Well guys the title says it all. Can't believe I did it, I've been driving cars with manual transmissions for years and never done this. 04 Mystic Coupe 2.76 upper, all idlers, tuned. Well I was at about 6000rpm went to go from 3rd to 4th and somehow hit 2nd. Tach went way into to the red for just a second before I got the clutch back in. There was a really bad smell, not sure what it was. I pulled over immediately thinking I had most likely done major engine and rear end damage. To my surprise it is Running and driving fine. Maybe it's just me but it seems like there is a very slight noise coming from the eaton, it's like a really light rattle, Whiney sound you can only hear it at part throttle. Also it seems to just not pull quite as hard as before. What would you guys advise me to check out first. Ive heard maybe to check I'm just glad there are no noises that seem to be coming from my engine and it runs smooth and quiet other than aforementioned noise. Still really worried though.
Went from 3rd to 2nd WOT...what to check?
- Thread starter Smoke92
- Start date
compression test..
That^. Check your engine first.
Going to do a compression test on Monday after work. Hopefully the numbers will look good. Just curious do you guys remove the fuel pump relay or just unhook the injector connectors when you do it? Also I am supposed to block the throttle open for it right?
IIRC you just pull a fuse. It's a 35 in the engine compartment fuse box I believe.
I've done this once as well, it's a scary feeling to say the least. I calculated it out and it's about 9100 RPM for myself when I did it. My car ended up being fine as far as I can tell, as I've put several thousand miles on it since, hopefully nothing comes out in time from it.
This was a recent thread. Might help with your test. Hope everything checks out
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/945829-compression-tests.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/945829-compression-tests.html
Hey guys got the compression test done. Here are my Results:
Cylinder 1: 152 psi
Cylinder 2: 150 psi
Cylinder 3: 142 psi
Cylinder 4: 145 psi
Cylinder 5: 140 psi
Cylinder 6: 132 psi
Cylinder 7: 135 psi
Cylinder 8: 122 psi
I'm not sure what was going on but it was weird it kept getting progressively lower. I thought maybe it was my gauge so I went back to cylinder one when I was done and it was 145-150. Maybe it was because the engine had cooled for a bit before I started the test, (it was still warm but not at operating temp). I was really in good shape until I got to cylinder #8, it seems a little low. I dont know who the last person who worked on it was but 3 of the plugs were so loose I removed them using without even using the ratchet. Plug #8 turned out hard all the way out, so I'm concerned it was cross threaded in there..... It had some denso iridium plugs in it, not sure how you guys feel about them but I have never had good luck with those. What do you guys think of the results?
Cylinder 1: 152 psi
Cylinder 2: 150 psi
Cylinder 3: 142 psi
Cylinder 4: 145 psi
Cylinder 5: 140 psi
Cylinder 6: 132 psi
Cylinder 7: 135 psi
Cylinder 8: 122 psi
I'm not sure what was going on but it was weird it kept getting progressively lower. I thought maybe it was my gauge so I went back to cylinder one when I was done and it was 145-150. Maybe it was because the engine had cooled for a bit before I started the test, (it was still warm but not at operating temp). I was really in good shape until I got to cylinder #8, it seems a little low. I dont know who the last person who worked on it was but 3 of the plugs were so loose I removed them using without even using the ratchet. Plug #8 turned out hard all the way out, so I'm concerned it was cross threaded in there..... It had some denso iridium plugs in it, not sure how you guys feel about them but I have never had good luck with those. What do you guys think of the results?
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122 is bad......id do a leakdown test next and find out if the issue is in the head or bottom end.
Compression seems a bit lower than optimal IMO but, most are within 10% of each other. #8 is double the factory allowed coming in at 20%. Might want to have a leak down test performed to find out whats going on with that cylinder. Normally anything over 160-165 is considered healthy but, if your engine has some miles on it and a fairly hard life your numbers are probably about where they should be with the exception of #8.
I should add that for number 8 I had a hard time getting the tester threaded in as tight as I would have liked, those threads aren't quite right anymore since that plug turned out so hard. I'm not sure how much that contributed to it being low but I think it did make a little bit of difference. I still think I will do a leak down as well though. I should add that the car hadnt been running for about 4 hours when I performed the test, hopefully that didnt skew the results very much.
You are supposed to do the test with the engine warm but that would not explain the low cylinder.
As for the poor thread. Either way it's not the threads job to seal the tester. It's the o ring at the end of the thread. As long as it's seated it's all the same.
That burning smell right after the 3-2. Probably clutch slipping.
As for the poor thread. Either way it's not the threads job to seal the tester. It's the o ring at the end of the thread. As long as it's seated it's all the same.
That burning smell right after the 3-2. Probably clutch slipping.
Why don't you get the engine to operating temp and retest in the reverse order...starting with lowest compression cyclinder. The 3-2 is really an eye opener and makes you feel like shit. It's happen to me once and all my cylinders were 155+...500+rwhp. Don't count your engine shot just yet....
Good luck
Happens, my friend did it in his LS1 car was fine. Some other people on here went from 3rd to 2nd by mistake and they seemed to be OK.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...702-went-3rd-2nd-accidentally-high-rpm-2.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...702-went-3rd-2nd-accidentally-high-rpm-2.html
On that 122 cyl. You most likely bent a rod on the over rev or kissed a valve. Leakdown test will tell if you bent a valve. If the leakdown test comes up ok. Measure the piston height on cyl#8 vs a good cyl. If you bent a rod it will be slightly off from the rest (lower)
Would the rev limiter not stop the car from over reving and just hold it at the limiter?
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