It might look 1000 times better but it will never be as durable...If your car sits in the garage all the time it will look good forever with an aftermarket re-paint. Any thing I paint looks better than factory by a mile,but I get all hyped up about cars with good factory paint! I love it.I could make my car look anyway I wanted for free,but I leave it alone.You simply can't know why a car was painted,unless you had it done.I dont believe anyone as to why they had something painted.Leave it alone.Oh and a color change is a nightmare!Unless they strip you car to the bare hull,motor,interior,and all it's not right.
Wet sanding
- Thread starter Christian
- Start date
Thanks for the reply spraying away. I think I am finally convinced that my blk 04 will never be the Mineral Grey or Dark Shadow Grey I really wanted. I agree that it is better to leave the factory paint alone. I will just focus on suspension & other performance mods. I guess like you are saying its just deal with what you have. The last question I had for you was, is it possible to find paint/clear coat with the durability of the OEM?... I guess I am trying to beat a dead horse! :beer:
IMOKevin the Clean 1 said:
Not even close
Aftermaket uses mechanical adhesion,"sanding"
O.E uses chemical ,and electrical adhesion. Ill explain that in a few.
Here is how e-coat works:
The parts to be coated are attached to metal racks and immersed in an e-coat paint bath. An electrical charge (either positive or negative) is applied to the rack and therefore to the parts attached to it. An opposite electrical charge is applied to the paint bath. The metal parts attract the oppositely-charged paint particles. As the paint is deposited it begins to act as an insulator and deposition slows, stopping at a thickness that is determined by the amount of voltage applied. Even though deposition may have slowed or be complete at one area on the surface of the part, deposition will continue at any uncoated or incompletely-coated areas of the part until complete coverage is achieved. As you can see, the very nature of the e-coat process tends to produce a complete and uniform coat--even on the most complex pre-assembled parts!
The parts to be coated are attached to metal racks and immersed in an e-coat paint bath. An electrical charge (either positive or negative) is applied to the rack and therefore to the parts attached to it. An opposite electrical charge is applied to the paint bath. The metal parts attract the oppositely-charged paint particles. As the paint is deposited it begins to act as an insulator and deposition slows, stopping at a thickness that is determined by the amount of voltage applied. Even though deposition may have slowed or be complete at one area on the surface of the part, deposition will continue at any uncoated or incompletely-coated areas of the part until complete coverage is achieved. As you can see, the very nature of the e-coat process tends to produce a complete and uniform coat--even on the most complex pre-assembled parts!
Thats why if you cut a door apart,it has e-coat on the in-side.It goes everywhere and covers everything.The biggest problem with aftermarket products is adhesion.It is extremely finicky,and the factories figured that out in the late 80's! All of them!
It all boiled down to adhesion.As the cars moved down the line they were e-coated.Then they were heated to dry the e-coat.Then the top coats were applied.A year or two later the tops of all the big three's finest,had paint blowing off in sheets!Turns out they were heating the e-coat for too long,and the top coat didnt soften the e-coat enough to melt in and bite good.Sorry this got sooooo off topic,but I forgot to take my medicine this morning.
Oh and Chrysler still hasn't gotten it yet.
Think about all of the 1st gen neons.
It all boiled down to adhesion.As the cars moved down the line they were e-coated.Then they were heated to dry the e-coat.Then the top coats were applied.A year or two later the tops of all the big three's finest,had paint blowing off in sheets!Turns out they were heating the e-coat for too long,and the top coat didnt soften the e-coat enough to melt in and bite good.Sorry this got sooooo off topic,but I forgot to take my medicine this morning.
Oh and Chrysler still hasn't gotten it yet.
Think about all of the 1st gen neons.
Ill call you one evening this week,and we'll talk about it.HISSMAN said:Who is someone I can trust in the area that will do a good repaint on my car? When you get under artificial lighting at World of wheels or shows like that, it looks like hell. I need more trophies.
-Jeff
My paint job is SOOO ORANGE PEELY it makes me sick.....
But as little as I drive it, waht little benefits, (ie. wet sand / repaint) do not outway the suffering.
But as little as I drive it, waht little benefits, (ie. wet sand / repaint) do not outway the suffering.
Thank you spraying away, for sheding some lite on this matter that I have been thinking about ever since I bought the car. I now understand what you mean by "top coat didnt soften the e-coat enough to melt in and bite good." Your description was a little complex at first but after you said that piece it makes more sense to me now than it did before.
