Viking Shocks 3/5 setting

[1st usa car]

Installed my pretty shocks --- not sure what the proper settings will end up being but I am starting at 3 and 5.

I have stock SVTP springs and other stiffing suspension mods listed in my signature. Also, around 700whp.

I will never take her to the track or strip -- Mainly want to have the rear settle down and remain predictable when roll racing.

How do you adjust from this point? Car behaves ____ = +/- compression --- Car behaves _____ = +/- rebound ... It can take lots of experimenting getting it right... just point me in the right direction.

 

[SirShaun]

Roll racing, your going to want some sqwat. This means you can run Compression lower because your not maxing out the shocks on hard hits.

Compression is how easy the shock will compress. Down
Rebound is how quickly the shock recovers. Up

You always want rebound higher, than compression in the rear, as it resets the shock to compress again. I've ran 3/3 and it felt sloppy unsafe at 100+. I guess the lack of resistance and the aero made it feel quite uncomfortable.

The problem your going to have with low compression and that ability to sqwat, is bounciness. I believe I ended up settling at 4/5 or 5/6 for cruising. It takes the shock well enough in 2nd and 3rd. It's still a bit bouncy, but I can live with it.

You won't feel the bounciness when your laid into it, because of weight transfer. 3 feels real good when you got that tach laid over. In reality though it's what you can live with. What's best for roll racing, is not what's best for comfort.

 

[Joewee500]

I'm at 6c 14r. Ride is much more comfortable than 2c I tried at the track. It squats better but still melts tires at 40 depending on the road.


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[SirShaun]

I might of been thinking about this wrong all along lol, if this reads correctly. I thought the higher the rebound, the quicker it rebounded. This reads the opposite. I might be able to lessen the bounce with a higher rebound?

"The rebound setting adjusts how quickly or slowly the shock absorber will extend after being compressed. Setting it stiffer will slow down the time it takes to rebound, setting it softer will allow the shock absorber to extend quicker."

Your compression is fine at 3-4 for roll racing. I'm at a loss now on rebound ha. Hopefully a shock expert will chime in. My shit still works as its doing this number / _ / _ / _ / but shit I'll take a little bounce out if all it takes is a little more rebound. I figured it'd make it worst.

 

[1st usa car]

hmmm - it is a confusing thing. but current settings are doing pretty good -- it has the slighest bounce when driving regular road ---car does not bounce on bumps Oddly, no bounce when I get on the gas --- car is just sticking and being good -- I want to mess around with the settings but no point on perfecting the settings because I am switching tires soon.

 

[oldstv]

So, what setting will give the smoothest ride on the street, or should i say the closest to stock?

 

[RedVenom48]

I keep my warriors are 0C 2R for normal street driving. I feel it evens out nicely with Viking 150# rear springs with SVTPP struts and springs up front.

What used to be a very harsh ride with all SVTPP shocks springs and struts, is a firm but comfortable ride.

 

[oldstv]

Mine are non coil overs. I wonder if the settings would be the same?

 

[genesmob]

I use 0 comp 3 rebound for street driving with bmr springs. Rides way better than stock and, in my opinion, better than the new s550.

 

[Joewee500]

Isn't 0 comp full stiff and the lower the rebound number the slower the shock wants to extend? I'm confused now. Mine feels like a softer ride and softer on the hit at 6c/14r vs 2c/12. I'm at a loss now.


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[RedVenom48]

0= soft
18= hard

So a shock set to 18c and 18r would be hard to compress the rod in and hard to pull the rod out.

Setting to zero = easiest to push in and easiest to pull

 

[Joewee500]

0= soft
18= hard

So a shock set to 18c and 18r would be hard to compress the rod in and hard to pull the rod out.

Setting to zero = easiest to push in and easiest to pull

Then I guess mine felt softer because the stiffer compression didn't let the drag springs bottom out. Lower than 6c has these soft hooker springs letting the car hit the bump stops. Thanks for the shock lesson


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[1st usa car]

Put on my new rear tires .... I will start to tinker with the settings.

 

[1st usa car]

Previous settings were 3c5r --- i noticed when I drove over some manhole covers that are about 3/4 of inch below the pavement -- the front of the car would feel it but the rears would feel nothing. I havent been able to push the car since I changed the settings to 3c6r but i drive over the same manhole covers daily --- Now I can feel the covers with the rear settings -- it is not extreme - just slightly less than the front like 80% --

Now, for roll racing -- how is the rear suppose to respond? Should I keep adding Rebound or go back to 5?

