Welding Lower Torque Boxes. 2 quick questions

[90FoX]

What's up you guys?

Did some research and couldn't find much on the info I need, hoping you guys can help me out.

1) People say you can damage your alternator and car's computer if you weld on your cars chassis/body. What do you recommend I do to prevent this? I've heard that I should disconnect the battery(this is obvious), disconnect all connections to alternator and unplug my computer, behind the pass kick panel. Is this all true and necessary or just internet myth?

2) I plan to weld all the seems of the lower torque boxes but it's a really tight space. An angle grinder will work on some areas but other areas I may have to use something smaller like my die grinder. I'm not sure if a sanding disc will be able to remove all of the paint/undercoating because the disc is flat and the torque box is raised about 1/8"-1/4". Will a wire wheel remove the paint or is there something else you can suggest that will help remove paint from uneven surfaces?

3) What is the best ground for the welder?

Thanks for any help :beer:

 

[buddha93]

What's up you guys?

Did some research and couldn't find much on the info I need, hoping you guys can help me out.

1) People say you can damage your alternator and car's computer if you weld on your cars chassis/body. What do you recommend I do to prevent this? I've heard that I should disconnect the battery(this is obvious), disconnect all connections to alternator and unplug my computer, behind the pass kick panel. Is this all true and necessary or just internet myth?

Anything is possible, but I've only disconnected the leads to my battery on any car I've ever welded on.

2) I plan to weld all the seems of the lower torque boxes but it's a really tight space. An angle grinder will work on some areas but other areas I may have to use something smaller like my die grinder. I'm not sure if a sanding disc will be able to remove all of the paint/undercoating because the disc is flat and the torque box is raised about 1/8"-1/4". Will a wire wheel remove the paint or is there something else you can suggest that will help remove paint from uneven surfaces?

If you really want to get in there and do what needs to be done, drop the rear axle to get to the uppers also. There are plenty of ways to remove paint/etc. I like the Roloc wheels

3) What is the best ground for the welder?

Any place you can get the clamp on the car itself.

Thanks for any help :beer:

There have been a bunch of write-ups on this if you look around. I'd look at some of these kits that have been around for a long time. IMO, as cheap as they are anymore, they are will worth it.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-heavy-duty-upper-lower-torque-box-kit.html

 

[BHAM]

What's up you guys?

Did some research and couldn't find much on the info I need, hoping you guys can help me out.

1) People say you can damage your alternator and car's computer if you weld on your cars chassis/body. What do you recommend I do to prevent this? I've heard that I should disconnect the battery(this is obvious), disconnect all connections to alternator and unplug my computer, behind the pass kick panel. Is this all true and necessary or just internet myth?

2) I plan to weld all the seems of the lower torque boxes but it's a really tight space. An angle grinder will work on some areas but other areas I may have to use something smaller like my die grinder. I'm not sure if a sanding disc will be able to remove all of the paint/undercoating because the disc is flat and the torque box is raised about 1/8"-1/4". Will a wire wheel remove the paint or is there something else you can suggest that will help remove paint from uneven surfaces?

3) What is the best ground for the welder?

Thanks for any help :beer:

ive welded 100's of torque boxes and never unplugged the computer. ive never even unplugged the battery!!!! ive never had one single problem...i guess if it was really a problem the exhaust guys would be doing the same thing, but they dont disconnect anything either.

as far as cleaning the location a wire wheel should do it...ive also burned through all the crap and the welds were just fine, its not like you are welding together the alaskan oil pipe...it will hold just fine. have fun:banana:

 

[90FoX]

Thanks for the info guys. I did search the write ups but I couldn't find answers to my questions. I have some wire wheels laying around, if they don't work I'll look into those Roloc wheels.

I already have a Wild Rydes Upper and Lower toque box kit but I'm only welding the lowers. I have plans in the near future to eliminate the uppers all together and they seem to be structurally sound.

 

[buddha93]

Thanks for the info guys. I did search the write ups but I couldn't find answers to my questions. I have some wire wheels laying around, if they don't work I'll look into those Roloc wheels.

I already have a Wild Rydes Upper and Lower toque box kit but I'm only welding the lowers. I have plans in the near future to eliminate the uppers all together and they seem to be structurally sound.

Then you have the kit that everyone else copied.

If your running an automatic, you'll see less stress on them but a 5-speed and traction are rough on them. Definitely think about doing the uppers. A lot of times a few of the spot welds pop loose and you'll get a popping noise everytime you take off from a dead stop.

 

[90FoX]

Then you have the kit that everyone else copied.

If your running an automatic, you'll see less stress on them but a 5-speed and traction are rough on them. Definitely think about doing the uppers. A lot of times a few of the spot welds pop loose and you'll get a popping noise everytime you take off from a dead stop.

Ya, maybe I will weld up the seams for the time being. But I don't want to weld up the entire upper torque box kit. As I mentioned I wont be needing UCA's in the near future :thumbsup: