What to clean deck surface when doing head gasket?

[GT350R]

Ok, doing a C head swap and this is my first aluminum block.

Usually I am doing an iron block and I would just scrape and then use a scotch lock wheel to clean the surface.

Well, I know the MLS type gaskets are touchy to surface texture and I dont want to have issues from maring the deck.

So........

Whats popular to use?

Also, guessing I am going to do a clean up mill on the heads. I have not checked them with a straight edge , but I dont want issues once the motor is in.
So.........
Anything else I should consider or look into if I get the heads a clean up mill?
The heads are low mileage Conti heads that look like new. So I dont plan on getting a value job, but will be swapping in my SHM springs and replacing the stem seals.

Any input on gasket brands?

 

[crazycarlo]

i always use lacquer thinner to clean the deck surface, but thats mostly cause I always have it around.

 

[White96svt]

I have rebuilt many alum motors working for Dealerships. I have always found that using brake clean and a 3M Scotch Brite Pads (Not Rolocs!!) work really well and don't damaged the mating surface. I've seen ppl use metal scrapers and roloc discs with a grinder and want to smack the hell out of them!! That's a big no no with alum!

 

[GT350R]

I have rebuilt many alum motors working for Dealerships. I have always found that using brake clean and a 3M Scotch Brite Pads (Not Rolocs!!) work really well and don't damaged the mating surface. I've seen ppl use metal scrapers and roloc discs with a grinder and want to smack the hell out of them!! That's a big no no with alum!

Awesome!!

Ok, now....

What grade (color?) scotch brite pads? Do you use a flat block with it? Or just by hand?

(rolocs are what I ment to say instead of scotchlock)

How sensitive are these heads to needing a clean up mill ? (if its a nice motor thats never been over heated)

 

[1989Gt.]

Do brake cleaner

 

[White96svt]

I have always used the Red scrotch brite pads. I always do it by hand not with a flat block. I just soak the scrotch brite in brake clean and then put it to work. It works very well and will give you a nice clean mating surface. As far as a clean up mil, I would straight edge the heads and make sure they are within in spec. As long as they are, I wouldn't mess with milling them. If it were my my motor, I wouldn't mill anything unless its needed or there's a good reason. That's metal that may be able to be removed in the future if something fails but is salvageable. Eng parts can only be machined so much! Just my .02!

 

[1989Gt.]

I used solvent and hot soapy water as well. Solvent works miracles.

 

[Cobra52898]

I would straight edge the heads and make sure they are within in spec. As long as they are, I wouldn't mess with milling them. If it were my my motor, I wouldn't mill anything unless its needed or there's a good reason. That's metal that may be able to be removed in the future if something fails but is salvageable. Eng parts can only be machined so much! Just my .02!

What do you recommend to use for a straight edge? Also is an align hone necessary on the main journals of a Teksid block? I was reading in SHM's book that an align hone is necessary on all aluminum blocks.

 

[1989Gt.]

you should check it yes, just to make sure its not out of spec.

 

[1989Gt.]

a good machine shop will do this anyways

 

[White96svt]

What do you recommend to use for a straight edge? Also is an align hone necessary on the main journals of a Teksid block? I was reading in SHM's book that an align hone is necessary on all aluminum blocks.

You should buy a straight edge. There isn't really anything that can be substituted for one. They have a machined face and are calibrated to ensure that the machined face is perfectly straight. Any variation on the edge will give false readings. As far as align honing, I'm not a machinist and only know what I've been told by others and read from SHM's stuff on this subject. From what I understanf, the machining process in the factory causes a taper across the main bearing web. This will have an effect on the bearing clearance. Sean Hyland is someone that has proven to know his S**t when it comes to Mod motors. I would tend to believe that with the him saying to do it along with the fact that others have also seen taper, I'd say its a very good idea. Maybe someone else with a bit more in sight can jump in and shed a bit more light on the subject.

 

[harvboi05]

i think if youre using tty bottom end hardware, youll be ok without the align hone, but if youre using arp type hardware. it will definintely pull and hold everything a bit differently.

 

[Cobra52898]

Thanks for your insight everyone.

 

[Bmeagher]

Here's what i use....

 

[White96svt]

Here's what i use....

These work great on Alum.......to a certain extent. They wear down some what fast and as they do, the bristles get shorter and stronger causing them to be more abrasive. I never cared for them as much as doing it by hand with a scrotch brite pad, mainly cause they are chalked up on a air grinder spinning at 10K rpms. They will def get the job done faster though. Lol.

 

[GT350R]

Doing it right now with the red scotch brite and brake cleaner. Glad I asked , because its coming out really good! Too bad its going to be ALOT of brake cleaner. Like 30-40 bucks worth atleast between doing it and making sure its clean after.

 

[White96svt]

Doing it right now with the red scotch brite and brake cleaner. Glad I asked , because its coming out really good! Too bad its going to be ALOT of brake cleaner. Like 30-40 bucks worth atleast between doing it and making sure its clean after.

Holy hell man!! Are you sure that the fumes aren't getting to you? Lol! I've never needed more than 1 maybe 2 cans at most. I spray the pad then scrub. Lol. Glad it's working for you. That's pretty much the best way to clean up a gasket surface!!! :beer:

 

[Bmeagher]

These work great on Alum.......to a certain extent. They wear down some what fast and as they do, the bristles get shorter and stronger causing them to be more abrasive. I never cared for them as much as doing it by hand with a scrotch brite pad, mainly cause they are chalked up on a air grinder spinning at 10K rpms. They will def get the job done faster though. Lol.

That's why you order the proper ones. :read:

 

[White96svt]

That's why you order the proper ones. :read:

Relax buddy, I didn't disagree with you. I'm perfectly aware of which discs to get. Did you read what I said before you decided to suggest I educate myself. I said that they work great for Alum....to an extent. They are designed for alum but once they start to wear down, the molded bristles become stiffer and are more abrasive. This will tend to leave swirls in the metal, similar to a normal roloc but nowhere near to the same extent. I suggested the scotch brite and some brake clean because that's cheaper and gives you a much better finish as well as the fact that not everyone has air to even use the Bristle discs. :beer:

Do NOT Use these on Alum!

These are Designed for Alum but you will still need to be cautious as they become aggressive when they start to wear down and are spinning at 10K + rpms.

 

[GT350R]

Holy hell man!! Are you sure that the fumes aren't getting to you? Lol! I've never needed more than 1 maybe 2 cans at most. I spray the pad then scrub. Lol. Glad it's working for you. That's pretty much the best way to clean up a gasket surface!!! :beer:

:rolling:
Yeah, it gets pretty bad. Had to leave the door closed and the heat on too, so it was even worse.

I needed to clean the whole motor too. Make sure there was no crud in the rings and stuff like that. Rather spend the extra 15-20 now, rather then have a smoker later.