 

[SirShaun]

Previous settings were 3c5r --- i noticed when I drove over some manhole covers that are about 3/4 of inch below the pavement -- the front of the car would feel it but the rears would feel nothing. I havent been able to push the car since I changed the settings to 3c6r but i drive over the same manhole covers daily --- Now I can feel the covers with the rear settings -- it is not extreme - just slightly less than the front like 80% --

Now, for roll racing -- how is the rear suppose to respond? Should I keep adding Rebound or go back to 5?

We both are running rather stiff springs, and stock front struts. We aren't transferring much weight onto the rear tires. Hence why some guys above us are bottoming springs out at 6C, and we are okay at 3C. Our biggest concern is eating the hit with compression. I may even try as much as 2C/10R to see how it feels.

The higher the rebound you can comfortably run, the longer the rear stays "planted". You do not want a low rebound instantly unloading that downward force that's generating traction.

Rebound gets more serious, when you pair softer springs, and adjustable front struts. You set your front struts to stiff compression, soft rebound. This makes the front of the car come up really easy, but makes it hard for it come down. In return any shifting of weight gets focused to the back of the car, on to the tires, providing traction.

To get the most benefit from this, in the rear, you would undoubtedly want to run stiffer compression to withstand the weight transfer and not bottom out the spring/shock, and more rebound, as to not even let the car try to send the weight back to the front.

The reason your doing this is for traction. Simulate conditions and see what works best, but I think you are close to pretty damn good, considering stiff springs and stock struts.

 

[outlaw105w]

have single adjustable s on the front , should i tighten them up for street driving

 

[SirShaun]

have single adjustable s on the front , should i tighten them up for street driving

Eh, I'd probably just leave them soft and enjoy the low compression and the low rebound. Being single adjustable, most likely firming them up, firms both compression and rebound, which makes for great handling, not so much weight transfer.

Essentially your front end is coming up easy, and going back down easy. Double adjustables would allow you to make coming back down harder, keeping the nose up longer.

It's probably better than stock and you can take advantage of them by running more rebound in the rear.

We essentially want as much transfer to the rear tires at once, that we can get, without maxing out the range of the shock/spring ,when talking about straight line racing.

 

[SirShaun]

Since we have stick cars, we use a lot more range, than autos. Regardless of spring rates, suspension mods, we are all chasing the below.
[ ] = End of Range
| = Simulated Actual
Middle = At Rest Position.The point where Spring either extends or compresses.

Dig Drag Race (6C 12R for example)
1st Gear Launch (Not maxing out the compression but utilizing as much range as possible)
[-|-------|---------]

Grabbing 2nd Gear (Stiff Rebound = Slow return to middle)
[---|-----|---------]

3rd Gear
[-----|---|---------]
etc.... Should produce traction all the way to the stripe.

(2C 12R for example)
Roll racing, you can have your 2nd/3rd gear looking like 1st gear launch.
3rd Gear Stomp
[-|-------|---------]

4th Gear (Stiff Rebound = Slow Return to Middle)
[----|----|---------]

A Soft Rebound, could have you going past the middle, causing some bounce, wasted energy, and loss of traction.
[-|--------------|--]

We will probably hit negative returns at some point on high rebound, as with a stick car you need to recompress, every gear, if you need the traction.

 

[SirShaun]

Breaking down this video, and understanding what this car needs, I feel could help us all. This will give you an idea of what your car is naturally wanting to do.

I get the feeling this car needs higher compression, and a higher rebound. You see on the hit, the car appears to bottom out, unloads really easily. Causing some bounce. Every gear the car is unloading pretty quick. Breakage or unloading mid track is what causes those videos of cars just half way down the track going oh shit wall. Probably quite a few mustang memes as well.

Car went 13.06 @105.9 w/1.86 60ft in the video.
" The car has a JLT Cold Air, FRPP GT500 TB, JBA Off-Road XPipe, 3inch Stainless Catback, Steeda, TriAxis Shifter, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, BMR Camber Bolts and Adjustable Panhard bar, and a CRT Performance Custom Tune when the video was shot. It now has BMR LCA's, Strange single adjustable shocks, Relocation Brackets, Panhard Brace, BMR Safety Loop, 3inch Wheel Studs, and FRPP 4.10 gears in it now. The car has gone 12.701 @ 107.91. "

 

[1st usa car]

3C6R - Finally had a dry day and some sunshine -- mid 80's. 2nd gear: I got into boost for the very first time. The car handled very well and I must have been near max boost because it was screaming and pulling like a rocket. I am pretty happy. Tires are still new less than 100 miles and they were not warmed up. MT 305 super street