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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
What is needed to pull to 7700-8000 Rpm's - safely/reliably
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<blockquote data-quote="Krace" data-source="post: 12544145" data-attributes="member: 142108"><p>The oil pressure to the heads is going to be a problem at higher rpm. Once above "I think" ~7200-7400rpm the oil is not getting pushed up in to the heads fast enough and can cause premature wear on the valve train. This is due to the use of the oil squirters. And that's why the Boss don't have the squirters. (If I can find the article of an interview from someone that was part of the coyote motor design team, I'll post it up to back up my facts.) </p><p>Now on the 2013 model I don't know much about just because they got rid of the oil squirters and use different pistons. So that motor maybe able to handle the higher rpm range with just better oil/coolant cooling mods.</p><p>Also with the 2013 models you wont know what motor you have unless you drop the oil pan and look to see if you have the squirters or not, cause in the first few mix 13's 5.0 have the 11-12 motor running in it.</p><p></p><p>So my recommendation is to pull the motor and install the boss guts and delete the oil squirters to run safely up to that rpm range with out killing the longevity of your motor. Also the mods to the heads you have mentioned will help with longevity at the higher rpm range as well.</p><p></p><p>*Just IMO* I just don't see pushing a motor just to have it fail in 20k miles a good idea. Don't get me wrong, the coyote is one hell of a motor and can take a lot of crap. But for how long can it go? 20? 50? 100k? No one knows. When I build motors, I build it once and keep it well in its tolerance for what I want it to do and have it last for 160-200k miles or more.</p><p> Anyway :beer:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Krace, post: 12544145, member: 142108"] The oil pressure to the heads is going to be a problem at higher rpm. Once above "I think" ~7200-7400rpm the oil is not getting pushed up in to the heads fast enough and can cause premature wear on the valve train. This is due to the use of the oil squirters. And that's why the Boss don't have the squirters. (If I can find the article of an interview from someone that was part of the coyote motor design team, I'll post it up to back up my facts.) Now on the 2013 model I don't know much about just because they got rid of the oil squirters and use different pistons. So that motor maybe able to handle the higher rpm range with just better oil/coolant cooling mods. Also with the 2013 models you wont know what motor you have unless you drop the oil pan and look to see if you have the squirters or not, cause in the first few mix 13's 5.0 have the 11-12 motor running in it. So my recommendation is to pull the motor and install the boss guts and delete the oil squirters to run safely up to that rpm range with out killing the longevity of your motor. Also the mods to the heads you have mentioned will help with longevity at the higher rpm range as well. *Just IMO* I just don't see pushing a motor just to have it fail in 20k miles a good idea. Don't get me wrong, the coyote is one hell of a motor and can take a lot of crap. But for how long can it go? 20? 50? 100k? No one knows. When I build motors, I build it once and keep it well in its tolerance for what I want it to do and have it last for 160-200k miles or more. Anyway :beer: [/QUOTE]
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2011-2014 Mustang Talk
What is needed to pull to 7700-8000 Rpm's - safely/reliably
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