Valve seals. Live with it?

po-po 5.0

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How much decel oil consumption do you live with to avoid the onnerous task of either replacing valve seals with the motor in place or building a new motor? My car has about 90k on the clock, and it sucks enough oil that I can smell it on decel (no cats), but not enough that I'm puffing. I do get a tiny puff on cold start. I'm thinking about throwing a procharger on the car, but instead should I build a motor? I'm of the mind that "all 4vs do this, just deal with it" as this isn't my first one, but figured I'd ask the larger audience.
 

RX1Cobra

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Do you have a catch can? If not start there. I don't think its the seals... The oil is sucked into the intake by the pcv system.
 
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mr-proper

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its the seals, catch can will do crap.
i wouldn't worry about it until it uses a lot of oil between changes (1quart of 800miles).
cost about 1600bucks at a performance shop.
 

01yellercobra

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If you're looking at boost I'd do the motor first. Better to be safe. And if you do a full long block you can get a few bucks for your running engine.
 

copermn

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1600 at a shop to change the valve seals? holy ****

I spent like 700 on a full rebuild of my heads, including 5 angle valve job and new valve seals at a very reputable shop. Or does that 1600 include more than what I'm being told?
 

po-po 5.0

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1600 at a shop to change the valve seals? holy ****

I spent like 700 on a full rebuild of my heads, including 5 angle valve job and new valve seals at a very reputable shop. Or does that 1600 include more than what I'm being told?


That's what it cost to do with the motor still in the car. It's a massive, massive PITA.
 

01yellercobra

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That price doesn't surprise me at all. I did valve springs on a buddies 2v. After the first two springs we pulled the engine out.
 

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