I have some wheel hop in my car when I tend to really get on it... Im sure all of you do, whether its some or lots, but what mods can be done to cure this up. Links or pics would be great. Thanks a lot :thumbsup: .....
What suspension mods can be done to eliminate wheel hop???
- Thread starter F8LSNK04
- Start date
The greatest reason of wheel hop is uncontrolled suspension movement under load primarily due to compliant bushings. There are several situations which increase the likelihood and severity of wheel hop including running tires over inflated, traction coefficient of the tire, cold weather, wrong size bolts in the torque box location of the IRS assembly, and alignment, mainly toe and thrust angle. There have been some people who have discovered there thrust angle being off as much as .25".
The best way to minimize wheel hop is to resolve these issues. This includes.
-Remove the compliant stock bushings the most significant being the rear LCA, IRS assembly, and differential bushings. The most appropriate material currently for these bushings is Delrin for the rear LCA, urethane for the IRS assembly, aluminum for the differential pinion, and Delrin for the differential cover location.
-Replace the incorrect, I don't care what Ford says, 12mm bolts in the torque box location for the correct Ford 14mm bolts for this location.
-Replace the stock shocks with a higher dampening shock especially if a higher rate spring or Delrin LCA bushings are being used. The Delrin LCA bushings from our experience dramatically increase the spring efficiency which substantially increases the wheel spring rate. With the stock 600 Ibs/in springs the 00R shocks are great, but for higher spring rates above 700 Ibs/in conventional or 600 Ibs/in coil-over you might experience under dampening with the 00R shocks.
-Install a good set of full-length weld-in subframe connectors. You can not expect your suspension to perform optimally if the unifying structure is not stable.
-Install a good set of tires. I use Nitto 555R 315s on the stock rim and have very good performance from them. I run them on the street daily driven at 26 psi and depending on how much you spend them you can get 8k-12k miles out of a pair.
-Check your tire pressure. Just because Ford recommends 32 psi for the stock tires does not mean it is correct. For one considering our cars have a ~57%/43% weight distribution there is no way the front and rear tires should have the same pressure to distribute load present on that tire. In my experience the front tires need substantially more then 32 psi to provide optimum traction, tread life, and gas mileage. And the rears require significantly less. The best way to determine if your tires are optimally inflated is to draw a line across the tread face of all four tires and drive around and monitor the wear rate of the chalk. If the chalk wears evenly from shoulder to shoulder then the tire pressure is probably within it optimum range. If it doesn't it is an indication of a problem. If the chalk wears faster from the center you are over-inflated. If the chalk wears faster on the shoulders evenly then you are under-inflated. If the chalk wears faster on the outside corner you have to much positive camber. You should have a little more wear on the inside shoulder depending on your alignment, but if it is substantial then you probably have to much negative camber. Another quick way is to drive through a puddle and then over dry concrete and examine the tread pattern. If it is even from shoulder to shoulder the most significant locations are the shoulders and center you are good if not then you have an issue. Again if the center is lighter then the shoulders you are under-inflated. If the shoulders are lighter then the center then you are over-inflated.
-Have a 4-wheel thrust alignment performed and make sure the thrust angle is 0.00" and have the toe set to toe-in 1/16" per side and 1/8" total in the front and rear.
The best way to minimize wheel hop is to resolve these issues. This includes.
-Remove the compliant stock bushings the most significant being the rear LCA, IRS assembly, and differential bushings. The most appropriate material currently for these bushings is Delrin for the rear LCA, urethane for the IRS assembly, aluminum for the differential pinion, and Delrin for the differential cover location.
-Replace the incorrect, I don't care what Ford says, 12mm bolts in the torque box location for the correct Ford 14mm bolts for this location.
-Replace the stock shocks with a higher dampening shock especially if a higher rate spring or Delrin LCA bushings are being used. The Delrin LCA bushings from our experience dramatically increase the spring efficiency which substantially increases the wheel spring rate. With the stock 600 Ibs/in springs the 00R shocks are great, but for higher spring rates above 700 Ibs/in conventional or 600 Ibs/in coil-over you might experience under dampening with the 00R shocks.
-Install a good set of full-length weld-in subframe connectors. You can not expect your suspension to perform optimally if the unifying structure is not stable.
-Install a good set of tires. I use Nitto 555R 315s on the stock rim and have very good performance from them. I run them on the street daily driven at 26 psi and depending on how much you spend them you can get 8k-12k miles out of a pair.
-Check your tire pressure. Just because Ford recommends 32 psi for the stock tires does not mean it is correct. For one considering our cars have a ~57%/43% weight distribution there is no way the front and rear tires should have the same pressure to distribute load present on that tire. In my experience the front tires need substantially more then 32 psi to provide optimum traction, tread life, and gas mileage. And the rears require significantly less. The best way to determine if your tires are optimally inflated is to draw a line across the tread face of all four tires and drive around and monitor the wear rate of the chalk. If the chalk wears evenly from shoulder to shoulder then the tire pressure is probably within it optimum range. If it doesn't it is an indication of a problem. If the chalk wears faster from the center you are over-inflated. If the chalk wears faster on the shoulders evenly then you are under-inflated. If the chalk wears faster on the outside corner you have to much positive camber. You should have a little more wear on the inside shoulder depending on your alignment, but if it is substantial then you probably have to much negative camber. Another quick way is to drive through a puddle and then over dry concrete and examine the tread pattern. If it is even from shoulder to shoulder the most significant locations are the shoulders and center you are good if not then you have an issue. Again if the center is lighter then the shoulders you are under-inflated. If the shoulders are lighter then the center then you are over-inflated.
-Have a 4-wheel thrust alignment performed and make sure the thrust angle is 0.00" and have the toe set to toe-in 1/16" per side and 1/8" total in the front and rear.
You always say that LMAO:lol: With the suspension mods in my sig i have zero wheel hop.
The latest issue of 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords has an article about the Cobra IRS. The article points out a lot of the same things as toofast4u. They mention the 14mm vs 12mm bolts too.
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