Upgrade HCI or just get Blowzilla 2.1

RydeOn

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[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEWB0oqbdfo"]YouTube - 5.0 Mustang engine with a knock sensor[/nomedia]
 

buddha93

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was he able to tune it to where if the meth ran out and he didnt know it, the computer would back out timing?? im not too familar with capabilities of the setup, i wouldnt want to run out and blow my motor up haha.

Yep.....pretty slick actually.

We used an AEM trunk mount kit, since this is Bob's preferred meth kit and he's a dealer for them. It uses a controller to regulate the flow, rather than on Hobbs switch.

In order to integrate a fail-safe in case the meth ran out, or quit working all together, Bob had us move the factory ACT sensor into the blower discharge tube, after the meth nozzle. You could watch on the SCT tuning software,the meth activate and the inlet temps drop to around 85 degrees......really cool. The fail-safe works when it sees the inlet temps begin to rise while under boost/WOT, pulling timing and adding fuel.

Jump over on the Corral and talk to Micheal Plummer about the Snow stuff if you want to stick their product. He's a dealer and is always very helpful.
 

TX93Cobra

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I dnt know who is the beat or preferred Just picked the only kit I knew of. Sounds more complicated then it is lol
 

buddha93

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I dnt know who is the beat or preferred Just picked the only kit I knew of. Sounds more complicated then it is lol

Snow is probably one of the more popular with the Mustang crowd, as that's where he started about 10 years ago and has since branched out to just about every make and model, with bigger and badder products over the years.

I will say, I was very impressed with the features and quality of the AEM kit. With the way it's set up on my buddies car, it's basically idiot proof.

I bought a very basic AIS kit that only runs off a Hobbs switch. I have it set around 7 psi with a single nozzle running into the discharge tube. It was cheap, but after seeing the AEM, I wish I would have just bought the AEM. I've not yet tuned it with the meth, and is in place for more a safety margin in the summer months on pump gas. I've since bought a wideband, so if I get some time this year, I need to dial in a tune for more power.
 
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Kevins89notch

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One thing not brought up is, the stock block can only handle so much power before it splits. They say when your near 500rwhp, your close to max.

550rwhp is more closer to the number I've sene fail before, and even then, its the high RPMs that kill it.

Other thoughts, HCI/stroker VS blower. What is more dependable? Is a blower set up a pain in the ass to maintain?

Try bolting on H/C/I and getting just shy of 26mpg on the interstate. I know my 5.0 with a vortech could. :)

Maintenance, what maintenance? I drove my 89 from IL to FL, and used it as my sole, 100% true daily driver for about 15 months or so. I had 4 or so oil changes done at a shop, and that was it. I never even popped the hood myself in that time period.

With a NA car seems like there is less to go wrong.

How about the head gaskets not sealing properly? Maybe the intake gasket leaks. Were the rockers adjusted properly? Were the pushrods the proper length? How is the idle?

Just saying.

They say with HCI the computer should learn the new setup with out a tune, true or not? A blower car wont learn the new setup as well?

Huh? Either setup needs to be tuned for max HP. However it is easier to backyard tune a blower setup. I can adjust the fuel pressure, lock the timing, and put down 340rwhp is a S-Trim on a 5.0 anyday. With a H/C/I you wouldn't see 300rwhp.

What is the up/down side to blower, VS up/down side to NA?

I think I've covered that pretty well.
 

RydeOn

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It does take determination though to hit 500rwhp. Its not like you are going to put on a KB and suddenly produce 500hp. Wont happen just by slapping on the biggest HCI you can find either. If you are choosing between a supercharger or an HCI package you will get a nice gain either way. Like kevin said you are looking at about 300 with the top end kit and 340 with a blower setup. Of course you can add more later its not like you are stuck with a blower and cant add heads down the road.

