Hey everyone, just as the title says I'd like to know the correct part number for the ARP 12 point header bolts. Also where is the best place to get them from? Thanks! :beer:
What's the ARP header bolt part number?
- Thread starter BoosT_AddicT
- Start date
771-1003, are the stainless 12 points bolts to bolt the exhaust to the head, I just got them and will hopefully be installing my longtubes today. I ordered straight from ARP so I could get them here for this weekend, but you can get them cheaper from LFP, you'll just have to wait for em a little longer...
Awesome... Thanks!
GL. man... I put them in yesterday and they are a bitch to thread in by hand... makes it tough to get them started... dont tighten them all the way at first either, leave them out a little so you can get the ones towards the back of the truck in too... have fun!! What gaskets will you be using?
I chased out all the threads in the heads before I put in my ARP bolts since the holes were gunked up from antisieze from the last set of chitty stage 8's I had in there, and they threaded right in NO problemo.
Also should use OEM gaskets, they're by far the best header gaskets!
Also should use OEM gaskets, they're by far the best header gaskets!
Thanks for the tip...
I'm still contemplating on gaskets... I really really don't want to get new Ford ones since they are $90 for a set. I found some Percy's seal for good gaskets. They are softer multli-layer aluminum that conform to header flanges. Do you have any suggestions otherwise? What did you use?
I reused my stock ones, but i'm afraid I may regret that.... I shot some brake kleen in my header holes, but I guess chasing them wouldv been the right thing to do.... :bash:
Why would you regret using the stockers? As I said, they're one of the best header gaskets you're going to find. I'd glady pay $90 for another set to know I'd have ZERO exhaust leak problems. Nothing worse than all that work doing the full exhaust, then a manifold leaking lol
I've reused mine 4 times so far. Stock from the stock manifolds, to reusing them with LFP LT's, then reusing them again with the JLP CR setup, and then reused them again after I swapped motors and put the JLP CR back on.
I've reused mine 4 times so far. Stock from the stock manifolds, to reusing them with LFP LT's, then reusing them again with the JLP CR setup, and then reused them again after I swapped motors and put the JLP CR back on.
If thats the case I'm just going to re-use the stockers... :beer:
Oh that makes me feel 100 times better... I had read somewhere that these stock gaskets were a one time only deal... I hear a ticking coming from under the truck somehwere, I figured that was the problem... maybe I'll just tighten up again and see what happens... thanks for the info!
are the block/heads aluminum on these trucks? If so be careful when torquing down the bolts cause you can very easily strip the threads in the head, and be sure not to cross-thread!
I only say this cause there are a ton of guys over on my gto forum that have screwed up their aluminum block/head on the LSx motors by torquing too tight or cross-threading the bolts during install.
I only say this cause there are a ton of guys over on my gto forum that have screwed up their aluminum block/head on the LSx motors by torquing too tight or cross-threading the bolts during install.
yep they're aluminum.
definiately gotta be careful, especially using SS bolts.
I always hit them with antisieze, and the area is so tight, its hard to over-torque them with a 4-5" open end wrench, but they can be cross threaded easily, which is why I chase all the holes before doing headers so I know the threads are clean and its not just dirt if the bolt is fighting starting it.
definiately gotta be careful, especially using SS bolts.
I always hit them with antisieze, and the area is so tight, its hard to over-torque them with a 4-5" open end wrench, but they can be cross threaded easily, which is why I chase all the holes before doing headers so I know the threads are clean and its not just dirt if the bolt is fighting starting it.
What do you guys use to chase the holes? A tap and die set? If so where can I pick up a decent set that will work for this? Thanks!
I picked up a set off summit racing. Full tap & die set for metric. Was like 30 bucks.
Really you should use a thread chaser though, and not a tap. The chaser will just clean the threads out, without tapping new material. So ideally you want a M8x1.25 thread chaser. If you use a tap be very careful cuz its easy to start cutting new material. One thing I was worried about is making the holes too clean and smooth and bolts backing out. I took it very easy though, and they've all stayed nice and tight so far :tu:
Really you should use a thread chaser though, and not a tap. The chaser will just clean the threads out, without tapping new material. So ideally you want a M8x1.25 thread chaser. If you use a tap be very careful cuz its easy to start cutting new material. One thing I was worried about is making the holes too clean and smooth and bolts backing out. I took it very easy though, and they've all stayed nice and tight so far :tu:
Cool. Thanks. I just found the tap and die set and it looks like its. 19.95 plus 5 for shipping... Not bad. I'm going to run to my local parts store first to see what they have on hand. Also I looked up thread chasers and they look like dies so I don't think that's the proper verbiage for the tool. I'll just use a tap and go really slowly. Thanks again!
Did you search summit?
here's a thread chaser set. Its pricey for a set, which if you can find just a single M8x1.25 chaser that'd probably be the best route to take
ARP 912-0009 - ARP Thread Cleaning Chaser Sets - summitracing.com
here's a thread chaser set. Its pricey for a set, which if you can find just a single M8x1.25 chaser that'd probably be the best route to take
ARP 912-0009 - ARP Thread Cleaning Chaser Sets - summitracing.com
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