Vortech Pipe Problem

CamCobra10

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Does anyone know which pipe to buy that will fix my problem, got the piping that came with the vortech kit and i'm sure this is the reason why i am only able to get 12 psi on my old strim with a 2.7 and now my ysi with a 3.0...not sure if i have to change the entire piping or just the elbow that i am pointing to in the picture...it's the smallest pipe on my entire setup and it goes into a curve so that definitely doesn't help :fm:


VortechPipe_zpscde9159d.jpg
 

triple-s

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I don't think that pipe is your problem.I have the same same piping on my setup and I'm making 21 pounds no problem maybe you have loose couplers.
 

01yellercobra

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I would check the BPV. Sounds like it can't hold the boost.

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CamCobra10

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If i'm not mistaken, its an sct blowthrough and I would have to bpv tomorrow to let y'all know...hoping its just something minor I can figure out tomorrow, made pretty good power on motor with the ysi/3.0 at only 12 psi, 527rwhp no race gas or meth, oh yeah that's going through a non locking 4r70w...if the bov can't handle the psi, which one would I need that works with the power its making?
 

redfire04gt

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Yup, Stanger is right...looks like the stock vortech black valve. It's probably staying open all the time bypassing air even at full throttle when it suppose to close. You need to upgrade to the vortech mondo or the procharger big red asap!
 

CamCobra10

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redfire do you have a part#...

stangbanger, honestly i can't tell you for sure, this is why...i put it on a few months before i went with an auto...it made 505 rwhp going through a 5spd with it, when i changed to an auto going through an strim and a ysi it made 508-527rwhp...keep in mind i went through 3 different tuners in all the dyno's...usually there's a loss with an auto, but i started making more...i'm selling my motor and intake early next year and going with a stroker 5.0 with 04 cobra heads, i will have it for sale in the next few months
 

Stanger00

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BOV_zpsee7826c0.jpg


is this the BOV, never fooled with it before, had my old mechanic install it years and years ago....

That is a bypass valve that is sold with base non intercooled vortech kits.

You really need a mondo and set it up as a bypass valve.

If you were to change your MAF to a blow thru than you would be able to run a blow off valve. Since you are draw thru you would need a bypass valve.

Have you driven this car on the street? You have any surging issues while cruising at highway speeds?
 

CamCobra10

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No problem with cruising, only problem i'm having is at start up having a hard time keeping idle, I need to hold the rpms to 1400 to keep it running and let it heat up for 5 minutes...also after I drive it turn it off then go back to start it up I need to keep the pedal floored to start it....not sure if that could be part of the problem with it.. how do you know I am a draw through, I was thinking I just needed to change the bov and that will fix it?
 

Stanger00

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It's usually safe to guess that a car that has a bypass valve is running a draw thru MAF setup.

I had a draw thru on my car for years and I just made the switch to blow thru MAF this year with my new motor.

You might have a IAC issue if it has trouble holding a idle or your cams have a lot of duration or the bypass valve is stuck open or you have a loose clamp. A lot of variables that could cause this symptom.

I also want to say that your valve is stuck open and is probably why you are not experiencing horrid cruising manners while at speed. I had this problem when i ran the little bypass on my car.

What kind of vacuum are you running at idle?

I have cams in my car that idle around 12" at idle and I have to let my car warm up for a LONG time before I can think of putting it in drive and if it dies on me it takes a good while to start back up and I do have to give it some gas to start back up.
 

CamCobra10

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i know i have an sct big air, may need to upgrade it along with the mondo bov

i do have blower cams, but it was never like this before

before i made these changes when i had to shift my car with the 5spd it use to sound like a turbo on every shift, ever since i put the auto in it never made that sound anymore

i would have to check the vacuum idle tomorrow

once it starts to idle it's around 1,100-1,200rpm, sounds like we have the same problem here...i'm writing all these questions down and calling my tuner letting him know what's going on
 

triple-s

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Best way to check for boost leaks is just to put a pressure gauge with a compressor hook up like one you can get a home depot with a pressure valve so you can control the pressure.this will allow you hear and feel for air leaks.but I didn't notice the stock bosch valve your using and let me tell you those things are junk for high boost applications so that's probably going to be the problem.
 

CamCobra10

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At least your car has somewhat of an idle, mine just wants to kill instantally! I definitely appreciate the help, I am 99.9% sure that's the problem now, i'm writing down the questions to ask my tuner tomorrow, thinking I might have to upgrade the sct big air and possible my 60# injectors
 

stangbanger856

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I'm deff intrested in it if you wana sell it then. Keep my SN and PM me when you deside to. We can work out something then
 

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