Without further mods being done Id have to say the 93 cobra is pretty well suited out of the box for boost compared to an NA setup. The compression is friendly, the heads are decent but heavy, rockers already installed, nice intake, injectors not too small, etc Just slap on some boost and minor mods will go a long way. Port the stock stuff. Its pretty cheap that way.

Getting AFR 165s its almost like you should have gotten the 185s and a forged stroker and made some decent power in the end. Its all in what you want but hopefully we can let you know what to expect and make a decision easier.
 
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buddha93

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It does take determination though to hit 500rwhp. Its not like you are going to put on a KB and suddenly produce 500hp. Wont happen just by slapping on the biggest HCI you can find either. If you are choosing between a supercharger or an HCI package you will get a nice gain either way. Like kevin said you are looking at about 300 with the top end kit and 340 with a blower setup. Of course you can add more later its not like you are stuck with a blower and cant add heads down the road.

Without further mods being done Id have to say the 93 cobra is pretty well suited out of the box for boost compared to an NA setup. The compression is friendly, the heads are decent but heavy, rockers already installed, nice intake, injectors not too small, etc Just slap on some boost and minor mods will go a long way. Port the stock stuff. Its pretty cheap that way.

Getting AFR 165s its almost like you should have gotten the 185s and a forged stroker and made some decent power in the end. Its all in what you want but hopefully we can let you know what to expect and make a decision easier.

I understand what you saying, but anymore you can pretty much make 500rwhp without trying very hard at all. The aftermarket parts are abundent, and it's only a phone call away with a credit card in hand.

I replied earlier to my buddies SI setup that made just shy of 500rwhp, only because it had an AFM NA cam in it......would have made more with the stock cam. His setup is a stock bottom end, TFS topend kit, and the supporting fuel mods. The blower is pullied for 10psi, made 11 with a UPR power pipe. It cost a chunk of change, but it's just all bolt-on stuff.


To the OP, he's only looking for a mid 12 car on street tires from what I gather, so 400rwhp will get him there easily without breaking the bank.
 

Kevins89notch

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It does take determination though to hit 500rwhp.

My above dyno was with a factory 1989 clutch, no tune, and as already mentioned, so rich it was off the chart. With a clutch, and a tune, I could easily have 500 to the wheels. These are all out of the box parts, no custom cam, no ported heads, etc.
 

RydeOn

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All im saying is to hit 500 to the wheels you will be tearing apart the long block. If 400 is the goal here then you can avoid getting into the engine. 500 you will be tearing the engine halfway apart.

Nice numbers Kevin but (not to take away from your setup) you ran the edelbrock top end. My point was in relation to OPs either or scenario (blown stock cobra longblock vs HCI), hitting 500 would not be possible but 350 is definetly feasible. I know you older members have been around understand this but there are newer members on the forums who could mistakenly expect a blower to put 500hp after install. It wont happen. Somebody in this thread already expected a KB to make much more than 330 out of the box, however that is right on where it should be. Being realistic you should expect the mid 300 after putting a blower on a cobra.
 
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mustangmanjeff

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I would suggest doing h/c/i 1st then do the blower,so you can build up the car,because are 5.0 pushrods +kb suck, the kb is only good on the 2valve and 4 valve modular motors, the twin screw blowers/ roots blowers make horrible numbers on are 5.0 cars, esp when they only offer a small 1.5-2.1kb and no intercooler setup, people have alot of heatsoak overheating car running to hot issues to even get good times and numbers out of them,


join sn95forums.com and look up the horrible numbers alot of guys have made with kb on a otherwise stock pushrod 5.0 with kb,ive seen anywhere from 270-340rwhp which is very pathetic for a supercharged 5.0 v8.hell my car all motor 5.0 makes same or more hp then most guys running a kb on a stock 5.0 setup,esp if its 5-8psi

I have even seen h/c/i+kb and 12psi only make like 370-400rwhp.so I would suggest h/c/i or stroker h/c/i or do a vortech or procharger with h/c/i and make 400-500rwhp alot easier.
 
