Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
New Edge Cobras
Viking coilovers
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="redzaku" data-source="post: 16121986" data-attributes="member: 192027"><p>Alright Finally got these in and boy is it a difference!</p><p></p><p>So for anyone looking to do it the install it took me 6 hours to remove the both shocks and springs and install the viking coil overs in my driveway no garage. I am no expert some people might even think I'm a car retard. So whoever is looking to buy these and wondering if you could install them yourself YES shit it might even take you shorter I might of done it the long way arounds beats me.</p><p>The only tools I had to buy average joe might not have is.</p><p>-retaining ring pliers: The retaining ring pliers are used to lock in the eyelet at the bottom of the coil over</p><p>-spring compressor: spring compressor to well compressor the spring.</p><p>Each side only has 4 bolts/nuts to detach:</p><p>1-Lower control arm bolt/nut that connects to the knuckle ( the bottom of where the rotor sits)</p><p>2- the sway bar end link that connected to sway bar which you can take off with a 7mm to hold the endlink and a 15 mm to hold the nut.</p><p>3-bolt/nut holding the strut to the control arm</p><p>4-the nut in the trunk</p><p></p><p>That big round thing that looks like a spacer and your thinking what the heck is this for? its to put between the coil over and lower control arm so you have space to adjust the rebound and compression.</p><p></p><p>what this hollow sleeve looking thing? It the put in the lower mounting eyelet so the provided bolt doesn't have any play.</p><p></p><p>I also found it easier to put the locking ring and spring perch on first with anti-seize then put them on the strut then put anti-seize on the threads on the strut after. </p><p> </p><p>How long do they go? I don't know I didn't measure before I put them on. but with 13 threads left to going the lowest I'm at 2 womenly finger gap on 18 inch rims and 45 sidewall. </p><p> </p><p>Did it make me fast? Beats me I didn't go to the track before and after, but I know I have more traction before coil overs when I was in second gear low speed and floored it would cause traction control to come on normal weather. In raining weather doing the same thing with coil overs on didn't break traction.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="redzaku, post: 16121986, member: 192027"] Alright Finally got these in and boy is it a difference! So for anyone looking to do it the install it took me 6 hours to remove the both shocks and springs and install the viking coil overs in my driveway no garage. I am no expert some people might even think I'm a car retard. So whoever is looking to buy these and wondering if you could install them yourself YES shit it might even take you shorter I might of done it the long way arounds beats me. The only tools I had to buy average joe might not have is. -retaining ring pliers: The retaining ring pliers are used to lock in the eyelet at the bottom of the coil over -spring compressor: spring compressor to well compressor the spring. Each side only has 4 bolts/nuts to detach: 1-Lower control arm bolt/nut that connects to the knuckle ( the bottom of where the rotor sits) 2- the sway bar end link that connected to sway bar which you can take off with a 7mm to hold the endlink and a 15 mm to hold the nut. 3-bolt/nut holding the strut to the control arm 4-the nut in the trunk That big round thing that looks like a spacer and your thinking what the heck is this for? its to put between the coil over and lower control arm so you have space to adjust the rebound and compression. what this hollow sleeve looking thing? It the put in the lower mounting eyelet so the provided bolt doesn't have any play. I also found it easier to put the locking ring and spring perch on first with anti-seize then put them on the strut then put anti-seize on the threads on the strut after. How long do they go? I don't know I didn't measure before I put them on. but with 13 threads left to going the lowest I'm at 2 womenly finger gap on 18 inch rims and 45 sidewall. Did it make me fast? Beats me I didn't go to the track before and after, but I know I have more traction before coil overs when I was in second gear low speed and floored it would cause traction control to come on normal weather. In raining weather doing the same thing with coil overs on didn't break traction. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
New Edge Cobras
Viking coilovers
Top