Wheel Studs, Moroso Vs. ARP

Which studs should I buy?

  • ARP 100-7723 for $50 per side

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • Moroso 46180 for ~$15 per side

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • ARP 100-7703 for ~$15 per side and ream out the hubs

    Votes: 1 11.1%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .

Blk04Snake

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I've been out trying to install ARP wheel studs on my car and ran into problems. Turns out I believe I got the wrong studs.

Here's what I have: ARP 100-7703

arp-100-7703.jpg


Says they are 3.5 length and 0.625" knurl

Here's the Moroso 46180 stud:

MOR-46180.jpg


3" length, 0.615" knurl

Here is the ARP 100-7723 stud that they say are for 05+ Mustang

IMG_0028.jpg


This has 3.115" length and 0.615" knurl

Here's the kicker.. The ARP's that don't fit, and the Moroso's run around $15 for a set of 5. The ARP for the 05+ Mustang run about $50 for a set of 5.

So what I'm wondering is what would SVTP do? Skimp on the $$ and put in the Moroso's or pony up and buy $100 worth of ARP studs? As it is already I need to buy a new hub for one side because I ruined the holes in it trying to install the ARP studs that are too big. I'd rather not try to ream the holes out in the one hub I haven't ruined yet or the new one that I have to buy.

Also see this thread comparing them in pictures:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-211/720919-arp-rear-wheel-studs-install.html
 
Last edited:

mrose75

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Man, whatever you do, don't skimp out and buy Autozone studs... I went with OEM studs from Tousley.
 

jdgt03

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Moroso for me, ive owned several sets never had a problem. ARP makes great stuff, i use them for engine fastners, rear end, ect... I just dont see the reason to spend that much money per side. Moroso has been around for yrs also making drag special stuff.
 

T-Pain808

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I belive arp have a coating, and moroso doesnt, thats why they cost more. Personally went though the same thing, and Im glad I got arp's. Wouldnt want it to start rusting, but then again it always rains here.
 

cobracide

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I belive arp have a coating, and moroso doesnt, thats why they cost more. Personally went though the same thing, and Im glad I got arp's. Wouldnt want it to start rusting, but then again it always rains here.

ARP's are zinc plated to prevent corrosion. This gives them that gold color.
 

black 10th vert

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As mentioned in your other thread, I used the ARP ones, and it must have been the '05-up ones, because they looked just like your pic, and dimensionally were the same, right down to the .615 knurl. Those were also the ones I had to grind the flat on the head, though, because it must be a larger diameter than the ones you tried. I ended up paying around $60 for 2 packs of them through a local speed shop.
 

SVT10TH#1721

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I just installed mine on Friday I got them from summit for $9.99 for a pack of five (they beat jegs price). Part number 100-7703 and they look like the second pic where its next to the stock ones. I didnt have any trouble what so ever installing them. Your doing the back right?
 

T-Pain808

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Wrong size, thats why i went with lethal performance, but like I said before if your worried about rust then go arps
 

MVD

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I drilled out my front hubs and put the 7703 ARP's with the 0.625" knurl in the front and rear on my car. I wanted the extra meat since the stud is so long. 3 years now and ZERO rust :-D
 

Black10thSVT

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I used the moroso .625 on my rear hubs. the .615 are for the front if I remember right. Their will be no washers, nuts, and breaker bars used to install these. I had to open the hole in the hub, taper the start of the spline on the stud. And use a press. It was a 12ton. It almost was not enough.
 

Blk04Snake

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I just installed mine on Friday I got them from summit for $9.99 for a pack of five (they beat jegs price). Part number 100-7703 and they look like the second pic where its next to the stock ones. I didnt have any trouble what so ever installing them. Your doing the back right?

I'm not sure how the 7703 can look like the picture where it's next to the stock stud. I'll have to take a pic of the 7703's I got next to a stock stud. The knurls go all the way to the end of the shoulder like the first picture.

If you're drilling/reaming out the holes in the hub I'm sure they'll work fine but I'd rather avoid that so that's why I'm going with the Moroso's. New hub, 10 Moroso studs, and 12 open end Gorilla lug nuts will be here Wednesday $196 total shipped.
 

SVT10TH#1721

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I'm not sure how the 7703 can look like the picture where it's next to the stock stud. I'll have to take a pic of the 7703's I got next to a stock stud. The knurls go all the way to the end of the shoulder like the first picture.

If you're drilling/reaming out the holes in the hub I'm sure they'll work fine but I'd rather avoid that so that's why I'm going with the Moroso's. New hub, 10 Moroso studs, and 12 open end Gorilla lug nuts will be here Wednesday $196 total shipped.

Never mind I just looked again and they do look like the first pic. I guess a lot of anti-seize and a cheater pipe is what helped because they didn't seem any harder than any other studs I've done. I used the stacked washer and nut method to bring them in. :)
 

bb97gt

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Very easy install. I used the 100-7703s in the rear and bought the fronts from MM, not sure what part number they are but they were $8 a piece. They all pulled right in after sitting in the freezer and with the help of anti-seize.
 

Satyr

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Kind of bringing this back, but I couldn't find a general consensus as to which studs fit the stock hub without redrilling. I see the kits on Lethal's website, two of which are 15/set (ARP and Moroso). They advertise the proper knurl size but, according to what I have read in other threads, people couldn't get them to work.

So, in short, who's running the ARP 100-7703s or the Moroso 46180 without redrilling the hub? MM says on their site that hte Moroso 46180 will require drilling, just for reference.
 

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