I'm looking at the Ford racing clutch and buying all the extras or the exedy master clutch kit. Do I need a new flywheel or is it just a good idea while it's already apart?
what clutch should I buy?
- Thread starter K_Labs
- Start date
You should have your flywheel replaced or resurfaced.
Buy a clutch for the future. If you plan to supercharge or nos, buy one that can hold it. Sucks to do it more than you have to.
But..... Don't go too extreme, drivability may suffer, as well as your leg muscles. I have a exedy Mach 500 and 04 Cobra aluminum flywheel going in when my tranny is done being built.
I chose the Mach 500 because it is organic on both sides for smooth engagement, yet supposed to hold alot of power. We'll see.
Coming from a centerforce dual friction and a ram billet steel flywheel. That was a decent pair as well.
Buy a clutch for the future. If you plan to supercharge or nos, buy one that can hold it. Sucks to do it more than you have to.
But..... Don't go too extreme, drivability may suffer, as well as your leg muscles. I have a exedy Mach 500 and 04 Cobra aluminum flywheel going in when my tranny is done being built.
I chose the Mach 500 because it is organic on both sides for smooth engagement, yet supposed to hold alot of power. We'll see.
Coming from a centerforce dual friction and a ram billet steel flywheel. That was a decent pair as well.
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Stage one says it can handle 430 ft lbs torque at the fly I don't have any plans of going that crazy although I'd like to. Good advice though I appreciate it.
I have a steeda clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. It's a 94. How's the pedal feel on your 500?
Don't know yet, just got it in the mail today. Putting it on in three weeks.
If you don't have any "big" performance plans, the stage one kit is a good deal. I paid a little under that for just my flywheel. It's all about what you need though.
If you don't have any "big" performance plans, the stage one kit is a good deal. I paid a little under that for just my flywheel. It's all about what you need though.
If you go and search you can find my clutch replacement tale of woe, just things to watch out for. Also the part numbers for all the bits. To do this right I would suggest to plan on replacing the following.
- Clutch kit
- Flywheel bolt and dowel kit (get the Ford Racing one)
- Throwout / Release Bearing (get the Ford Racing one)
- Pilot Bearing (get the ford Racing one)
- Clutch Fork (get the Ford Racing one)
- Clutch Fork Pivot Ball
While you're in there maybe look at replacing your clutch cable with an OEM Ford one if it's still the original or has enough miles on it. And you may want to plan on a firewall adjuster and quadrant depending on your final clutch selection. Often you'll find getting the pedal feel and adjustment difficult with the stock setup. That being said from what I went through I'd try the new clutch FIRST and then maybe just have the order button ready for the quadrant and adjuster if it just isn't adjusting the way you need.
For the clutch itself, I ended up with a stock replacement style one from Luk in the end, works fine but I don't plan anything more than maybe 30-40 HP if I'm lucky. If I go crazy and supercharge this thing I'll be going back over the power train anyways so I'll worry about that unlikely situation then.
For the flywheel I'd almost be prone to say replace it at the same time but again depends on the wear, in some cases it's a better safe than sorry situation. If you go the new rather than resurface route, just be sure to buy the right type of flywheel for how you plan to drive it. Some of the flywheels can be absolute garbage on a primarily street driven car.
- Clutch kit
- Flywheel bolt and dowel kit (get the Ford Racing one)
- Throwout / Release Bearing (get the Ford Racing one)
- Pilot Bearing (get the ford Racing one)
- Clutch Fork (get the Ford Racing one)
- Clutch Fork Pivot Ball
While you're in there maybe look at replacing your clutch cable with an OEM Ford one if it's still the original or has enough miles on it. And you may want to plan on a firewall adjuster and quadrant depending on your final clutch selection. Often you'll find getting the pedal feel and adjustment difficult with the stock setup. That being said from what I went through I'd try the new clutch FIRST and then maybe just have the order button ready for the quadrant and adjuster if it just isn't adjusting the way you need.
For the clutch itself, I ended up with a stock replacement style one from Luk in the end, works fine but I don't plan anything more than maybe 30-40 HP if I'm lucky. If I go crazy and supercharge this thing I'll be going back over the power train anyways so I'll worry about that unlikely situation then.
For the flywheel I'd almost be prone to say replace it at the same time but again depends on the wear, in some cases it's a better safe than sorry situation. If you go the new rather than resurface route, just be sure to buy the right type of flywheel for how you plan to drive it. Some of the flywheels can be absolute garbage on a primarily street driven car.
I feel like I'm already having trouble hooking up with a almost bone stock car I can't imagine forced induction.
Just need better tires and suspension! $$
But yes, I forgot to add you need a Ford tob and pilot bearing, aftermarket ones are trash. Also get the pressure plate and flywheel bolts replaced like he mentioned too.
Yes. Yes. Yes.
Did I forget anything?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximum-motorsports-clutch-cable.html?source=igodigital this cable? & do u have a link to the pivot ball I can't find one
Yep, that's the cable. It's made for maximum motorsports by the manufacturer that originally made the oem ones. Slightly modified to fit firewall adjusters.
Here is the pivot ball.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7602/79-04-Mustang-Clutch-Fork-Pivot-Stud
Here is the pivot ball.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7602/79-04-Mustang-Clutch-Fork-Pivot-Stud
+1 on what LDC and Cowtown said. The Maximum cable is excellent. If you decide to change quadrants and get a firewall adjuster, go with Maximum also. If AM does not have all the parts, you can buy direct from Maximum.
I already have a steeda firewall adjuster and quadrant. I'll definitely be switching my order to get the MM cable. I can't wait.
Thanks for the link just bought the pivot ball
It might all sound excessive, but once you've dropped the tranny once, you'll realize how much you don't care to do it again,especially for a small cheap part you could have replaced.
Also, I don't know all that much about the t5, but per the ford manual for the t45, so grease is also required.
Also, I don't know all that much about the t5, but per the ford manual for the t45, so grease is also required.
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Changed my steed a cable for the MM one today!
I don't know if my older post came up but just be aware you MAY have an issue with that MM cable if you got it from AM, I did. The only one they carried was too short for my Cobra and I ended up having to ship it back. They were great about it but after some poking around I think the one on the site was actually the part number for the older Fox body cars. It may be OK with a new clutch and stock quad but I don't think given how mine was that you'll have much if any adjust-ability with a firewall adjuster. So try it first with the stock quadrant (assuming you haven't replaced that yet) and see if it works. I ended up just going with the Ford OEM replacement cable for SN-95 Mustangs which is a bit longer and I now have a bunch of adjust-ability.
Best of luck, it was quite a trial for me but that was more to do with a completely incompetent shop destroying parts.
Edit --- here is my snippet from my cable thread...
"So for anyone that runs into this later. The MMCL-11 Maximum Motorsports clutch cable DOES NOT work with the SR Quadrant and adjuster. I suspect this would likely be the case with the Steeda and other double hook adjusters as the shape and hooks are quite similar."
Best of luck, it was quite a trial for me but that was more to do with a completely incompetent shop destroying parts.
Edit --- here is my snippet from my cable thread...
"So for anyone that runs into this later. The MMCL-11 Maximum Motorsports clutch cable DOES NOT work with the SR Quadrant and adjuster. I suspect this would likely be the case with the Steeda and other double hook adjusters as the shape and hooks are quite similar."
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