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SN95 Cobras
Whats needed for C head swap
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<blockquote data-quote="98-svt-stang" data-source="post: 15807487" data-attributes="member: 183234"><p>1. I never took a baseline dyno. From everything I have read I should have been around 270 rwhp. I have mid length headers catted x pipe and a cat back. I made 305 with the c head swab but you can tell it has way more low end and midrange power too. </p><p></p><p>2. Yes I still have the adapter plate. If your serious about the c head swap I would sell it. If I were to do it again I would have used it. I bought it after I already had most of the parts. </p><p></p><p>3. Ill have to look through everything and get back to you. You should only need the heads, lower intake, adapter plate, head gaskets, and head studs. You can modify you coolant crossover and fuel rails as long as you have the ability. </p><p></p><p>4. The coolant crossover attaches to the lower intake so you have to relocate the mounting tabs or buy a 99-01 crossover and weld a coolant sensor bung in. </p><p></p><p>5. Im almost positive you will be able to keep the stock hood if you use the adapter. </p><p></p><p>6. You will no longer have the imrc plates. The connecter is sitting under my intake. I had them shut off by my tuner so there is no check engine light. </p><p></p><p>7. As far as stock cams go b cams are the best option. Now a set of aftermarket cams will be better but you will spend upwards of $2,000 on cams, springs, and retainers. </p><p></p><p>8. Its possible to do it in the car, but with that being said pull the engine. Its not that hard and you will make the whole job easier. I took the engine and transmission out with a cherry picker and a load leveler. </p><p></p><p>I think you could do it under $1,500 if you get all the parts for the right price and the bare minimum of head work done. But it always ends up costing a little more than you would expect. And unless you plan on going turbo c heads are the way to go.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="98-svt-stang, post: 15807487, member: 183234"] 1. I never took a baseline dyno. From everything I have read I should have been around 270 rwhp. I have mid length headers catted x pipe and a cat back. I made 305 with the c head swab but you can tell it has way more low end and midrange power too. 2. Yes I still have the adapter plate. If your serious about the c head swap I would sell it. If I were to do it again I would have used it. I bought it after I already had most of the parts. 3. Ill have to look through everything and get back to you. You should only need the heads, lower intake, adapter plate, head gaskets, and head studs. You can modify you coolant crossover and fuel rails as long as you have the ability. 4. The coolant crossover attaches to the lower intake so you have to relocate the mounting tabs or buy a 99-01 crossover and weld a coolant sensor bung in. 5. Im almost positive you will be able to keep the stock hood if you use the adapter. 6. You will no longer have the imrc plates. The connecter is sitting under my intake. I had them shut off by my tuner so there is no check engine light. 7. As far as stock cams go b cams are the best option. Now a set of aftermarket cams will be better but you will spend upwards of $2,000 on cams, springs, and retainers. 8. Its possible to do it in the car, but with that being said pull the engine. Its not that hard and you will make the whole job easier. I took the engine and transmission out with a cherry picker and a load leveler. I think you could do it under $1,500 if you get all the parts for the right price and the bare minimum of head work done. But it always ends up costing a little more than you would expect. And unless you plan on going turbo c heads are the way to go. [/QUOTE]
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Whats needed for C head swap
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