Really starting to drive me nuts! High RPM 1-2 shift is always a pain. Will a Blowfish bracket and a MGW take care of it? What has been figured out over the years?
What is the fix for 2nd gear lock out?!?
- Thread starter 95R131
- Start date
It’s been awhile but ya that is right.
And I think the trans mount as well.
Go to poly bushings vs factory rubber.
Just what I seem to recall could be wrong.
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If it works it works...……….obviously I'm in no mood to pull the tranny out and replace synchros.
Was it BS to go through what I did to get it where I feel it is fine for now???? Yes.
Most likely at this stage now I probably won't be hitting the track to "really" test my setup (since my car is FS) but if I was able to do 3 back to back to back then 2 back to back deadstop WOT hits from 1st up to 6500rpm and got 2nd gear all 5 times that tells me what I ended up doing works.
Was it BS to go through what I did to get it where I feel it is fine for now???? Yes.
Most likely at this stage now I probably won't be hitting the track to "really" test my setup (since my car is FS) but if I was able to do 3 back to back to back then 2 back to back deadstop WOT hits from 1st up to 6500rpm and got 2nd gear all 5 times that tells me what I ended up doing works.
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It looks like you had to modify the Blowfish bracket to get it to work with the MGW? Which part do you think was more helpful in solving the issue, the bracket or the shifter? I wonder if the bracket and stock shifter would also solve the issue without having to modify the parts.
No, if you have the V2 BF bracket you need to cut that piece off that I showed in my thread so the MGW rear bracket will fit properly on the BF loop bracket AFTER you add that piece of square alum. stock between the two parts and drop the shifter down about a 1/2" from the shifter ORIGINAL position.
My thread shows exactly what needs to be done. I had the Gen 2 bracket on the BF loop bracket without cutting that piece off but what happens is that the shifter is now too low and screws up the built in geometry and you may not be able to shift into your bottom even gears based on where your billet top plate is positioned.
I learned the hard way and had to purchase another billet top plate (cause I modded the first plate when the shifter was mounted too low) from George @ MGW and remount the MGW to the car removing the BF bracket I had used with the stock shifter before buying a MGW.
I did drive the car just with the MGW (mounted like stock without the BF bracket). I never really tested it but did a couple of dead stop launches WOT to 5500rpm and also got 2nd gear both times. I didn't try it to 6500rpm with just the MGW but my 5 times almost consecutive launches to 6500rpm and also hitting 2nd pretty well proves to me my setup with those 2 parts does the job.
Tony
My thread shows exactly what needs to be done. I had the Gen 2 bracket on the BF loop bracket without cutting that piece off but what happens is that the shifter is now too low and screws up the built in geometry and you may not be able to shift into your bottom even gears based on where your billet top plate is positioned.
I learned the hard way and had to purchase another billet top plate (cause I modded the first plate when the shifter was mounted too low) from George @ MGW and remount the MGW to the car removing the BF bracket I had used with the stock shifter before buying a MGW.
I did drive the car just with the MGW (mounted like stock without the BF bracket). I never really tested it but did a couple of dead stop launches WOT to 5500rpm and also got 2nd gear both times. I didn't try it to 6500rpm with just the MGW but my 5 times almost consecutive launches to 6500rpm and also hitting 2nd pretty well proves to me my setup with those 2 parts does the job.
Tony
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Thanks for the info. So it sounds like you ran the car with the stock shifter and blowfish bracket for awhile? How did that work out?
Yes, I got the BF bracket first as I had done the modded stock shifter stuff (solid bushings in the arms and rear KR mount) and drove my car that way for a fw
It worked fine for me, but I never really did the launches that I did after I added the MGW and BF bracket properly. So whether using a BF bracket with a stock shifter (either modded or factory stock) will help you get 2nd gear when you do your 1-2 high rpm shift...…………..who knows???
I'm happy with the MGW now (I kinda wasn't when I first installed it, but probably because of the improper location when using the BF bracket with it the first time).
The only thing I can say is if you already have the BF bracket it won't hurt to do the mod that I did and get the items you need to mount it to the MGW. The part you cut off if you do it right can be welded back on, cleaned up, repainted and it would be good to go for it on a stock shifter application.
If you do it, try what I did or hit the track and post up the results, I really do feel that this could be the fix everybody has been waiting for to cure this BS lockout/grind crap (ala your trans is in good condition, if your synchros are bad from all the hard shifting before and grinding and stuff then you may need a synchro refresh first).
It worked fine for me, but I never really did the launches that I did after I added the MGW and BF bracket properly. So whether using a BF bracket with a stock shifter (either modded or factory stock) will help you get 2nd gear when you do your 1-2 high rpm shift...…………..who knows???
I'm happy with the MGW now (I kinda wasn't when I first installed it, but probably because of the improper location when using the BF bracket with it the first time).
The only thing I can say is if you already have the BF bracket it won't hurt to do the mod that I did and get the items you need to mount it to the MGW. The part you cut off if you do it right can be welded back on, cleaned up, repainted and it would be good to go for it on a stock shifter application.
