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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
What components should I choose for a return setup?
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<blockquote data-quote="TermiCustomer" data-source="post: 16061192" data-attributes="member: 192026"><p>Hi guys,</p><p>At the recommendation of many of you in this thread- <a href="https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/please-help-solving-fuel-issues-ive-tried-many-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/" target="_blank">https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/please-help-solving-fuel-issues-ive-tried-many-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/</a></p><p></p><p>I am deciding to go with a return fuel system purely to increase reliability, and in order to eliminate as many points possible of potential electronic failure from my fuel system.</p><p></p><p>I have a 2.3 Whipple with a 3 inch upper and 2 lb lower at 19 psi, tuned for 93. Probably around 600 WHP. But that is going to be tuned to a safer ~17 psi with a 3.25 upper. I do not intend to ever run E85. It's not in my area, and I don't particularly need more power. Potential future power increases would come from long tube headers, and a Killer Chiller to keep everything running cool.</p><p></p><p>Looking at Fore's website, I see an option for a FC2 or FC3 controller. Looking at Lethal's Budget System, there is nothing like this. I see some people on this forum running a Hobbs switch to turn on the second pump at certain times. I see some people with issues of pumps overheating. I see that some people do a deadhead setup to keep the fuel temperature down. I see some install a module in the trunk that turns on the second pump. Ideally I do not want the electronic components like the controller or Hobbs switch. Unless these components are more reliable than a returnless setup with an upgraded FPDM with a functioning BAP.</p><p></p><p>So again, my goals are: 1. Increase reliability of the car as a whole 2. Simplify/reduce the electronics involved in the fuel system</p><p></p><p>What specific individual components should I go for, knowing that I am not going much above 600 WHP, and will not ever run E85? Budget is approximately $1200 all in. I am ok with going a bit above that for reliability sake.</p><p>Required</p><p>Hat/module- ? Fuel pressure regulator - ? Pumps - ? Rail to regulator adaptor- ? Hat to OEM feed line adapter -? Return line - ? Pressure gauge (considering I am getting an Aeroforce interceptor with a fuel pressure connection) ? Wiring -? FRPS adapter - ? Fuel filter -?</p><p>Possibly optional</p><p>Fuel rails -? Controller- ? Hobbs switch -? Other stuff-?</p><p></p><p>Thank you very much,</p><p>Happy Thanksgiving</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TermiCustomer, post: 16061192, member: 192026"] Hi guys, At the recommendation of many of you in this thread- [URL]https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/please-help-solving-fuel-issues-ive-tried-many-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/[/URL] I am deciding to go with a return fuel system purely to increase reliability, and in order to eliminate as many points possible of potential electronic failure from my fuel system. I have a 2.3 Whipple with a 3 inch upper and 2 lb lower at 19 psi, tuned for 93. Probably around 600 WHP. But that is going to be tuned to a safer ~17 psi with a 3.25 upper. I do not intend to ever run E85. It's not in my area, and I don't particularly need more power. Potential future power increases would come from long tube headers, and a Killer Chiller to keep everything running cool. Looking at Fore's website, I see an option for a FC2 or FC3 controller. Looking at Lethal's Budget System, there is nothing like this. I see some people on this forum running a Hobbs switch to turn on the second pump at certain times. I see some people with issues of pumps overheating. I see that some people do a deadhead setup to keep the fuel temperature down. I see some install a module in the trunk that turns on the second pump. Ideally I do not want the electronic components like the controller or Hobbs switch. Unless these components are more reliable than a returnless setup with an upgraded FPDM with a functioning BAP. So again, my goals are: 1. Increase reliability of the car as a whole 2. Simplify/reduce the electronics involved in the fuel system What specific individual components should I go for, knowing that I am not going much above 600 WHP, and will not ever run E85? Budget is approximately $1200 all in. I am ok with going a bit above that for reliability sake. Required Hat/module- ? Fuel pressure regulator - ? Pumps - ? Rail to regulator adaptor- ? Hat to OEM feed line adapter -? Return line - ? Pressure gauge (considering I am getting an Aeroforce interceptor with a fuel pressure connection) ? Wiring -? FRPS adapter - ? Fuel filter -? Possibly optional Fuel rails -? Controller- ? Hobbs switch -? Other stuff-? Thank you very much, Happy Thanksgiving [/QUOTE]
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