Upgrading Factory Stereo Without Replacing Headunit? [Technical Question]

[johnny3gears]

So in my last mustang I was totally fine changing the headunit. I used A JBL 4 way amp to power a 12" JL sub and my 5x7 JBL front coaxes. The pioneer headunit powered my rears and door subs. The headunit could control high and low pass filters, advanced EQ settings, and bass control for the sub indepedently. It was fantastic.

In my 2011 with the electronics package, I have so much crap linked to it that I won't change the head unit. Now, if I add an amp and all that I don't think it's going to sound much better since I can't control what speakers are seeing what frequencies through the filters, etc.

Has anyone been able to add this functionality while keeping the factory head unit?

 

[TheVikingRL]

There are lots of option, question is how far down the hole do you really want to go? The factory 5x7's are powered off of your head unit. Since it appears you have the premium you also have 1.2 ohm, dvc door subs powered off a separate amp. Replacing the door subs/amp is a good option and just swap in some decent aftermarket 5x7's powered off the factory HU. You could also add a trunk sub easily as well. It's not perfect but still a huge upgrade over stock. Or, you can try implement one of the many summing devices available to collect all the high level signals and output a single (or split) preamp signal. Again, how far do you really want to take it? I've done all of this and then some so let me know what you're interested in and I can try to provide the necessary details.

IMO, just adding an amp to up the 5x7 volume won't do you much good at all.

 

[jun]

On my 2003 Gt also with the Premium package, I just replaced the front speakers with Pioneer 5x7 and added a JL Audio Stealthbox sub powered by a JL Audio mono amp. It sounds great to me.

 

[johnny3gears]

Thanks, man. I realize like everything you can go as big or little as you want, but the ability to direct which speakers "see" certain frequencies, a good EQ, and a quick bass boost is what I'm looking for.

I'm looking to add amplification to the door subs, a separate sub, and the front speakers. Still deciding whether I want to go shallow mount for the extra sub since I had good success with that in the past for hard rock/metal. This and rap is what my system will be setup for mainly.

From what I've read and my understanding of how subs work, upgrading the door subs probably isn't cost effective since they don't have enough air space behind them to produce a good amount of bass so I will probably just increase the amplification to them then add an amp that will power the front speakers and TBD sub. Probably somewhere in the 250RMS range (good quality though).

Thoughts on how to do all that with good but not cheap equipment?

 

[TheVikingRL]

Thanks, man. I realize like everything you can go as big or little as you want, but the ability to direct which speakers "see" certain frequencies, a good EQ, and a quick bass boost is what I'm looking for.

I'm looking to add amplification to the door subs, a separate sub, and the front speakers. Still deciding whether I want to go shallow mount for the extra sub since I had good success with that in the past for hard rock/metal. This and rap is what my system will be setup for mainly.

From what I've read and my understanding of how subs work, upgrading the door subs probably isn't cost effective since they don't have enough air space behind them to produce a good amount of bass so I will probably just increase the amplification to them then add an amp that will power the front speakers and TBD sub. Probably somewhere in the 250RMS range (good quality though).

Thoughts on how to do all that with good but not cheap equipment?

Honestly, it's probably not worth you trying to get complete control over the crossover frequencies. There is a way to reprogram your stock HU to output a flat (no EQ) speaker-level output and even a balanced line level signal. But you would need a Ford resource to reprogram the radio for you, and good luck finding one with the will and knowledge to do it. An easier route is to sum everything with something like an DQ61, but even takes some effort to set up properly. There is plenty to be gained just by replacing the door subs and adding a new amp. A lot of effort went into the door sub enclosure and it shows. You won't likely be disappointed. The downside is it does take some time, effort, and money to replace everything.

Here are some old posts with various detail on the door sub upgrade:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?894034-2013-Door-speaker-upgrades
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?908863-Best-stock-replacement-speakers/page2

I have another pair of ZR800's in the rear deck in place of the factory speakers running free-air. Plenty of room under the rear deck to mount amps as long as you buy something reasonably compact. If you really want to go full on with the sub then install something like a Stealthbox in the truck as well.

 

[johnny3gears]

Have any suggestions for door subs that aren't 230 a pop? Lol

Secondly, I almost exclusively listen to siriusXM. Do they broadcast a good enough signal to take advantage of the upgraded equipment?

 

[TheVikingRL]

You can use the these, but they are not DVC so you will loose some volume. And the grills are kind of ugly IMO.
http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/ka-8-woofer.htm

Can't swear these would fit, but a possibility. Especially since it's DVC 2ohm.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3sd2-8

Regarding the SQ, yes/no. It's not going to be worth going all out. But I would certainly start with the door 5x7's. Forget the aftermarket amp for these speakers, just replace them with something decent. Then decide on a door or trunk sub upgrade. Truck is easier, but less SQ. But more boom. But less accurate.

So much of this is subjective it's hard to give any one right answer.