If you do it, try what I did or hit the track and post up the results, I really do feel that this could be the fix everybody has been waiting for to cure this BS lockout/grind crap (ala your trans is in good condition, if your synchros are bad from all the hard shifting before and grinding and stuff then you may need a synchro refresh first).
The trans should still be good. The car has under 5k miles on it at this point and I have only tried the 1-2 shift at high RPM a handful of times. Everytime it has been an issue though. Extremely frustrating and the only thing I hate about these cars. If I can get that fixed, it would be perfect. I am just debating if I want to try the MGW without the Blowfish and see if that is all that is needed or do both options at the same time. I'd like to start with whichever one is most likely to fix it and if it don't, add the other. Your experience definitely gives me hope that there may be a solution.
I also changed my trans fluid to Amsoil (not that I really noticed a difference from the Redline I was using).
Like everybody says, MGW is better than stock shifter no matter how you slice it, so if you don't have either part do the shifter first.
I was happy with my modded stock shifter so I went for the BF bracket first and only got the MGW because of Easter day sales.
If you can wait, my car is FS now and if I have to yank out my modded parts (shifter and BF bracket being one of those many parts), it'll be available no time frame on it though.
Like everybody says, MGW is better than stock shifter no matter how you slice it, so if you don't have either part do the shifter first.
I was happy with my modded stock shifter so I went for the BF bracket first and only got the MGW because of Easter day sales.
If you can wait, my car is FS now and if I have to yank out my modded parts (shifter and BF bracket being one of those many parts), it'll be available no time frame on it though.
I appreciate the advice. I will probably go ahead and start with the shifter and see how it goes from there. If your Blowfish bracket ends up for sale I would definitely be interested in that.
I am still on the stock trans fluid so changing that out will be something else I could look into. I run Amsoil engine oil and could pick up some trans fluid in my next order.
MGW did the trick for me, seems to work for most. I’d definitely go that route before I added the BF bracket. Changing your trans fluid out to Amsoil ATF seems to smooth things out a little as well.
Op I might also consider upgrading the Clutch. Maybe go to an RXT....
I Don’t have a 13/14, but I had the 2nd gear issue so bad I felt like getting rid of my 2010 at one point. I’ve done two fluid changes with Mobil atf, added a Barton shifter and replaced the clutch with a Spec twin disc that I found here on the forum. This clutch has a real positive feel to it on engagement and disengagement, hard to describe but I think the clutch did the trick, I feel like maybe the old one was not fully disengaging at times or not quickly enough. I’ve had no issues shifting to 2nd in almost 2000 miles or in 3 passes at the track even with the quicker shift with the Barton. Hope you can get it sorted, I know how frustrating it is !
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I Don’t have a 13/14, but I had the 2nd gear issue so bad I felt like getting rid of my 2010 at one point. I’ve done two fluid changes with Mobil atf, added a Barton shifter and replaced the clutch with a Spec twin disc that I found here on the forum. This clutch has a real positive feel to it on engagement and disengagement, hard to describe but I think the clutch did the trick, I feel like maybe the old one was not fully disengaging at times or not quickly enough. I’ve had no issues shifting to 2nd in almost 2000 miles or in 3 passes at the track even with the quicker shift with the Barton. Hope you can get it sorted, I know how frustrating it is !
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Start with fluid and MGW, also practicing pulling 2nd back to your hip.
Just learn how to do a quick clean 1-2 and you’ll be fast. A hard 1-2 powershift isn’t a good thing anyway as it upsets the tires and suspension.
-J
Just learn how to do a quick clean 1-2 and you’ll be fast. A hard 1-2 powershift isn’t a good thing anyway as it upsets the tires and suspension.
-J
What transmission oil do you guys and gals recommend?
Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1 or another brand of ATF?
Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1 or another brand of ATF?
As a member of the "I hate my 1-2 upshift TR6060" club, I can tell you what has worked... for a time.
Had the trans rebuilt under warranty. No issues for like 1000 miles. Then I started getting lock-out during normal daily shifting. Swapped to Amsoil Synth ATF and it helped out a lot, but true 1-2 powershift on a sticky track was hit or miss.
Installed an MGW Gen2 and it helped out tremendously. Shift feel is worlds better. BUT Id still get 1-2 lock out, grind etc. I swapped to Royal Purple Synchromax and it was a noticeable improvement in shift quality! ... until it got worse.... ARRGGGGHHHH
Drained that shit and tried Redline D4 ATF. Of all the fluids this one seems the best. However the bearing and synchros in my trans are just done after 4 years of hard use with terrible OE synchro rings. When I pull the engine, Im sending the trans out for a rebuild here at the local Tremec dealer. Ive got new HYBRID synchro rings 1-4 from Tremec and Im probably going to go get 5,6 and reverse. These arent available from Ford, but any Tremec dealer will have them.
So the cliff notes version? MGW and pull trans for a rebuild with Tremec Hybrid Synchro rings. Camaro's and Challengers have this issue too, but its a little less pronounced than the GT500 because of their trans mounted shifter.
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