What Cam do Cobra's like?

[JoeRacer]

The Ford Alphabet cams were hot back in the early 90's. Twenty years later there are plenty of other off the shelf cams that are better in every aspect (except maybe price). If you want to spend a little more (around $300'ish) then a custom grind cam will give you the best results. FTI is good to go with. Ed Curtis definitely won't steer you wrong and he has plenty of proven combos out there. Before you decide on the cam you need to decide on the heads. It'd be a shame to get a nice custom cam made up for your GT40's and a year later realize you want to get a set of decent heads and make some real power

 

[RydeOn]

The thing that makes a "cobra cam" is the lift being ground with the intention of running 1.7 roller rockers. The crane 2031 has the same lift and duration of a e303 but for 1.7 rockers instead of 1.6 rockers. Crane also made the e303 and cranes part # for that was 2041. But since Crane had business problems a few years ago I am not sure if those old grinds are made anymore. You also switch rockers to 1.6 and run the e303 and have the same effect. With stock iron heads, you don't really need to spend more than $100 or so on a nice used cam.

 

[johnh]

I bought the 2031 kit from Summit when my car was stock and I really liked it. It pulled past 5500 rpm and it has more lift on the exhaust side to make up for the small exhaust ports.

here's a link to Summit

Crane Cams 444226 - Crane CompuCam Camshaft and Spring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I know a custom cam would be the to go but this cam was designed for our cars. I would be curious on the HP difference if any when compared to a custom.

It worked great on a turbo set up too..

 

[Svt KC]

Anyone try the Steeda #18 cam its like $200 bucks?

 

[TX93Cobra]

from looking at the cam specs it looks like it would be a pretty descent cam for stock longblock

 

[UWISSSH]

The Steeda #18 was another old school cam recommended for the 93 Cobra's, like the 2031 was back in the day. I went with the Anderson B-2 which had good specs and sounded really good but after driving for awhile it would surge at the stoplights once warmed up. Probably because it was a blower cam and I was running n/a, lol.

I never did get around to putting a blower on the car so I cant say if it would've fixed the warm idle. I would assume so but our cobra computers are finicky so who knows.

 

[jrgoffin]

Had the Crane 2031 cam in my old Fox with a Cobra motor. It was a great cam, especially with the split duration. With a 10.5:1, 306 motor, it really was a beast and pulled hard all the way. Also had one of the old Crane Interceptors, so that help me tweak it. Sure miss that car!!

 

[BHAM]

actually the stock 1985-1988 cam with the 1.7 rockers was a great performer. you could retard it 4 degrees and its launched many gt40 headed cars into the 11's na power. i also like the tfs1 cam on the gt40 heads if you put it in at a 107.5 icl or a few degreed advanced 105.5 to 106.5..hope this helps

 

[Curt]

93 Cobra Cam??.???

So let me ask you guys what you think....

I have a 93 Cobra all stock execpt exhaust and some crazy cam in it that was in it before I purchased the car.

Since I love torque, I cant stand the fact that any rpm lower than 2000 it bucks hard and has no power. It will throw you in the seat over 5K tho (thats the positive). I want the car to idle correct and drive like a factory cobra/5.0

It seems to be relativley hard to find the original 93 cobra cam...and from what I read it isnt a great cam anyway. Is is a good idea to just put a factory 87-93 5.0 cam in the car? Will that make it run correctly for my daily driver in the summer?

If I do this is there any other mods that need to be made? What degree do I set the cam at and should I leave the car at 10 degrees btd center or advance the timing to 14?

Not a race car...just want a nice cruiser with some good low end power. Any suggestions Im open but getting a new cam put in this month.....Thanks!!

 

[JoeRacer]

The drivability issues are a symptom that could indicate a problem other than the cam itself. It is likely a tuning issue, and possibly a combination of other problems. I'd start with checking to see if it is throwing any codes, fix those, and then check to make sure the IAC is functioning properly (and clean), make sure the TPS is functioning properly (and set to correct setting ~.99V +/- .01V). Usually when the IAC or TPS are not functioning correctly they throw a code, but I've had a bad TPS in the past that didn't throw a code (and caused horrible drivability below 2000rpm). Also check fuel pressure, and ignition components (although lack of fuel typically shows in the power falling off after a second of acceleration, and spark is stumbling on partial throttle tip in). Once those are fixed THEN figure out your cam choice. You can gain a lot of your lowend back while still retaining better pull up top than a stock cam with the aftermarket cams mentioned in this post. In the end (unless you go back to stock) you will want to get a good tune (not mail order!) to ensure the best driving characteristics.