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red95gts

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400rwhp will get him there easily without breaking the bank.

...Or the block! :)

I've been considering the same thing. The Si trim Vortechs require no hole in the oil pan and look to be a breeze to install. I've done the naturally aspirated route and built a turbo car - I'm ready for something simple that doesn't require me to hack the car up.

I do like the torque curve of the KB, but it seems like overall power production is limited. Anyone know why they do so well on the mod motors but apparently not so well on the pushrod motors?
 

mustangmanjeff

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I would suggest doing h/c/i 1st then do the blower,so you can build up the car,because are 5.0 pushrods +kb suck, the kb is only good on the 2valve and 4 valve modular motors, the twin screw blowers/ roots blowers make horrible numbers on are 5.0 cars, esp when they only offer a small 1.5-2.1kb and no intercooler setup, people have alot of heatsoak overheating car running to hot issues to even get good times and numbers out of them,


join sn95forums.com and look up the horrible numbers alot of guys have made with kb on a otherwise stock pushrod 5.0 with kb,ive seen anywhere from 270-340rwhp which is very pathetic for a supercharged 5.0 v8.hell my car all motor 5.0 makes same or more hp then most guys running a kb on a stock 5.0 setup,esp if its 5-8psi

I have even seen h/c/i+kb and 12psi only make like 370-400rwhp.so I would suggest h/c/i or stroker h/c/i or do a vortech or procharger with h/c/i and make 400-500rwhp alot easier.

...Or the block! :)

I've been considering the same thing. The Si trim Vortechs require no hole in the oil pan and look to be a breeze to install. I've done the naturally aspirated route and built a turbo car - I'm ready for something simple that doesn't require me to hack the car up.

I do like the torque curve of the KB, but it seems like overall power production is limited. Anyone know why they do so well on the mod motors but apparently not so well on the pushrod motors?

:poke: Like I stated in my post before you, thats the reason why they suck on pushrods.


its due to the intake design of a modular vs a pushrod, and the fact that they only offer a 1.5-2.1 kb non intercooled ,for modulars thats entry level and they make 2.2.,2.4,2.6,2.8 etc and larger mamoth kb blower setups and intercooled like the eaton on the 03 cobra 4 valve, the kb on are pushrods are limited with the small blower and overheating issues and they make tons of torque and horrible hp and no traction due to instant power.


1. for 5.0 pushrod=small 1.5-2.1 kb only offered and no others offered by eaton,tvs,whipple or larger like they offer on mod motor 4 valve cars.


2. kb makes tons of torque and instant power but horrible horsepower on a pushrod car.

3. tons of instant torque and power in low rpm's = tons of tire shreading and no traction.

4. multiple blast with no intercooler setups for pushrods= overheating issues on pushrod cars.

1.its due to the intake design of a modular vs a pushrod,2. and the fact that they only offer a 1.5-2.1 kb non intercooled ,for modulars thats entry level and they make 2.2.,2.4,2.6,2.8 etc and larger mamoth kb blower setups and intercooled like the eaton on the 03 cobra 4 valve, the kb on are pushrods are limited with the small blower and overheating issues and they make tons of torque and horrible hp and no traction due to instant power.
 
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Kevins89notch

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All im saying is to hit 500 to the wheels you will be tearing apart the long block. If 400 is the goal here then you can avoid getting into the engine. 500 you will be tearing the engine halfway apart.

Nice numbers Kevin but (not to take away from your setup) you ran the edelbrock top end. My point was in relation to OPs either or scenario (blown stock cobra longblock vs HCI), hitting 500 would not be possible but 350 is definetly feasible. I know you older members have been around understand this but there are newer members on the forums who could mistakenly expect a blower to put 500hp after install. It wont happen. Somebody in this thread already expected a KB to make much more than 330 out of the box, however that is right on where it should be. Being realistic you should expect the mid 300 after putting a blower on a cobra.

Ok, then I fully agree with you. :beer:
 

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