 

[noldevin]

If you do replace the 5x7s, make sure you get something with a lower impedance, I believe the stock ones are less than 2 ohms so 4ohm speakers will be very quiet. Infinity speakers are a popular drop-in replacement because of this. You'll also want low-mid wattage speakers with high sensitivity. The stereo doesn't put out the watts needed for good sound out of the higher wattage speakers.
I've also heard a few people saying that using a better amp with the factory door subs dramatically improved their performance and the speakers didn't seem to mind the extra wattage.

 

[TheVikingRL]

If you do replace the 5x7s, make sure you get something with a lower impedance, I believe the stock ones are less than 2 ohms so 4ohm speakers will be very quiet. Infinity speakers are a popular drop-in replacement because of this. You'll also want low-mid wattage speakers with high sensitivity. The stereo doesn't put out the watts needed for good sound out of the higher wattage speakers.
I've also heard a few people saying that using a better amp with the factory door subs dramatically improved their performance and the speakers didn't seem to mind the extra wattage.

My 5x7's were all 4ohm. Front's are 2 way, and not very substantial. Rears are a whizzer cone deal but a much heavier speaker/magnet which I assume is to handle low frequencies better. Neither are very good at much of anything.

 

[noldevin]

Ah my mistake. However the Infinity speakers are 3ohm which will give you some extra volume while still being safe on the factory equipment. I have a friend with a 2013 base gt that upgraded to 4ohm speakers and complained he had to crank the volume much higher than before (he has since upgraded to a new head unit and no longer has this complaint).

My 5x7's were all 4ohm. Front's are 2 way, and not very substantial. Rears are a whizzer cone deal but a much heavier speaker/magnet which I assume is to handle low frequencies better. Neither are very good at much of anything.

 

[evil281]

What's the best option for a base non premium package with sync? I also do not want to deal with changing the headunit but I need at least a little better quality sound.

 

[huben94]

Hello,

So I am the process of trying to get the most out of the factory head unit, I have replaced all the speakers except the front door subs using the LC7i. Still not to happy with the sound, the preamp sub output of the factory HU is very weak. So even though it's better that the factory setup it's still not doing it for me. I will be replacing the HU soon, but I gave the factory HU a shot.

 

[johnny3gears]

I'm fairly certain that just cleans the signal to send to an amp. Have you added an additonal amp?

 

[Bgoins]

What's the best option for a base non premium package with sync? I also do not want to deal with changing the headunit but I need at least a little better quality sound.

I have the absolute base stereo setup. Replaced the door speakers with some Infinity 5x7, put some subs/amp in the trunk, sounds pretty freakin good to me for not too much investment.

 

[TheVikingRL]

Doing a little reading, they definitely switched to a 2ohm 5 1/4 component set on the 2013-2014 with the Premium sound (as noldevin mentioned). Base models still use a 5x7 speaker, and I believe it's 4 ohm. Would certainly recommend replacing factory component with another 2 ohm component set set but will likely require a minor amount of work to mount everything properly(crossover, tweeter, etc). The 6x8/5x7 swap is usually pretty straightforward install with some Metra speaker wire adapters. Either way, the main speakers is where I'd start in most cases.

If you really want to go cheap/stealth on the build I'd honestly look into replacing the rear deck speakers with any decent 6x8 and crossing them over for just bass frequencies off a separate amp. Not as good as a bigger trunk sub setup, but certainly cheaper and with some good power it would probably hit harder than most would expect.

 

[TheVikingRL]

Hello,

So I am the process of trying to get the most out of the factory head unit, I have replaced all the speakers except the front door subs using the LC7i. Still not to happy with the sound, the preamp sub output of the factory HU is very weak. So even though it's better that the factory setup it's still not doing it for me. I will be replacing the HU soon, but I gave the factory HU a shot.

Yep, it's a very weak preamp signal. I had the same issue until I added in a line driver to up the signal. I used a AC Matrix Plus but they also have a 2 channel unit called the Overdrive Plus. It made in the difference in the world on my setup.

 

[noldevin]

From what I've seen the easiest way to upgrade the fronts in a premium with the component set, is to get the brackets from a base car and use a 5x7. I'm sure with some custom fabrication you could get a component set mounted in there, but if you're keeping the stock stereo it probably won't make enough difference to be worth it.

 

[johnny3gears]

What's the difference in audiocontrol's different units like the Lc7i vs matrix?

 

[J_Roc]

I've used a Clarion EQS746 mounted under the dash before in a car that I didn't want to change the headunit. The Clarion can take 2 sources (RCA), and can output via RCA to sub, front speakers, and rear speakers. There is only a 60hz or 90hz selectable LPF for the sub though. There is a separate sub volume pot and a 7-band graphic equalizer. Not bad for $50

 

[J_Roc]

Re-read some of the thread...

The Clarion really works best if you have amps to power all your speakers. It kind of works as a "pre-amp". But you still wouldn't have frequency response control over each individual speaker.

The AudioControl LC7i that someone mentioned earlier looks pretty cool too