Went from lowered to CJ springs: Do I need to remove my relocation brackets?

sharke

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I went from Eibach Springs to Cobra Jet springs. Now the rear of my car is a lot higher than it was before. I have relocation brackets in and my LCA's are in the top hole. How far off is the geometry going to be now? Unfortunately I can't easily remove the brackets (if I can remove them at all) because they are welded in. How screwed am I?
 

ModularSpeed

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On paper, you need to remove them.

In reality, it will depend on how the car does. Test, test and test more...
 

sharke

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On paper, you need to remove them.

In reality, it will depend on how the car does. Test, test and test more...

So far I have been having trouble. Part of the problem though is that I have to get used to this power level. I think I'm going to get a few more runs in and then reconsider.
 

54First

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LCA's are in the top hole. How far off is the geometry going to be now?

Relo brackets are not just for lowered cars. I would guess that with the new springs they are now at a steeper angle than before. That moves your instant center further to the rear of the car and gives you more launch bite. Putting it in a lower hole increases the effect. However, the further back the instant center is the fewer road/cornering manners the car will have. The higher body stance with the LCAs in the top hole probably approximates the lowered car with the LCAs in the second hole. Like ModularSpeed said, you'll have to test, but you probably don't need to remove the brackets.
I don't know what kind of brackets you have but the ones I've experienced have a bracket bolt and spacer in the factory hole. If you remove the spacer and slide the LCA in there, you're back to stock.

Steve
 

Tob

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I went from Eibach Springs to Cobra Jet springs. Now the rear of my car is a lot higher than it was before. I have relocation brackets in and my LCA's are in the top hole. How far off is the geometry going to be now? Unfortunately I can't easily remove the brackets (if I can remove them at all) because they are welded in. How screwed am I?

Not knowing all the particulars in terms of parts on your car, it sounds as though your intention was to change from a lowered car to one that works better at the strip? If that is indeed the case, as mentioned, you'll have to see what works best for you. Assuming you are using the CJ springs because you want improved weight transfer, the brackets may end up working well for you.

John Calvert, no novice himself, was using some custom made brackets for the CJ he was piloting a few years ago...

ccrp_0907_11_z%2b2009_FR500CJ_cobra_jet_mustang%2bcontrol_arm.jpg


More here.

If you still want too remove them, you can simply cut the brackets off by hand with a cutoff wheel in a 4" grinder (or a zip disc in an air grinder). Dress with a carbide burr in a die grinder or a hand file. If you have the tools it really isn't that hard.
 

sharke

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Tob, thank you so much for your post. That is interesting to see that an actual CJ. I wonder though if he was on the new cj springs that actually lower the car somewhat. I have the first generation ones that leave the rear at stock height.
 

F8L SN8K

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Drag racers play around with instant centers at different tracks/conditions. This is way four links are great on Drag cars because of the adjustability that can be had for all types of conditions. Different cars, different tracks like different set-ups.

Team Z helped develop the CJs suspension including the relocating the control arms. Some things that drag racers have been doing for years.
 
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