I guess it all depends on what kind of owner your are. Most people would be happy with the durable factory clear coat. But if you are a perfectionist like me who keeps the car stored in a garage & only puts 4-6K on the car a year you might be okay doing something else. You have now made it a little more complicated for me to make a choice but that's okay. I think it is better to have all the facts from a factory paint pro like you. I am still leaning toward having a shop that has been doing exotics & custom street rods for over 40 years to give me the factory color I realy wanted from the start.
When I get ready to make the final decision I think I will flip a quarter up in the air. Either way you must sacrifice something. Durability vs. the overall condition of the optics on the surface!!! I do appreciate all of your help bud.
The 1 last question I had was: Do you think there are any advantages to having a pro with good paint & experience do a re-paint? Just curious. This is the last question I swear. I didn't take my medication today either. ;-) Thanks again...
:beer:
I guess it all depends on what kind of owner your are. Most people would be happy with the durable factory clear coat. But if you are a perfectionist like me who keeps the car stored in a garage & only puts 4-6K on the car a year you might be okay doing something else. You have now made it a little more complicated for me to make a choice but that's okay. I think it is better to have all the facts from a factory paint pro like you. I am still leaning toward having a shop that has been doing exotics & custom street rods for over 40 years to give me the factory color I realy wanted from the start.
When I get ready to make the final decision I think I will flip a quarter up in the air. Either way you must sacrifice something. Durability vs. the overall condition of the optics on the surface!!! I do appreciate all of your help bud.
The 1 last question I had was: Do you think there are any advantages to having a pro with good paint & experience do a re-paint? Just curious. This is the last question I swear. I didn't take my medication today either. ;-) Thanks again...
:beer:
Black2004Cobra said:
I agree with you completely. I feel lucky to have a car that is as nice to drive as our COBRA'S are but at the same time I feel very unlucky to have the kind of paint condition we do. How hard would it have been for Ford to take a little more time when applying the last stage of paint, the clear coat??? My SVT book that all orginal owners get says that Ford spends or takes extra time making the COBRA & Lightning. I say bullshit because if that were true are cars would not be so damn peely. A VW bug has better paint then us
Sorry for all the writing! Once again man, I know how you feel with your black COBRA!!!
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If you are talking about a custom shop vs. a collision facility,there is a big difference! Custom shops do work for picky people all the time. Most collision shops just get them out,and most custom get them done right. If you do it just dont rush them,or youll get a rush job. A color change on a late model car is a pain in the ass! There is a ton of disassembly that has to be done,and in my opion is that they need to be gutted,all the glass and interior.Most shops can take out the radiator,condenser,and all of the accesories around the motor,and paint all of the inner structures that way. Good luck,and I hope you are satisfied if you have it painted. :thumbsup:Kevin the Clean 1 said:
spraying away said:
There is also a huge difference in price. You're looking at around 2k (depending where you go) at a collision shop for a repaint and at a custom shop people pay anywhere from 4-8k for a solid color paint job usually black or dark blue will take the body work cost up... and don't think for a second that with a paint job you don't get what you pay for..... and some word of advice, don't let a friend paint your ride... unless its free :rockon:
illadvisedSnake said:
+1
Thanks guys for reading all the long messages & getting to the root of my questions. I appreciate your help & I will try & live with the factory paint for as long as I possibly can! :beer:
My 98 is real slick from the factory.If it gets to where you just cant bare to be seen in that terminator,I'd gladly swap you out!Kevin the Clean 1 said:
i have a question. I have a stain on my hood a spot where someting was i guess thrown on the car and ran. Would the only thing to fix this is a repaint.. I have tried tons of stuff and the only thing that somewhat helped was a claybar. But its still there and it bad, thanks jamie
dodgetoford
Banned
langka, google it
I just want to add that my buddy had his '03 mach wetsanded and buffed (under warranty because of excessive orange peel). They did a killer job, but the shop that did it told us that they did it so light and easy as to not take too much off. They basically just got the "high" spots off. It still had a slight peel look to it, but not nearly as much as it did originally.
My personal oppinion is shared with most of you, that the OEM paint is far more durable than any aftermarket job. When buying a used car, I only consider cars with original paint. It may not be the best, but I know it's going to last. EVERY time I have had paint work done, within a year I have regretted it.
My personal oppinion is shared with most of you, that the OEM paint is far more durable than any aftermarket job. When buying a used car, I only consider cars with original paint. It may not be the best, but I know it's going to last. EVERY time I have had paint work done, within a year I have regretted it.
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