VMP '11-'17 Coyote Roush/Whipple replacement 3/4" aluminum fitting and tube kit

[Zinc03Cobra]

Morning All,

If you're like me with an older blower like 2.3 Whipple/Roush/TVS/VMP or similar type, you may have to check on your steel transfer tubes to the intercooler. I recently noticed my car felt "not as fast" and it was discovered that my inlet/outlet tubes were completed clogged with rust and corrosion. No coolant flowing meant extra heat, and that extra heat caused a mild surge around 3-4k RPMS at WOT. The car went nowhere fast. The coolant pump stopped working too, but is back up and running.

Thankfully I saw that VMP had improved upon this Ford design and I had these parts overnighted from Florida to California. This next part will sound unorthodox, but I used CLR in the coolant system to break up any remaining corrosion in an all aluminum system. After a weeks worth of flushing and purging the system, we're back to clean / clear fluid. She runs great again.

Pics attached of how bad it was.

Big thanks to Shaun @ AED for helping me figure this out. Thanks for reading.

YouTube Link to VMPs video on this.

Parts that I used.

VMP Replacement Aluminum 3/4" Hose Tube Kit '11-'17 Roush 5.0 L

Have the intercooler system water tubes (nipples) rusted out on your '11-'17 Roush Supercharged Mustang? VMP has designed a solution! VMP '11-'17 Coyote Roush Replacement 3/4" Aluminum Fitting and Tube KitAll-aluminum construction - no rustingAdjustable - rotate to position and then tighten down...

www.vmpperformance.com

 

[Stangra]

I installed a Roush just over 2 years ago. I just pulled these tubes because I upgraded the intercooler system to 1-1/4" plumbing and components and was surprised to find the beginning of some corrosion forming in there already, Especially in the lower fitting.

I also modified VMP's 1" fittings from a hose barb end to -20AN fittings

 

[wildman926]

I also modified VMP's 1" fittings from a hose barb end to -20AN fittings

Very interested on how you did this.

 

[me32]

Thanks for sharing

 

[Stangra]

I started by pressing out the 90° barbed tube from the base and discarding.
I made a polished stainless bolt flange, but can save and reuse the original too.

Then I separated the base into 2 parts so I could run a drill & NPT tap through the front half of the fitting without damaging the back half

Tapped threads and chamferred the mating surfaces at the edge for welding back together

Cut off threads from new 45° fitting to match the depth of my tapped hole + thickness of the bolt flange.

Welded together and turned on a lathe for a nice finish

Threaded the 45° fitting through the bolt flange and into the new fitting base. Ample thread sealant since there aren't many tapered threads to insure a pressure tight seal. O-ring seal functions as before modification, fitting can be swiveled in bolt flange before tightening (not just anywhere though, clearance for bolt heads is tight!)