What "bolt-in" relo bracket is best with P springs?

Fun4me

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What "bolt-in" relo bracket is best with P springs? And Steeda chromoly non-adjustable lca's. For a DD. Thanks
 

corruptor

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You're probably going to need to determine what trade off you're willing to accept for the "best" relocation bracket for a minimal drop like the P springs.

BMR - more adjustment notches, but they appear to sit lower to the ground
CHE - only 1 adjustment notch, but provide the most ground clearance

I'm running P springs without relocation brackets, though I did notice a loss of traction with the LCA pointing upwards. I have a set of CHE brackets sitting in my garage; can't decide if I want to install them and lose some ground clearance or live with the slight loss of traction.
 

S197OnSpray

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The FRPP Boss 302s bolt in brackets have two adjustment holes and don't sit too low, best of both worlds.
 

Fun4me

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You're probably going to need to determine what trade off you're willing to accept for the "best" relocation bracket for a minimal drop like the P springs.

BMR - more adjustment notches, but they appear to sit lower to the ground
CHE - only 1 adjustment notch, but provide the most ground clearance

I'm running P springs without relocation brackets, though I did notice a loss of traction with the LCA pointing upwards. I have a set of CHE brackets sitting in my garage; can't decide if I want to install them and lose some ground clearance or live with the slight loss of traction.[/QUOTE]

How slight? I rear on the Metco brackets, that they are only recommended on Drag applications, not street cars. So I guess I'm looking for brackets that will perfectly restore the geometry after the 1"drop?
 

corruptor

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The loss of traction was pretty apparent to me. Felt like there was less weight or downward force on the rear end under heavy acceleration.

Yes, ideally you can restore the geometry to stock otherwise a slight downward angle will affect handling and braking under high performance driving situations (more force is being applied to the rear end)
 

S197OnSpray

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Will these work w/ steeda lca's? How much?

My Hotchkis arms fit and they are quite big on the ends so you should be good with the Steeda arms which have smaller ends than mine. Search around and you will probably find pictures of a few different LCA's used with these brackets. I think I got mine for under $150 or right around that price range.
 

Fun4me

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on P springs you dont need them


I want to do everything once. springs, cc plates, dampers, sways, panhard, relo brackets. Im deciding if want/need to do UCA's (and bracket)?

For Lca relo I'll probably go w/ steeda, they look like they have alot of adjustment holes and will work perfect w/ my steeda lca's.

This is a DD, but I want it done right the first time, as I dont have a garage to mess around w/ this stuff myself.

Does anyone think I need to do UCA's? Adjustable? Mount?
 

86merc

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I had the stress "boss" and "sport" springs in my car.

If you weld them in you have to cut and grind them off to remove them. I would say bolt them in and tach weld them in a few spots. Not fully welding them in.
 

Fun4me

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I had the stress "boss" and "sport" springs in my car.

If you weld them in you have to cut and grind them off to remove them. I would say bolt them in and tach weld them in a few spots. Not fully welding them in.
you're talking about tach welding the bolt-in style ones, not the weld only?
 

86merc

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you're talking about tach welding the bolt-in style ones, not the weld only?

yes, tach weld the bolt in style brackets. A couple, well thought out, 1" long beads on each bracket helps keep them in place with out having to do major work to remove the brackets down the road.
 

Fun4me

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So if the consensus is to weld them..... It looks like the Steeda weld-in ones offer the most adjustment holes. Thanks for your input guys. It seems like nobody w/ p springs even bothers to do a relocation bracket.
 

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