Wetsanding?

[FISHTAIL]

Going to a more aggressive compound is what's needed the wet sanding is taking it farther than required and you may sand or burn through since it sounds like you haven't done it much.

Ok, I hear you, but my question still stands...what is a suggestion for a more aggressive compound?

 

[FISHTAIL]

Alright, I caved. I picked up a sanding block and some 2000 and 3000 grit paper. Gonna try a few of the really nasty spots on the hood tonight. Any suggestions for how to do this without screwing the pooch?

I was gonna let the paper soak in some soapy water until it was good and saturated, then keep the area wet and soapy while I work it. Wiping it off frequently to keep it clean. Any other suggestions, aside from staying away from the edges? Anything to watch out for? Advice on how much, or how little pressure to use?

What I'm going to be doing is trying to see if I can smooth out the edges on the pitting to make it hard to see. The etched areas of the clear coat are all still cleared, so I suppose if I really knew what I was doing I could sand until it's all even, but I"m worried the paper will eat through the bottom of the "crater" before the top evens out with it. Even attached to a block.

The plan is to start with 3000, and see if that makes it presentable, then move onto 2000 if it doesn't. Going very easy. Then follow it up with an orange pad/SSR3 to see if it takes the pitting out. Sound like a good plan?

 

[RC-5.0]

Alright, I caved. I picked up a sanding block and some 2000 and 3000 grit paper. Gonna try a few of the really nasty spots on the hood tonight. Any suggestions for how to do this without screwing the pooch?

I was gonna let the paper soak in some soapy water until it was good and saturated, then keep the area wet and soapy while I work it. Wiping it off frequently to keep it clean. Any other suggestions, aside from staying away from the edges? Anything to watch out for? Advice on how much, or how little pressure to use?

What I'm going to be doing is trying to see if I can smooth out the edges on the pitting to make it hard to see. The etched areas of the clear coat are all still cleared, so I suppose if I really knew what I was doing I could sand until it's all even, but I"m worried the paper will eat through the bottom of the "crater" before the top evens out with it. Even attached to a block.

The plan is to start with 3000, and see if that makes it presentable, then move onto 2000 if it doesn't. Going very easy. Then follow it up with an orange pad/SSR3 to see if it takes the pitting out. Sound like a good plan?

No need to let the paper "soak". Just need a clean surface, and when I wet sand, I use a spray bottle that has about 1/4 teaspoonful of soap in it (32oz bottle).

If it's pitted, sanding down to remove it will probably just get rid of whatever clear is left. 2000 may end up being too much, but without seeing it, hard to tell. just do a few passes then keep checking paper for color. As long as it is only milky white you're ok.
RC

 

[FISHTAIL]

No need to let the paper "soak". Just need a clean surface, and when I wet sand, I use a spray bottle that has about 1/4 teaspoonful of soap in it (32oz bottle).

If it's pitted, sanding down to remove it will probably just get rid of whatever clear is left. 2000 may end up being too much, but without seeing it, hard to tell. just do a few passes then keep checking paper for color. As long as it is only milky white you're ok.
RC

Yeah what you said is what I'm concerned about..burning through the clear trying to remove the pits. The car needs an engine, so it's not going anywhere at the moment...I did buy the stuff to sand it, but I haven't worked up the nerve yet.

What I plan to do is just get is as clean as I can with the PC, drop a new engine in it (I have a line on one an hour or so away) then once it's running, drive it down to my friends house who paints and have him give it a look...see if he thinks it's worth trying, and if so, have him show me.

 

[ColorMatched]

With 2000 and 3000 paper you are taking just a little bit off at a time. As you take 3-4 passes, you can wipe the surface and see how much (or how little) you've taken off the surface. Just keep in mind you can always take a little more off, but you can't put it back on. It may even be beneficial trying to find a paint depth gauge if you're really concerned that there is not much clear left on the car.

 

[FISHTAIL]

With 2000 and 3000 paper you are taking just a little bit off at a time. As you take 3-4 passes, you can wipe the surface and see how much (or how little) you've taken off the surface. Just keep in mind you can always take a little more off, but you can't put it back on. It may even be beneficial trying to find a paint depth gauge if you're really concerned that there is not much clear left on the car.

Yeah I'm definitely concerned about the depth of clear. I'm gonna be busy swapping the engine out the next couple of evenings, but once I have it up and running again, I'll get back on making it look decent in earnest.

I think my friend that paints has a depth gauge, so I might ping him for a bit of help before I jump into the wetsand job.

I've started buffing out the sides of the car now, and they aren't pitted at all, it's just the hood/trunk, and really just mainly the hood for whatever reason. The rear 1/4 that I buffed earlier this week looks new. Took a while, but it was worth the effort...this thing will look like a different car when I'm finished, that's for sure. To bad it has that tiny bit of damage behind the passenger door from getting hit in a parking lot..it's about the only real thing wrong with the body.