What Clutch should I get?

1989CobraMakeOv

1989CobraMakeOv

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I know, I know, "use the search option." I did, but it kept giving me an error.

So I have a 99 Cobra and the clutch is going out. It has 70,000 miles on it, does that sound about right for when the thing should start to go out?

I'd like to buy the clutch from www.americanmuscle.com because they have been great in the past, plus i get a 6% discount. The thing is, they only offer a few brands:

Ford Racing King Cobra, $209
SPEC, $234 (the spec 2 is $100 more, is it worth it? The car will stay NA..)
RAM Clutches, $269
Fidanza, $279

What do you guys think?

Also, I don't have time to install it, what should the install run?

THANKS!
 
Double"O"

Double"O"

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i would go with an OEM piece since your car is pretty stock
 
2001asp

2001asp

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Yes you can use the the KINGCobra clutch. I got mine from D&D performance and it cost $199. It is the stock replacement for the 03/04 clutch and it is the perfect clutch for a street car that does not have more then 350ft lbs of tq. I am biased as I just installed this clutch along side of a 12lb Fidanza alum. Flywheel(best mod I've done since my gears), and the steeda clutch quadrant kit. What ever you get it should be an 11inch clutch w/a 10 spline and the flywheel should be an 8 bolt f/w. DO NOT FORGET TO GET THIS FLYWHEEL because while you have the trans out everything is opened up. DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE.... Also buy a 1 gallon jug of Halvoline mercron/dextronIII and change the fluid. If you don't have the coin to do this all at once...... SAVE, SAVE, SAVE......
PS...The KCC behaves just like stock, it HAS a lighter pedal feel and is a perfect clutch for a mild bolt on car like yours, don't pay more for a brand name. If you are drag racing then go for a spec 2 or 2+. The king cobra clutch(Valemoe/Ford Racing) is what is on a an 03/04 cobra from the factory(they also come with an alum. f/w stock btw). BUY this clutch.
-2001asp
 
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1989CobraMakeOv

1989CobraMakeOv

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2001asp said:
Yes you can use the the KINGCobra clutch. I got mine from D&D performance and it cost $199. It is the stock replacement for the 03/04 clutch and it is the perfect clutch for a street car that does not have more then 350ft lbs of tq. I am biased as I just installed this clutch along side of a 12lb Fidanza alum. Flywheel(best mod I've done since my gears), and the steeda clutch quadrant kit. What ever you get it should be an 11inch clutch w/a 10 spline and the flywheel should be an 8 bolt f/w. DO NOT FORGET TO GET THIS FLYWHEEL because while you have the trans out everything is opened up. DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE.... Also buy a 1 gallon jug of Halvoline mercron/dextronIII and change the fluid. If you don't have the coin to do this all at once...... SAVE, SAVE, SAVE......
PS...The KCC behaves just like stock, it HAS a lighter pedal feel and is a perfect clutch for a mild bolt on car like yours, don't pay more for a brand name. If you are drag racing then go for a spec 2 or 2+. The king cobra clutch(Valemoe/Ford Racing) is what is on a an 03/04 cobra from the factory(they also come with an alum. f/w stock btw). BUY this clutch.
-2001asp
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! What's the point of the Aluminun flywheel? Also, no one has told me what I should look on paying for the clutch and adj. quad. install.

My car will stay pretty stock, so I think i'm going to just go with the KCC. Question, what does "chattering" mean..... I thought it only did this, with the spec clutches, during the break in period?
 
1989CobraMakeOv

1989CobraMakeOv

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ok I called SVT and they ran my VIN and said I have an 11" clutch, therefore the 10.5" will not work, UNLESS a change the flywheel. I don't have the $$$ for the flywheel, so i'll have to go with an 11" clutch...

What's a decent OEM replacement for this car? thanks!
 
O

omj

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I have a used but in great condition stock 03/04 I'll sell you for $100. Install should be around $200 if you don't have headers. I"ll have a BBK adjustable cable, fwa, and quadrant that I'll be selling for $50 in a few weeks. I'm switching to a Fiore microclick for no good reason other than that I have it.
 
2001asp

2001asp

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Make life easy for yourself and either buy the used clutch from this guy above or call D&D performance and get their Kingcobra. Tell them what you have, also when you replace you clutch, if your not sticking a new F/W in the car atleast get your stocker turned by a machine shop. It is the next thing to stock. It won't feel eany different then what you have already.
Also you ask about what an alum/ f/w does. It takes of about 18LBS off the rotational mass of the stock f/w=more of your motors hp gets to the wheels. Its the same kind of thought as installing underdrive pulleys. I know its expensive, but very worth it. When you take away this extra weight it makes the car feel 100-200lbs lighter when you go WOT. I had my clutch, flywheel, steeda quadrant kit and fluid changed installed and adjusted for $400 BTW.
 
1989CobraMakeOv

1989CobraMakeOv

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2001asp said:
Make life easy for yourself and either buy the used clutch from this guy above or call D&D performance and get their Kingcobra. Tell them what you have, also when you replace you clutch, if your not sticking a new F/W in the car atleast get your stocker turned by a machine shop. It is the next thing to stock. It won't feel eany different then what you have already.
Also you ask about what an alum/ f/w does. It takes of about 18LBS off the rotational mass of the stock f/w=more of your motors hp gets to the wheels. Its the same kind of thought as installing underdrive pulleys. I know its expensive, but very worth it. When you take away this extra weight it makes the car feel 100-200lbs lighter when you go WOT. I had my clutch, flywheel, steeda quadrant kit and fluid changed installed and adjusted for $400 BTW.
Click to expand...

When you say, "mike life easy on yourself.." what do you mean? Are you saying you like the KCC? Or are you implying it's the most economical? If that's the case, then it's not that much more to go up to the SPEC stage 1. It's like $9. I've had people say they weren't impressed with the KCC and that the spec is much better, but I’ve heard from other people that the KCC is a good clutch. I think I’m going to go with the SPEC. But the only reason it's not a slam dunk, is because some people have said the spec chatters. I'm unsure of what exactly the means.
 
2001asp

2001asp

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I ment go for the economical route. I would go with what ford ment for our cars, I think the people that have had problems have had them for 2 reasons. 1-They installed the clutch and did a 6000rpm launch instead of the mandatory 500 mile break in(This is on all clutches btw.) 2- They had way more power then the clutch was rated for. This Kcc is a ford piece....
 
JohnnysCobra

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1989CobraMakeOv said:
When you say, "mike life easy on yourself.." what do you mean? Are you saying you like the KCC? Or are you implying it's the most economical? If that's the case, then it's not that much more to go up to the SPEC stage 1. It's like $9. I've had people say they weren't impressed with the KCC and that the spec is much better, but I’ve heard from other people that the KCC is a good clutch. I think I’m going to go with the SPEC. But the only reason it's not a slam dunk, is because some people have said the spec chatters. I'm unsure of what exactly the means.
Click to expand...

i have heard good things about both setups. Both are great STOCK-MILD MODDED replacements.
 

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