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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
what mods do you regret?
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<blockquote data-quote="MalcolmV8" data-source="post: 8821899" data-attributes="member: 8854"><p>I did get my flywheel resurfaced. I'd read about the chatter and wanted to make sure I got rid of it. However when reading about it I had no idea how bad it would be. It's much worse than how a stock clutch chatters on a warped flywheel.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It is possible I just need to get more aggressive with it. I did indeed baby it for the first 500 miles because I put it in at the same time as my brand new freshly rebuilt motor that I'm taking it easy on and breaking in. However I'm up to 750 ~ 800 mile range and I'll start getting on the gas a little more aggressively from the traffic lights and slip the clutch</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Adjustment is good. In fact I had to preload it quite a bit because that spec included throw out bearing makes a lot of noise. When I'd sit idling or even driving next to a wall or other cars I could hear the noise echoing off them. When my car was sitting idling in the driveway and I was outside I could hear the clatter sound of the TOB. When driving I could hear it coming through the shifter area. Another thing I was disappointed in. When you pay $500 for a clutch you don't expect the TOB to be a piece of crap that makes all kinds of noise. When I start to push in the clutch pedal preloading up the TOB the noise would go away so I kept adjusting my fiore firewall adjuster till I got rid of the sound. I had to use the third hook on the UPR tripple hook quadrant. A side affect of preloading the clutch tightly is that you now limit pedal travel so when you push the clutch to the floor it actually stops about 1/4" or so from the floor so the car won't start because the clutch safety switch is not fully depressed. You can either force the pedal down (owch) or put a zip tie around the shaft of the safety switch so it presses in earlier than before.</p><p></p><p>All these little things add up to ones overall impression of a product and combined with that nasty chatter I have to say I'm not a fan of the spec clutch one bit and will never buy another one. In fact if this chatter doesn't let up by 2k miles or so its coming out and something else is going in. My stock clutch was actually just fine. The only reason I upgraded to the 26 spline was because I twisted two stock 10 spline input shafts. Oh well, the way it goes sometimes when you play.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MalcolmV8, post: 8821899, member: 8854"] I did get my flywheel resurfaced. I'd read about the chatter and wanted to make sure I got rid of it. However when reading about it I had no idea how bad it would be. It's much worse than how a stock clutch chatters on a warped flywheel. It is possible I just need to get more aggressive with it. I did indeed baby it for the first 500 miles because I put it in at the same time as my brand new freshly rebuilt motor that I'm taking it easy on and breaking in. However I'm up to 750 ~ 800 mile range and I'll start getting on the gas a little more aggressively from the traffic lights and slip the clutch Adjustment is good. In fact I had to preload it quite a bit because that spec included throw out bearing makes a lot of noise. When I'd sit idling or even driving next to a wall or other cars I could hear the noise echoing off them. When my car was sitting idling in the driveway and I was outside I could hear the clatter sound of the TOB. When driving I could hear it coming through the shifter area. Another thing I was disappointed in. When you pay $500 for a clutch you don't expect the TOB to be a piece of crap that makes all kinds of noise. When I start to push in the clutch pedal preloading up the TOB the noise would go away so I kept adjusting my fiore firewall adjuster till I got rid of the sound. I had to use the third hook on the UPR tripple hook quadrant. A side affect of preloading the clutch tightly is that you now limit pedal travel so when you push the clutch to the floor it actually stops about 1/4" or so from the floor so the car won't start because the clutch safety switch is not fully depressed. You can either force the pedal down (owch) or put a zip tie around the shaft of the safety switch so it presses in earlier than before. All these little things add up to ones overall impression of a product and combined with that nasty chatter I have to say I'm not a fan of the spec clutch one bit and will never buy another one. In fact if this chatter doesn't let up by 2k miles or so its coming out and something else is going in. My stock clutch was actually just fine. The only reason I upgraded to the 26 spline was because I twisted two stock 10 spline input shafts. Oh well, the way it goes sometimes when you play. [/QUOTE]
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