 

[Curt]

I had the car at ford for two weeks. they tested EVERY sensor on the car. Absolutely nothing wrong with car. Car only pulls 14lbs vacuum at idle (no leak) so ford came to the conclusion that the car has an aftermarket cam. It lumps a lot at idle and will not hold a steady idle. After driving 2 other 93 cobras, I am confident in their findings that the car has an aftermarket cam in it. The rest of the car is completly stock other than exhaust but the prior owner at some point did have a blower on the car.

That being said....this post is all over the place with opinions on what cam to use.

My goal is stock driveablility/idle....get back all of my lost torque. Would like additional power but not if it will compromise anything above. I do not intend on doing any additonal performance work to the car and will keep it stock.

This being said....should I search for a 93 cobra cam, put a stock 87-93 cam in...or is there an aftermarket that would achieve what I am looking for. Thanks for any advice.

 

[TX93Cobra]

seeing as you only are pulling 14lbs of vacuum, id assume that the cam is your driveability problems... BUT the only reason is probably because it hasnt been tuned... you would be surprised how much better the car will drive with a tune. from what ive seen the trick flow stage 1 cam has good driving characteristics and will perform better than the stock cams.:thumbsup:

i dont think you have too big of a cam in there.... but it sounds like the problems people with the e303 have....(this guy ..) i only pull 14lbs of vacuum. and low end performance isnt good. driveability is fine though after i got the car tuned. no idle problems or surging what so ever.

 

[fire_4_effect]

i am so wanting to cam out my cobra but the work behind it kind of stirs me away... especially, i can't seem to find the time! damn! i would like the stage 3 comp cams... if this happens.

 

[TX93Cobra]

i am so wanting to cam out my cobra but the work behind it kind of stirs me away... especially, i can't seem to find the time! damn! i would like the stage 3 comp cams... if this happens.

i hear its not too bad for mod motors, just expensive!

 

[JoeRacer]

The GT/LX cam is more 'aggressive' than the Cobra cam, but it would work fine. If I am going to bother to put a cam in a car, I want to put something that offers decent performance. The stock cam falls on its face over 3500rpm. Get a mild aftermarket cam (stay away from the ford alphabet cams, go with something like the Trick Flow Stage 1, or the milder Lunati grinds).

 

[TX93Cobra]

totally agree.. im getn rid of this e303 pronto =)

 

[Curt]

Thanks for info.....I agree the ford letter cams nobody has anything good to say about them. Two questions. Do you guys feel the 87-93 mustang cam is better than the 93 cobra spec cam? Is there a cam that offers great low end power and still has power over 3500rpm? I love torque. I dont want to give up the lower end.

 

[cobrasnake95]

I have to say I really did like the Ford Motorsport Z-303 camshaft in my old 95 Cobra. I bought it when they first came on the scene and the more I opened up my I and E, the more it responded. I ended up cutting a 1.62 60ft with that cam and it would pull so high I had trouble getting the stock T5 to spin up 4th and would often *coast* through the lights at 13.00's @ 110.7 MPH... A lot "tighter" sounding than the X or the E or a TFS1. I considered it to be an edge size cam for a stock shortblock hydro roller combo-

 

[cobrasnake95]

I actually wouldnt mind having the cam that was in my first 88GT.... It was a stock California Mass Air Car!
It did have a tiny tight little rumble to it and would pull the change out of your pockets and lock the seat belts up in 4th with 3.55's on McCrearys G60s
So.. I wonder what it was? an 87 SD cam? an 88 SD cam? or a special grind for the Cali cars.... The OP would love this cam if it could be found

 

[SVT_Jay]

Steeda 18 cam - Good choice

Anyone try the Steeda #18 cam its like $200 bucks?

Crane (David Bly, I think...) worked very closely with Steeda back in the early '90s when the GT-40 stuff came on the market. I pulled my heads, lower and upper intake and sent it off to Steeda for port matching and then installed the Steeda 18 cam. I was so impressed with the cam that I have used it four times since. The 93 Cobra ran 11.92@112 mph after we put long tube headers on.

Here is a link to the cam which is Steeda Part # 063-0018:

Steeda #18 Camshaft - Steet/Strip for 1985-1995 Ford Mustang 063-0018


I loved the sound and it pulled really hard past 6500 but I was a little worried about durability so I shifted at 6000.

Like I said, I love the 18 and have used it over and over. This cam with 1.7 roller rockers is the way to go for driveability, a little lump in the idle and power to let the motor run well if you stay naturally aspirated. I even have one in my wife's 347 right now...

Just my $0.02...

Jay