What Fuel pumps would you go with

[JuStAkId]

Hey guys
Getting ready to make the switch over to e85 this winter. I am trying to decide what pumps I should go with. I have narrowed it down to the walbro 465 or aem 320e or even the Aeromotive 340lph Stealth (cant find much on these pumps)

With the 465s I am afraid they will generate too much heat and burn up
With the 320e I dont see a lot of people running them
With the Aeromotive 340s again I haven't seen many people running them

The car is usually driven on short trips/cruises at a time. I do however drive it sometimes on longer trips. For my fuel system I will be running the division x gen three hat (the hat has the standard twin spade connectors on it) with a -8 to the fuel regulator then from there a y block feeding each Fore fuel rail (deadhead setup) running 80lb injectors. Looking to support 700rwhp on e85. Both pumps should support my power goals with ease just trying to decide what one will fit better in my application

I feel like the 465 are a bit of an over kill both running full time (not putting in a hobbs switch) but then with the 320s I dont see many people running them and that concerns me as if the 320 is a bad pump or something same goes for the Aeromotive 340s.

Ideally I would want something that will plug right in to my fuel hat connections but thats last on the list rather have the best pumps possible for my application

Please let me know what you think

 

[Zemedici]

why are you against running a hobbs switch?

What i'd do is snag the 465s (what we use in my shop) and use the FC3 controller and a hobbs switch, that way you have more than enough fuel for whatever you decide to do in the future. Done.

 

[apex svt]

Have a buddy that's running a single stealth on his Mach 1, so far so good but it's only got about 500 miles on it so hard to judge based on that alone

 

[01yellercobra]

What little I've seen on the 320E's seems good. I was looking at them for my set up. But mostly because I have an older hat where the 465's won't fit. And I'm planning on staying returnless for a while. I wanted the 320's just in case I decide to make an E85 tune at some point.

 

[MG0h3]

why are you against running a hobbs switch?

What i'd do is snag the 465s (what we use in my shop) and use the FC3 controller and a hobbs switch, that way you have more than enough fuel for whatever you decide to do in the future. Done.

This is what I did but I used the Fore hat that comes with the Level1E. The connector that comes with that is top notch and you get the pigtail with it that will run up to the relays. I deleted the "controller" and went with two $8 40A PICO relays from summit. FPDM triggers the primary and hobbs the secondary.

I was concerned about the heat as well but I couldn't find any problems when you go the hobbs route.

 

[R3dfireCobra]

I have the Walbro 465's and they are wired to both run full time. After an hour of driving my fuel filter is barely warm to the touch (I know because I've tested this multiple times), so if its heat that you are worried about I can tell you that's not the culprit as they are not generating enough heat to heat the fuel or are being heated by the fuel as in a true return flow through fuel system. I also have a deadhead setup so my fuel wouldn't be heated just for this reason and would cool the pumps as its suppose to do which I am assuming it does since its not getting hot. So take that for what its worth.

 

[JuStAkId]

why are you against running a hobbs switch?

What i'd do is snag the 465s (what we use in my shop) and use the FC3 controller and a hobbs switch, that way you have more than enough fuel for whatever you decide to do in the future. Done.

If I had no budget i'd just buy a pricey fore kit with everything I need in it but unfortunately thats not the case. As I have everything for the install (dual pump wiring and such) i dont really have the funds for fc3 controller. Plenty of people have been doing it without a hobbs switch so I see no reason to change my whole approach over that. Yes I agree a fc3 controller with a hobbs switch is the best way to go about it but its not going to happen. Just trying to get first hand experience so I can make the best choice possible

I have the Walbro 465's and they are wired to both run full time. After an hour of driving my fuel filter is barely warm to the touch (I know because I've tested this multiple times), so if its heat that you are worried about I can tell you that's not the culprit as they are not generating enough heat to heat the fuel or are being heated by the fuel as in a true return flow through fuel system. I also have a deadhead setup so my fuel wouldn't be heated just for this reason and would cool the pumps as its suppose to do which I am assuming it does since its not getting hot. So take that for what its worth.

Thats what Ive been finding out that a flow through design heats the fuel up. One of many reasons why I plan to run a deadhead set up. Also read in to malcolmv8 thread http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...rastically-dropped-my-fuel-temps-by-over-100F which has a ton of great info. The 465 were/are my top choice but Im just try to get as much info as I can to make a educated choice. Really appreciate the real world info

 

[cj428mach]

I have the aem320s and while they do a wonderful job id go 465s next time. In fact the only reason I didn't go 465s was because they supposedly built a ton of heat but Malcolms thread proved that to be false.

 

[Senkak]

I run twin Walbro 465s full time with no Hobbs swith.
Works very well and is dead reliable.

