow</p><p>regulator w/ gauge > a must as these cars are very sensitive to fuel pressure and timing</p><p>stock iron gt40 heads > treated to a port/gasket match</p><p>back cut/swirl polish .1mm valves installed</p><p>comp springs</p><p>scorpion 1.6 RR rockers</p><p>ford racing f-cam .512/.512</p><p>C&L cold air</p><p>summit 75mm throttle body> gasket matched throttle opening on upper</p><p>gasket matched lower intake</p><p>egr delete</p><p>smog delete</p><p>ac delete</p><p>longtubes</p><p>offroad x pipe</p><p>spintechs/dumps</p><p>MSD coil/cap</p><p>3:73 gear</p><p>SCT 4 bank chip/ Streetlethal Dynojet tune</p><p>Zex 125 shot</p><p></p><p></p><p>On motor the car did 301/330 iirc and 398/510 on the bottle</p><p></p><p>Street tires on our slow (literally and known uphill QCR) local track on street tires it went mid 13 @ 103/104 iirc. On the bottle it spun badly to a 13.2 or so at 113</p><p></p><p>I believe a set of tires wouldve set this car into the 12s n/a; albeit higher. On the bottle its tough to say, but at least lower 12s would be capable.</p><p></p><p>Car was sold for another LS1. </p><p></p><p>You can figure out the cost on your own; but I'm sure you're realizing it slowly as its not free and you are definately getting into the engine. That said a cammed 5.0 sounds alot cooler than an underwater 4v and the around town torque and grunt is an absolute blast. The downfall is that you will still shift this car max around 6k whereas you pick up another 1k+ rpm with the 4v and it really does help up top.</p><p></p><p>It's more of a question of where you want to be making power and the use of the car. You have a 4v so try the 5.0; its going to behave very differently for similar track results.</p><p></p><p>My AFR165/tfs stg1 .498/.510 car...blah blah did 296/315 with .010 too long of pushrods breaking up past 5k on a MUSTANG dyno and ran a best of 13.3 on street tires at 107.9 on the same track. Obviously one dyno reads lower; but after the correction of pushrods I shifted at 6100rpm. The afr's and the favorable cam really shined; the performer 5.0 intake made great street tq; kinda hated it for rpm.</p><p></p><p>With an s-trim on that combo I lost a rear main and oiled the clutch at 392/389 at 5k and 8psi with no timing. I never had it back to the dyno after but shifted at 6100 and 11psi redline. I'd guesstimate @ 430rwhp + - by the track numbers both goofed and after the cars it ran with after I resolved some issues. (intake/lt/x/catback) LS3 vette that went 12.6 @ 116 stock from various rolls.</p><p></p><p>Also sold to buy an LS1 lol........however you can see what I ended up with for other reasons. </p><p></p><p>I've yet to install my t-trim; and I'd like to forge the car first. The only things I can say with confidence is that my car is heavy (3620) and is severely lacking in the torque department. I sure hope some boost fixes it or I am going to be SEVERELY PISSED to loose big $ the second time around aswell. </p><p></p><p>Resolve? Sell your crap and buy a terminator or something with displacement</p><p></p><p>Very helpful right? <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RSbeast, post: 10267322, member: 110560"] I've had both. I think the 4v's respond to bolt ons VERY well stock and run great. If my 4v was a coupe with more gear; I'd take it all day every day over a 5.0 variant with the same mods. One car will go low 14s; the other will go high 12s. Cold air, gears, hpipe, catback. The 5.0 will take h/c/i to get to 300rwhp whilst the 4v will go with boltons and a tune. The TORQUE difference however is night and day as I loved my 5.0 around town more. The 4v has much better manners and none of the 94-95 trivial drivability issues with hanging idles and so forth. Starting with a GT is $$. A cobra isn't going to be THAT much greater but it's arguably cheaper. We did a budget build on my brothers 94 cobra. 190lph fuel pump > a must as the stockers are usually ailing by now anyhow regulator w/ gauge > a must as these cars are very sensitive to fuel pressure and timing stock iron gt40 heads > treated to a port/gasket match back cut/swirl polish .1mm valves installed comp springs scorpion 1.6 RR rockers ford racing f-cam .512/.512 C&L cold air summit 75mm throttle body> gasket matched throttle opening on upper gasket matched lower intake egr delete smog delete ac delete longtubes offroad x pipe spintechs/dumps MSD coil/cap 3:73 gear SCT 4 bank chip/ Streetlethal Dynojet tune Zex 125 shot On motor the car did 301/330 iirc and 398/510 on the bottle Street tires on our slow (literally and known uphill QCR) local track on street tires it went mid 13 @ 103/104 iirc. On the bottle it spun badly to a 13.2 or so at 113 I believe a set of tires wouldve set this car into the 12s n/a; albeit higher. On the bottle its tough to say, but at least lower 12s would be capable. Car was sold for another LS1. You can figure out the cost on your own; but I'm sure you're realizing it slowly as its not free and you are definately getting into the engine. That said a cammed 5.0 sounds alot cooler than an underwater 4v and the around town torque and grunt is an absolute blast. The downfall is that you will still shift this car max around 6k whereas you pick up another 1k+ rpm with the 4v and it really does help up top. It's more of a question of where you want to be making power and the use of the car. You have a 4v so try the 5.0; its going to behave very differently for similar track results. My AFR165/tfs stg1 .498/.510 car...blah blah did 296/315 with .010 too long of pushrods breaking up past 5k on a MUSTANG dyno and ran a best of 13.3 on street tires at 107.9 on the same track. Obviously one dyno reads lower; but after the correction of pushrods I shifted at 6100rpm. The afr's and the favorable cam really shined; the performer 5.0 intake made great street tq; kinda hated it for rpm. With an s-trim on that combo I lost a rear main and oiled the clutch at 392/389 at 5k and 8psi with no timing. I never had it back to the dyno after but shifted at 6100 and 11psi redline. I'd guesstimate @ 430rwhp + - by the track numbers both goofed and after the cars it ran with after I resolved some issues. (intake/lt/x/catback) LS3 vette that went 12.6 @ 116 stock from various rolls. Also sold to buy an LS1 lol........however you can see what I ended up with for other reasons. I've yet to install my t-trim; and I'd like to forge the car first. The only things I can say with confidence is that my car is heavy (3620) and is severely lacking in the torque department. I sure hope some boost fixes it or I am going to be SEVERELY PISSED to loose big $ the second time around aswell. Resolve? Sell your crap and buy a terminator or something with displacement Very helpful right? ;) [/QUOTE]
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