Valve lash adjuster replacement

[ZOMBEAST]

What's the level of difficulty in changing out the valve lash adjusters? Car exhibits a sporadic tick when engine is hot on a really hot day. I think it may be one or more valve lash adjusters on drivers side. I've heard the valve cover is tough to get off. I have the BMR K with lower engine height. Not sure if that would make much of a difference.

 

[buddha93]

My sporadic tick ended up being a bad plug. Of course this was after I replaced all the valve lashers on the drivers side.

Not sure your level of wrenching expertise, but even being an old pushrod guy, it wasn't overly complelicated, more of a PITA with the valve cover. The lowered engine may or may not help you...........can't say for sure. Plan on an entire weekend taking your time.

 

[Robert M]

What's the level of difficulty in changing out the valve lash adjusters? Car exhibits a sporadic tick when engine is hot on a really hot day. I think it may be one or more valve lash adjusters on drivers side. I've heard the valve cover is tough to get off. I have the BMR K with lower engine height. Not sure if that would make much of a difference.

A GT500 owner on another forum (maybe GT500.com) was having this same ticking issue. If I remember correctly he had to move his master cyl. or possible both master cyl. and brake booster as an assy. toward the fender to remove his drivers side valve cover with the oem K-member.

I think he was able to get the cover off and replaced the part(s) you are talking about at the back end of the follower, I believe they are hydraulic so they self adjust within their specifications, like a hydraulic lifter? I am not positive, but I believe he still experienced ticking once he put it all back together with new lash adjusters.......

R

 

[buddha93]

May have been me.

It's why I suggest putting in a set of plugs on that side that's exibiting the tick. Mine was drivers side, very noticable and able to pinpoin the side it was coming from.

 

[Robert M]

May have been me.

It's why I suggest putting in a set of plugs on that side that's exibiting the tick. Mine was drivers side, very noticable and able to pinpoin the side it was coming from.

Yes, it would be sad to pull all of that other stuff apart and the ticking still be there when you are done!!

R

 

[buddha93]

Totally went too deep on it, just never had a tick that mechanical sounding before and did some research and seemed to be the cause. Live an learn.

 

[mhunsr]

Do you have LTHs? A tick can be caused from header bolts needing tightened.

 

[Robert M]

The thing that makes me cringe is a GT500 owner showing off their GT500 on a forum with a Cold engine rev................The oem oil for the GT500 is 5W-50.........5W is sewing machine oil weight when our oil is Cold, I see owners doing it quite often, jumping in their Cold GT500 and doing revs to impress someone (I guess???). The weight of the GT500 multi-weight oil does not thicken until it is Hot when the polimers (additives) thicken to 50 (50W)................5W (when Cold) is Wayyyyyy to thin to be revving a GT500 engine, but I see it happen quite often..............and for what???? You can expect ticking and other engine issues when sewing machine 5W is lubricating your constent Cold revs.....

R

 

[2011 gtcs]

Once you have the valve covers off you can use a spring compressor tool to remove the rocker arms to get to the lash adjusters out. I did it on my 08 GT500, it's not hard, just be careful.

4V Valve Spring Compressor 303-452 T93P-6565-A T93P-6565-AR

4V Valve Spring Compressor 303-452 T93P-6565-A T93P-6565-AR

www.freedomracing.com

 

[buddha93]

Once you have the valve covers off you can use a spring compressor tool to remove the rocker arms to get to the lash adjusters out. I did it on my 08 GT500, it's not hard, just be careful.

4V Valve Spring Compressor 303-452 T93P-6565-A T93P-6565-AR

4V Valve Spring Compressor 303-452 T93P-6565-A T93P-6565-AR

www.freedomracing.com

Same tool I used, worked well. The lasher replacement was the easy part compared to getting the cover off.

 

[Robert M]

I know it is not a big performance upgrade (actually I have no idea what the upgrade is), but if I were to go though all of this, I would install a fully roller valvetrain.......



Fully rollerized is better that push and slide at the valve tip......BUT, it is not cheap......

R

 

[ZOMBEAST]

Thanks for all the responses. I'll go with the plugs first and then check the header bolts.

 

[buddha93]

If it's intermittent, it's not going to be a header leak. If you can pin it down to a side, simply swap them over to the other side and see if it follows. My car:


Was like somebody smacking 2 marbles together, very metal on metal valvetrain-like noise.

 

[ZOMBEAST]

If it's intermittent, it's not going to be a header leak. If you can pin it down to a side, simply swap them over to the other side and see if it follows. My car:


Was like somebody smacking 2 marbles together, very metal on metal valvetrain-like noise.

Very similar to what I'm experiencing, but much more faint, and more off than on.

 

[enormous]

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary.

 

[buddha93]

Not the best video, but crank up the volume, and you can hear it. It was a dead ringer for another memebers car"

 

[ZOMBEAST]

My sporadic tick ended up being a bad plug. Of course this was after I replaced all the valve lashers on the drivers side.

Turns out it was the plugs just as you stated.

I've been using Brisk GR12YS gapped at .027" and exclusively running VP MS103 because I'm at about 22lbs boost.

Plugs had about 1500 miles on them. I'm not sure if changing fuel, plug type, gap, or heat range would change how long before they would need changing.

Car only has about 22k miles on it and I've only had it out about a dozen times in the past two years.