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

I remember reading something on the stealth 340s having issues with e85, so stay away from those. I also run 2 465s full time with no issues.

 

[ctgreddy]

Pick a pump and go with it, both are great choices. Do not get the aeromotives. 1 out of every 3 we use at my work has an issue. I have the 320e's as I think you know. I did have one fail, fore warrantied it and said this was one of the first they've seen fail. I haven't had any issues yet and would go with them again if I went back in time. If I ever had another failure I'd switch to either the 465's or the dw300's, but I doubt I'll have an issue.

I wouldn't waste the money on the fore controllers. Get two automotive 40amp relays and wire them up, either both full on or put a hobbs switch on one as the trigger. You'll have 40 bucks into it compared to 2-3 hundred.

 

[Bdubbs]

I put 320e in this spring, so far I like them. Much quieter than the walbro 342 pumps I ran before.

 

[1990jmcturbo]

i have i have 465's. and no issues here.

 

[apex svt]

I put 320e in this spring, so far I like them. Much quieter than the walbro 342 pumps I ran before.

Didn't you have one start to melt or something like that? Thought I remember you posting pictures of it

 

[keith89]

I have the Walbro 465's and they are wired to both run full time. After an hour of driving my fuel filter is barely warm to the touch (I know because I've tested this multiple times), so if its heat that you are worried about I can tell you that's not the culprit as they are not generating enough heat to heat the fuel or are being heated by the fuel as in a true return flow through fuel system. I also have a deadhead setup so my fuel wouldn't be heated just for this reason and would cool the pumps as its suppose to do which I am assuming it does since its not getting hot. So take that for what its worth.

I had dual external walbros and was having cavitation and pump overheating issues. It stranded me a few times. Then I realized my flow through return setup was the problem. The fuel rails were heating the fuel and returning it to the tank. I switched to a deadhead return setup with a small fuel cooler on the return line(probably overkill) and have not had a problem since. After a couple years, I did switch to a magnafuel protuner pump. It's a little louder but its also rebuildable.

 

[R3dfireCobra]

I had dual external walbros and was having cavitation and pump overheating issues. It stranded me a few times. Then I realized my flow through return setup was the problem. The fuel rails were heating the fuel and returning it to the tank. I switched to a deadhead return setup with a small fuel cooler on the return line(probably overkill) and have not had a problem since. After a couple years, I did switch to a magnafuel protuner pump. It's a little louder but its also rebuildable.

Yep, MalcomV8 posted a while back with his testing proving a flow through setup heats the fuel up substantially, just makes since based on the design. I don't think he had any issues, but it really bothered him the fuel was being heated so much and the possibilities of what you experienced could happen to him. Based off that, I chose a deadhead configuration and completely redid my setup as it was originally engineered to be a flow through design. I am still unsure why so many choose to use a Hobbs switch to turn off one of the pumps, seems completely unnecessary to me and I haven't found anyone with concrete evidence as to why you should use it other than fear of overheating the pumps, which does not happen. Now if someone can prove to me with facts why its worth it then im all for it, but so far the facts justifying adding one don't seem worth while or necessary to do it, but that's just my opinion.

 

[ctgreddy]

Yep, MalcomV8 posted a while back with his testing proving a flow through setup heats the fuel up substantially, just makes since based on the design. I don't think he had any issues, but it really bothered him the fuel was being heated so much and the possibilities of what you experienced could happen to him. Based off that, I chose a deadhead configuration and completely redid my setup as it was originally engineered to be a flow through design. I am still unsure why so many choose to use a Hobbs switch to turn off one of the pumps, seems completely unnecessary to me and I haven't found anyone with concrete evidence as to why you should use it other than fear of overheating the pumps, which does not happen. Now if someone can prove to me with facts why its worth it then im all for it, but so far the facts justifying adding one don't seem worth while or necessary to do it, but that's just my opinion.

I think the only "fact" for the hobbs is adding pump life. The one on a hobbs is going to be running probably 15% of the time as the primary pump. Which would mean it'd last a lot longer. I dont see that being worth it to run one and I dont in my car nor do I in any other systems I install.

 

[Bdubbs]

Didn't you have one start to melt or something like that? Thought I remember you posting pictures of it

No I posted a picture of one that I found. I think what might have happened with that one was a rigged up relay setup or a system without a inline fuse.

 

[InvisibleBlade]

Just like others in this thread, I'm running twin 465's full time for 3+ years and no issues.

 

[BoostedSVT03]

Im running 465's with a FC3 and a hobbs switch. I love the setup. I can't even tell when the second pump kicks on. Not that its a big deal but one thing I REALLY like about having staged pumps is if I go on a road trip and my primary dies I can just switch wires on the FC3. Temps are low but its my first return system so I don't know the difference.